Introducing New Chickens: Using the “See but don’t touch” Method

By Mountain Peeps · Jun 5, 2015 · Updated May 22, 2016 · ·
  1. Mountain Peeps
    Introducing New Chickens: Using the “See but don’t touch” Method


    Chicken keeping is addicting. Along the road of your own chicken raising adventure, you are bound to add new chickens to your flock. This cannot and should not be taken lightly. When new chickens are introduced to an old flock that already has an established pecking order, everything will be disrupted and chaos will flow out of the chicken coop. If they appear in the old flock suddenly, the new chickens will be attacked and bullied until they either leave or are killed.

    Since flocks have been added to so much over the years, people have come up with a very effective method of introducing new chickens to an already established flock. This is known as the “see but don’t touch” method. I’ve used it and found it to be VERY effective and worthwhile. This article will explain thoroughly how to introduce new flock members to each other successfully, using this method.

    What it is and How it Works
    The “see but don’t touch” method involves placing a barrier in-between the two groups of chickens so they can’t reach other and have physical contact, but can still see and “meet” one another. If your chickens are kept in a run, then all you have to do is put chicken wire in the middle to separate the two sides from each other. If your flock free ranges, then make a little cage/run area for the new birds to be in that is within the free ranging land of the other chickens. The barrier should be kept in between them for a number of days. (1-2 weeks is preferable.) Over this time, the chickens will have familiarized themselves enough so that they recognize each other. After the certain amount of time is up and the chickens seem ready to be together, you can remove the barrier and let them mix.

    Important Tips

    •QUANRANTINE THE NEW BIRDS BEFORE INTRODCING! You don’t want to risk spreading a disease to all of your birds, old or new.

    •Know that there WILL be fighting no matter what. It’s the only way that the new pecking order will be established.

    •Make sure you provide the flock with extra feeders and waterers. Bossy chickens will hog feeders and waterers on purpose resulting in the other birds being starved and dehydrated.

    •Know that it will probably be hectic and stressful in the chicken yard for a couple months.

    •Try and have the first few meetings out in the yard where they can free range. This will insure that the area is neutral and that the chickens have plenty of room to roam and escape.

    •Provide hideaways in the areas that the introductions take place.

    Introduce more than one bird. It’s really hard on the one bird if she has to stand up for herself in another flock of many birds. It’s best if you can always try and introduce two or more chickens at a time.

    •Try and not break up fights unless absolutely necessary. Chickens need to work themselves out and establish the new pecking order. Although hard to watch, fights are imperative. Interfere only if one chicken is being cornered, teamed up on, or bleeding.

    •Add distractions! Hanging cabbage or lettuce, throwing out some seeds, giving them a dirt bathing area and allowing them to free range are all ways to get their minds off each other and make them focus on other things.

    •Don’t expect any eggs to be laid during this time of stress.

    •If you have one chicken that is especially aggressive and won’t leave the others alone, you may want to isolate her for a couple days in her own little cage. Make sure she is still within the flock quarters so she won’t be treated as “new” when she returns. But hopefully the separation will calm her a bit.

    Introducing Roosters
    If you plan on introducing a new rooster to a flock of hens, know that the hens will probably not be pleased! It’s very hard, especially if the hens are not used to a rooster. Try and find a calm, gentle rooster to introduce to the flock. If your flock already has a rooster and you want another, take extra caution! Roosters HATE when another rooster comes along and interrupts their “ruling.” They will probably never truly accept one another and will always fight. (It’s best to raise roosters together if you want them to get along.)


    Introducing Younger Chickens (Pullets and Cockerels)
    Chicks need to be AT LEAST 8 weeks old before they can be introduced to adult chickens. And if you plan on introducing them using a different method besides the “see but don’t touch” they should be older (12-15 weeks). They may need to stay separated from the flock for a bit longer than the 1-2 weeks if they are 8 weeks old. Always watch their interactions with the adults closely since they will be smaller and less able to defend themselves.

    Q&A On Introducing New Chickens

    How long does it take on average for them all to be getting along smoothly?
    I found that mine were acting normally and getting along after it had been 2 full months; starting from the day they met.

    What do I do if this method of introducing doesn’t work?
    Try putting the new birds in the coop at night when it’s completely dark. (But only do this if they have already met each other AND if the flock has over 10 birds in it.) Otherwise, you may have to get rid of one group of chickens or try your own method.

