is it just me or are banty eggs easier hatch

Days 25 & 28 are pretty late. Perhaps low temp? Maybe your thermometer isn’t reading true. All of mine hatch day 20-21 the only time I’ve had them hatch early was with a broody and they all hatched day 17-18
 
Days 25 & 28 are pretty late. Perhaps low temp? Maybe your thermometer isn’t reading true. All of mine hatch day 20-21 the only time I’ve had them hatch early was with a broody and they all hatched day 17-18
Do you have a incubator homemade or an actual bator??? With both i have late hatches as does my friend and we have to assist them with pinsize hole where air cell is. Something isnt right!
 
Our temps stay consistent. I had to order a remote hydrometer because i learned hard way you cant rely on a bators settings temp or humidity
 
If you are having late hatches, your bator temp is off. Have you calibrated your thermometers to 100* using a good medical grade thermometer? And have you calibrated your hygrometer? Are you tracking your air cell sizes?

More often, banties hatch early rather than late.

As for home made vs: "actual bator"... don't put down those home made bators! A good home made bator, in the hands of a skilled handler will produce an excellent hatch! My hatch rates usually are better than hatch rates in huge bators in mega hatcheries. This, comparing my two home made bators to purchased or commerical ones!

You should not have to be making pin holes either. I'm not telling you NOT TO do this, just saying that if your bator equipment is calibrated, you have accurately assessed air cell size, and if your eggs are coming from quality breeders, you should not need to routinely intervene. I will assist on an as needed basis, but those assists are abnormal, and not at all par for the course.

IMO, Your banty is the problem. His legs are not long enough for him to hit the target with a LF hen!
 
Just one more thought: If his short stumpy little legs are being passed on to the next generation, perhaps those legs are not long enough to generate enough thrust at hatching time. The whole physiology of the interaction between oxygen levels, and how oxygen depletion causes reciprocal leg thrusting to change to simultaneous leg thrusting as a chick is completing the hatch is fascinating. Even knowing this... something as simple as making those pin holes can actually delay the hatch, b/c the chick does not go through that necessary O2 deprivation which causes the necessary leg thrusting.
 
If you are having late hatches, your bator temp is off. Have you calibrated your thermometers to 100* using a good medical grade thermometer? And have you calibrated your hygrometer? Are you tracking your air cell sizes?

More often, banties hatch early rather than late.

As for home made vs: "actual bator"... don't put down those home made bators! A good home made bator, in the hands of a skilled handler will produce an excellent hatch! My hatch rates usually are better than hatch rates in huge bators in mega hatcheries. This, comparing my two home made bators to purchased or commerical ones!

You should not have to be making pin holes either. I'm not telling you NOT TO do this, just saying that if your bator equipment is calibrated, you have accurately assessed air cell size, and if your eggs are coming from quality breeders, you should not need to routinely intervene. I will assist on an as needed basis, but those assists are abnormal, and not at all par for the course.

IMO, Your banty is the problem. His legs are not long enough for him to hit the target with a LF hen!
He fertilizes eggs there was a baby in the egg i checked i think his short leg trait is maybe passing on making the baby chick not proportioned right in size to kick or move to hatch out? Theres bullseye in all my yolk, too. It took him a few months but he hits the target i think his unfortunate genes are affecting my standard eggs!!!
 
I havent used that and i am reading up on calibrating i have a happy farm with a sensor inside my bator because my actual b
If you are having late hatches, your bator temp is off. Have you calibrated your thermometers to 100* using a good medical grade thermometer? And have you calibrated your hygrometer? Are you tracking your air cell sizes?

More often, banties hatch early rather than late.

As for home made vs: "actual bator"... don't put down those home made bators! A good home made bator, in the hands of a skilled handler will produce an excellent hatch! My hatch rates usually are better than hatch rates in huge bators in mega hatcheries. This, comparing my two home made bators to purchased or commerical ones!

You should not have to be making pin holes either. I'm not telling you NOT TO do this, just saying that if your bator equipment is calibrated, you have accurately assessed air cell size, and if your eggs are coming from qualithermometers ers, you should not need to routinely intervene. I will assist on an as needed basis, but those assists are abnormal, and not at all par for the course.

IMO, Your banty is the problem. His legs are not long enough for him to hit the target with a LF hen!
I'm doing research on calibrating i have a happy farm renote sensor hygrometer inside my incubator and i know homemade bators are good my friend hatches more out of her styrofoam homemade bator. Ok all this calibrating stuff i am researching i just have a happy farm hydrometer that displays temp & humidity inside my 7egg incubator. i will continue reading on calibrating its all new to me this calibrating thing. but no i dont have a good Thermometer
 
I calibrate my thermometers to 100* in a cup of water. I use a digital oral thermometer, or a good old fashioned rectal mercury thermometer, and calibrate all thermometers (if they can be put in water) to the medical thermometer. Even if I use the same thermometer from one year to an other, I still calibrate every year.
 

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