    How long do the new birds have to be quarantined before I start introducing them?
    It’s recommended that the quarantine last for at least 2 weeks. If the birds don’t appear healthy, then hold off on introducing until they are completely back to health.


    Is it normal for a new chicken to become the “top bird” in the pecking order during this change?
    Yes, it’s very normal! That’s why it causes everyone to be stressed; they all have to learn where his or her new place is in the pecking order. A bird that used to be at the top might be bumped down to the middle while a bird that was at the bottom might move up. It all varies.

    Where do I put the new birds at night since they can’t be in the chicken coop with the rest of the flock?
    Either have another coop built for them or (depending on how many birds you have) use something like a large dog crate. If you are introducing young chickens then they can probably just go back in their brooder at night.

    Do breed and size matter when it comes to adding new chickens?
    Definitely! For example: if you have a flock of standard, black hens and you are thinking about adding some white bantams, think again! Not only will the old flock take advantage of the bantams’ small sizes but they will also attack them because they are a different color. (Yes, chickens can see in full color.) Or if you have a flock of Rhode Island Reds and are considering adding some Silkies or Polish chickens, stop here! Again, the size and different feather types will only encourage more pecking. I introduced a Speckled Sussex and a Buff Orpington to my flock of Buff Orpingtons and Easter Egger last year. The Speckled Sussex still gets picked on more than the Buff Orpington because she is smaller and of a different color. Always try and introduce new chickens that are the same size and color as your flock. (If you want different kinds of breeds, then start out by getting them all together from the start.)

    Does temperament matter as well?
    Yes. If you raise breeds more prone to aggressiveness and then want to add a gentle calm breed, there will be a lot of bullying.

    Is it really worth adding new chickens when there is SO much that can go wrong?
    In my opinion, yes it is. Chickens are fun to keep and if you have the time, space and energy for more birds, why not get more? If you introduce them correctly, they will get along like nothing ever changed...eventually! When I introduced my new pullets to my old hens, I was stressed and wondering if it was all worth it. But now they get along like long lost sisters. They dirt bathe together, eat together, sleep together and once in a while, I even catch them preening each others' feathers! Sure, there is a lot that can go wrong, but if you take your time and introduce them properly, it’ll all be worth it!

    Further Reading

    Special thanks to @TamingMaster for some of the pics.

    Good luck to all of you!

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Recent User Reviews

  1. D-Bar-B
    "Great information!"
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed May 8, 2019
  2. FWC2019
    "Nice intro."
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed May 5, 2019
    Thank you!
  3. mumofsix
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed May 4, 2019
    Love the see don't touch way to introduce. Some of My smaller ones got loose and into the older chicks area. All the older chicks are dark colored right away the big ones weemed to peck the California Whites on top of the head the little ones tried to run away.Thankfully I caught it and got Them out.going to move KINDLE_CAMERA_1554067122000.jpg Everyone into the meet and greet area this week.


    1. KINDLE_CAMERA_1554067146000.jpg


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  1. Chickengene
    I have five older hens, three of which seem to get along fine even though they were not raised together.i added twi more hens last summer that I raised and did your "see but no touch" method.
    Two of the older girls are fine with the new ladies, though they obviously get on their nerves occasionally. But the two new girls still constantly attach one of the older hens,.
    I now have four 10 week old pulletts and one cockeral that the twins constantly try to attack through the wire.
    Today I noticed, for the first time ever, my loner bullied hen that is normally so sweet, trying to attack the youngsters.
    The kids are BO and BB so pretty decent size at 10 weeks. So I am torn between getting them out of the small enclosed they are in, but leery about putting them in with the evil twins just yet. Since I free range, I am thinking of alternating days out twixt the big girls and the kids. Any thoughts pro or con to that ideal.
  2. Elfer
    Off topic, but what breed is that hen with the black head, neck and tail, and buff body?
  3. ChicKim062
    This is exactly what I am doing to introduce 2 new pullets to my older hens. The pullets are in a large dog crate, fenced in a small area, that shares a fence with the hens' yard and coop. The first day, bossy hen (Ramona) threw a fit :) Now, day 2, the hens are interested, but the constant crowing/squawking has stopped. Sunday, weather permitting, I will put them all in a neutral free range area and let them get acquainted. Glad to know I'm on the right track. Thanks for a great article!
  4. MykaMom
    I have been keeping chickens since 2008. I have always started by the look but dont touch method and havent lost one yet! This year, there's more chicks coming in than are already here, plus one(we may get a few more) is banty.

    I've always kept a mixed flock, but this is my first banty. Very sweetly, the bigger chicks(especially the barred rock) take turns 'mothering' the banty. I dont know if this will continue once they are in the coop and run.

    Should I get a couple more bantys now, before they're all out in the coop together?
  5. rwilliams296
    I have 4 chicks and 2 poults that I am getting ready to add to my existing flock of 7 chickens (one rooster and six hens). The newbies are 8 weeks old now and have been in a small coop inside the run of my large coop for about 3 weeks. Lots of looking but no touching, except last week when I accidentally failed to securely latch the outside door to the nesting boxes of the small coop one evening and woke up the next morning to find one of the chicks 'moseying' around in the main run with the adults. They weren't the least bit interested in her until I caused a scene by trying to catch her to put her back in the small coop, then the chasing and pecking began. Ugh. Anyways, the last time I added to my flock was last fall, with 4 four month old pullets. They were placed in the same small coop for about 3 weeks and the transition went pretty well. My concern is mostly with the poults. They are mostly white, Royal Palms. Both are hens, I think. Sweet, laid back. Plus they required a lot more attention during the brooding process. Would hate to lose them over the stress of being added to an adult chicken flock. Will they be OK?
  6. NoodlesMama
    Great article! I'm expecting 4 silkies and an easter egger in the fall and I plan to use this method to introduce them. After reading this I am a little worried honestly given the silkies will be so different. My current flock has 2 standard size chickens, a barred plymouth rock and a silver laced wyandotte, and 4 Bantams including a mottled cochin, porcelain d'uccle, mille fluer d'uccle, and a black frizzle cochin that did come out frizzled. With my flock already being so mixed would it really matter much that the silkies are so different when the time comes for meet and greet?
  7. Yuki
    What about free rangers to a a new captive space where no ranging is allowed because of predators
  8. Yuki
    What about free rangers to a a new captive space where no ranging is allowed because of predators
    1. ARchixMama
      I have used this method before in a captive space like you mention. I had a smaller portable cage I put the new chickens in that went inside the larger pen. This method really did help.
    2. Yuki
      I'll give it a shot
      ARchixMama likes this.
  9. N F C
    I've used this method for introducing new birds and found it works very well. Nice description on how to do this Sarah!
  10. Miss Lydia
    This works great for all poultry.
      N F C likes this.
  11. BlueHenDel
    Very helpful! :caf And those are some lovely birds! :love
      TamingMaster likes this.
  12. eggiefarmer
    Any advice on specific breeds that are known not to get along. I have a small flock of Hyline brown pullets( production egg layer) and want to add some chicks this spring.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
    1. Mountain Peeps
      I would recommend getting the same number of new birds as you do old so that neither side is slighted or has any advantage over the other.
      eggiefarmer likes this.
  13. silkie10
    This is really helpful! I've always had trouble adding new birds.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  14. ChickenLover200
    Nice article!
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  15. DianaMallory
    Good article, I have done this before and it was a pain in the bum! It took a lot of hard work on my part. Then I watched a video on it and this guy changed the coop when making the final step in moving them. He moved roost around, moved the nesting boxes added a few new features. Radical changes, then put them in together and with no problems. Two different flocks, thought they both were going into a new coop. Confused the birds and they didn't have time to think about newbies and fighting to busy checking out their new home. If I ever do this again I will try that. Added to what you said in your article.
  16. OilyChick
    Great info...especially about introducing 2 or more new hens to existing flock. Thanks for posting
  17. ChocolateMouse
    Chickenewbee, I have found that breaking up fights can be handy at times. I recently got 4 hens from the same breeder, two different colors, breeds and ages from two different pens (two of each) from the same breeder. I had one quarantine pen and the two pairs would not get along. The bigger, younger Australorps were getting picked on by the leghorns.
    The trick is, they will "behave" when you are there, but go back to scrabbling amongst themselves when you are not because while you're there, you are the top hen. When you're gone you're not anymore.
    My goal was to make the chickens think that it was universally bad to fight in quarantine. I tied a stick to a rope and fed it through the wire of the cage and into my window. If I heard them squabbling, I'd give the rope a quick tug and the stick would hit the outside of the cage wire and spook them. This worked really well and stopped the bullying very quickly.
    But if you don't have a way to make the hens think it's karmic justice disciplining them and that fighting = scary, then you might as well let them duke it out and keep a close eye on it. The last thing you want is them to think that you = scary instead of fighting = scary.
    1. BlueHenDel
      What a great idea! Also made me chuckle a bit... ;)
  18. Lamaremybabies
    This was great, thanks! I'll be adding two pullets to my current flock within the next few weeks so getting an idea of what to except is awesome.
  19. Kluk-Kluk
    Great article. The look but don't touch method is how I introduced my six young pullets to my established flock last summer. This summer I have chanced upon something even easier: I let my broody Japanese bantam hatch some eggs and raise the chicks. I tried to keep the mother and chicks separated from the flock inside a wire cage, but somehow the chicks got out. Next thing you know, the mother hen got out, and all of them were mingling with the flock like it was no big deal. The flock totally accepted the chicks! This is the second brood I'm raising this summer, and it is SO much easier to let the hen do the work and the little ones mingle than it was to raise day-olds in a brooder and incorporate them into the flock myself. Have others had this experience?
    1. Elfer
      I agree. As long as you have plenty of room for the mom and chicks to kinda isolate, and no strong bullies this has worked great for me. After Mom says "Taught you everything I know, you're on your own now", the youngsters established an area of their own outside ( I free range) Every time I have younguns now, they instinctively go to those same areas, which have a protective cedar and a kids playhouse with some other hawk distractions. After they get older, they mingle with the grownups in the front yard and eventually follow them to other areas. Do watch out if you have two or more broodies with chicks at the same time. I had 2 broodies with chicks separated but one chick got into the pen with the wrong mother and her chicks. That mother pecked her head until she (and I) thought she was dead. Fortunately, I saw her and scooped up the chick. Amazingly. after cleaning up and keeping inside for a week or 2, she was fine, though bald at first. Today, she's laying eggs, and just has a tiny scarred area where feathers don't grow that's barely noticable.
  20. truckguy
    I'm on day two of the on integrating them. so far it's not bad. but the two older ones are controlling the food and water and yes I have two areas for them to eat and drink. they are controlling the food near the new birds temporary coup.

    they have been in the yard as well and they are being territorial also. I guess this is expected for a short time. so far no bloodshed.
      BlueHenDel and jeepgrrl like this.
  21. jpfenimore
    Very helpful article. Thank you.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  22. zuluchicken
    There is nothing gross about this behavior. This is natural behaviour and instinct in the animal kingdom. This is one of the ways that a dominant hen will confirm her dominance over the other hen. I have seen this behaviour even amoungst cows here on the farm.
      Stiletto and jeepgrrl like this.
  23. Mountain Peeps
    @NapaChicknGal no, not necessarily. Dominate hens will mount other hens to show they're boss. Squatting from hens isn't just for roosters. It's also a sign of submission. Like dogs who lie down and show their belly to show you are the boss.
      AmaranthineAcres and jeepgrrl like this.
    1. BlueHenDel
      Sometimes my lowest on the pecking order "submits" to me. I'm like NO THANKS! :)
  24. NapaChicknGal
    I've noticed lately my Welsummer has "mounted" a couple girls; what's with that? A bisexual bird? Gross!
    1. EggSighted4Life
      Dominance behavior. I have a production red that does it to one of my Silkies, though I don't tolerate it as I won't have a hen balding another girl if I don't let my boys do it either. And my roosters do it do each other. Even my female dog will hump other dogs, even male. And I had to hump her to show her that I am the boss! Changed her demeanor for sure. Animals are different then people, doesn't make them bisexual. Agree that squatting is a sign of submission. :)
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  25. Lilyput
    Used this method in recent introduction of four new pullets to 4 existing adults (mixed breeds). Pullets were four weeks old and in a large dog cage within the run. Could see each other. At 8 weeks old, allowed pullets in the same run with adults. Pullets still sleep in their large dog cage at night. Also put out two sets of feeders and waterers. In about 2 weeks, I'll put pullets in the adult coop after hours and see how it goes. So far, free ranging I've had no problems at all.
      BlueHenDel and jeepgrrl like this.
  26. Mountain Peeps
    Thank you everyone else for the nice comments and good suggestions. :)
      BlueHenDel and jeepgrrl like this.
  27. Mountain Peeps
    @zuluchicken thanks for those helpful pointers. I've found RIRs to be very aggressive and hard to introduce to other birds as well. Good luck replacing them with the BOs. BOs are my favorite chicken breed!
      BlueHenDel and jeepgrrl like this.
  28. Mountain Peeps
    @A05951 That will be a bit harder to do since the debeaked hen is pretty defenseless. You might try putting pinless peepers on the other hens for a while as they get used to each other.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  29. Mountain Peeps
    @chickennewbee You don't want to break up the fights because it's the only way to sort out the new pecking order. If you are constantly interrupting them, they will just have to continue their fighting and make it last longer. It's hard to watch and will often be pretty brutal but it's a necssiy.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  30. zuluchicken
    This is just a general observation. I have found that my RIR's are the most aggressive birds in my flock. They don't mix well with the others, especially with the Buff Orpingtons and will forever be bullying the other birds. I intend to gradually replace them with more Buff Orpingtons which is a much more friendly breed and more accomodating towards new commers in the run.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  31. Dawneebird
    I have had my pullets in a tractor outside where th larger birds can see them. The Pullets are a leghorn and black astroulop and are 14 weeks. I hae RIR, Buff Orington, EE and a Plymouth rock. The RIR is broody so I am a little concerned about introducing them
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  32. zuluchicken
    This is a well written article and some good advice. I have been using this method for many years and found it to be very sucsesfull. Here is some other advice. Remember that fighting will take place no matter what you do. It is their natural way of sorting out the pecking order. Once a bird has been injured or blood has been drawn it will be killed.

    Keep a close eye on them but DO NOT TRY TO STOP THE FIGHTING!!! The way that I am dealing with this problem is by applying an oil based aerosol wound treatment for live stock. It is available from most vets and live stock shops. It has a strong odour and dark purple colour. It serves as a repellant and at the same time allow the wound to heal. Repeat the treatment on a daily basis for as long as what it takes for the wound to heal. The other chickens will immediatley stop terrorising this bird and it will givfe him/her a opportunity to recover.

    Don't worry too much about the purple stain of the body and feathers. It looks worse that what it realy is. It will go away all by itself after a few days after the treatement has stopped.
      BlueHenDel, jeepgrrl and nenebynature like this.
    1. EggSighted4Life
      That is NOT true. I have scuffles with bleeding combs and never a dead bird yet. I let scuffles happen. But if there is a relentless chase, I become the relentless chaser or provide a time out for the bully to cool their jets. I keep a stag pen with roosters in it. Anybody who becomes to big for their britches heads to freezer camp and the rest of the flock live happily and peacefully ever after.
      rwilliams296 likes this.
  33. A05951
    I'm down to one Bovan Brown production chicken that was debeaked when I adopted her. Any thoughts on adding beaked chickens to a debeaked chicken? She was at the top of the pecking order when her two flock mates were still alive.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  34. Sunsetlake
    I raise my chicks in their brooder until they are 4 weeks old, then move them to a dog cage in the coop for two more weeks so the new ones and old ones get to know each other. I open the cage doors when they are 6 weeks old. I prop the doors open just wide enough that the new ones can get back in their cage for protection, food, and water. So far I haven't had any issues. I think you can introduce chickens younger depending on the set up of your coop and run area. My chickens have a large coop and run, and a very large free range area too. But, the look don't touch method works well in any environment I think.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  35. chickenewbee
    This was a couple of months ago, and they haven't seemed to have any issues.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  36. chickenewbee
    I have a question. Why wouldn't you break up fights? I ask because I brought home a new pullet and used much the same technique I use with bringing new dogs in....the "see but don't touch", putting the new chickens in the coop when the old chickens were out ranging, so their scent would be in the coop, and then when I finally put them together I "pecked" any chicken that started puffing up and acting aggressive. They seemed to understand, adjusted very quickly, and all got along well in just a couple of days.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  37. Cebupete
    After they got along which was pretty soon, I would add another older hen..etc. etc.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  38. Cebupete
    I have raied chicks a couple of times and what I would do is introduce one of the older hens to the group of new hens. Has anyone else done this?
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  39. truckguy
    I just picked 3 more RIR and I have 2 other RIR that are about 2.5 years old. the new ones are about 3 to 3.5 months old. they have their own area but can be seen by my other RIR.

    they have been at my house for about a week now. I have read that 30 days is what should be done to reading here 2 weeks before introduction. so far the 3 new RIR are doing well. very curious and would love to roam the yard. my other 2 RIR free range all day.

    the new birds I will wait on free ranging since my dogs are used to them yet. the other 2 they don't even care.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  40. jakenhyde
    I've used this very method three times and I now have ten pullets that are penned adjacent to my mature hens' run. Every day about 11am, I turn the older hens out to roam around my 5 acre place. When I'm ready to integrate new pullets, I put them in the older hens' run while the old hens are out around the yard. When it's nearly dark and the old hens start to congregate around their closed pen with the new pullets in it, I put the pullets in the hen house and let the old hens into their regular pen. Then I open the hatch to the hen house and let them mingle. There are always a few skirmishes, but I've never observed anything serious. Because it's about time for them to roost, there seems to be a minimum of trouble. By morning, the pullets seem well integrated with the old hens.
    I do notice that the pullets tend to stay to themselves for a couple of weeks. But they finally all graze on the yard together and the older hens seem to "teach" the pullets when it's time to return to the pen for the night. Monkey see, monkey do, I guess.
      BlueHenDel and WhatAboutBob? like this.
  41. chick n goat ma
    thankyou for a very helpful article. I recently introduced 7 eight week old cochin bantams of different breeds, (3 mottled, 2 old english game, one silkie and one little greyish white very small like half the size of the mottled (two of whom are cockerels.)with little tufts of small feathers growing on each cheek and no comb ot wattles showing so far. Using the look but not touch method, to my two great egg layers (360 plus or minus 5. eggs per year per bird so far) Cinnamon Queens sex links. and my beautiful barred rock cochin BIG bantam rooster 'Wincy' (bought at the tractor store as a bantam.) He is a big gentle fluff ball about the same size as the hens (Penny and Tuppence) .
    After a few days keeping the bantams in the run whilst the others got to see them there, thebig chucks free range in the large goat pen in which we built the coop and run. When we eventually let the bantams (and one is a Silkie) out of the run the original chucks chase them away but do not attack the bantams who have learned to keep out of their way.
    About an hour before sunset the bantams have learned to take themselves up the ramp into the coop where they get their evening meal and the big chucks get their supper in the run.. When I return at sunset to shut the coop door all is quiet, All chucks are already in the coop, either on the perch or in a nest for the night. They accept each other but do not as yet socialize with each other, like two tribes living on one piece of land. one small farm
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  42. 4 the Birds
    Great article! A coop add on can also be key if you add several new chickens to an existing flock. The existing flock will have an established roost spot and fights will happen if new birds try to establish territory. We added 25 new birds to the flock and they joined the existing flock with no problems (used dog gates for a week so they could get aquainted). They mingle and free range together during the day and the new birds choose to go sleep in the new shed apart from the existing flock coop.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  43. Goldy Show Hens
    Awesome job
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  44. Mountain Peeps
    @morrbett roosters are generally at the top of the pecking order, yes. Definitely keep the two groups separated for a while since they won't be used to the difference in genders.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  45. familyfarm1
    Wonderful article Sarah!!
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  46. morrbett
    When introducing new grown hens, how can I expect the rooster to act? Is he generally at the top of the pecking order?
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  47. Yorkshire Coop
    Great article, very informative. Another great read!!
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  48. Miss Lydia
    Very good article !!
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  49. mymilliefleur
    Great article Sarah!! Good job! I've noticed that I have more problems adding chickens to my bantam flock, which is small, and mostly the same breed, age, and size, (fortunately they are all very docile which saves me a lot of trouble) and kept in fairly small chicken tractors, vs my large fowl flock which is very large, and made up of many different sizes, ages, colors, breeds, and have lots of space. In the later there is almost no aggression, and after a minute or two of fighting the new birds usually get along with the other flock members just fine. My guess is that with all the variety (and space) they don't notice the new birds as much. Temperament definitely matters too, I have a couple bossier hens that enjoy seeing what the new birds are made of.
      BlueHenDel likes this.
  50. TwoCrows
    Very nice article!! :)
      BlueHenDel likes this.

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