is there such thing as portable run 6ft tall ?

Quote:
I had the same problem...the only really level place to put the coop/run was right next to the house and in the direct sun. My DH didn't want it in front of the house (even though we live back in a 'hollar' and cant be seen from the road), behind the house was too inconvenient for feeding, watering, getting eggs, and was too close to our bedroom (ya know rooster crowing, egg songs...) and my husband works nights. Out in the horse pasture was also too far away. I built a hoop run that was portable in the beginning but is now permanent, well it could still be moved if I wanted to pull up all the stakes holding the wire down. Mine is 10'x10' but they can be made bigger. For 24 birds you would need a minimum of 240 square feet. You could make it 12' wide and 20' long. Or 10' wide x 24' long. You could possibly pull it with a 4 wheeler or lawn tractor, or some teenage boys? Detachable wheels? Here is mine: The start...
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I eventually built the coop (to the side of our driveway, but still in the front of the house) and attached the run to it.
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Perhaps you could have 2 separate runs with a connecting tunnel made from hardware cloth? That may be the answer to the two trees that are in the way. Without seeing your property, it is hard to say what would work.
 
Mama, I'm not sure how much help this will be in your situation, but I've found, ( after having made almost 100 coop / run configurations ) that an A-Frame run lends itself to the most portability, uses the least lumber / mesh and provides ample ground space. Chickens only care about the ground space, they never use the upper corner space wasted in a square or rectangular run design.
When I need to make a longer run, I simply make it in detachable 6 ft. sections. Almost anyone can walk into a 6 ft. section and lift from the middle of the upper center frame beam and walk it around.
I make my framing from 1x3x6 ft. lengths for the upper center beam and 2 horizontal bottom lengths, then connect these using 2x2's for the vertical framing. I use hinges with a removable center pin to attach each section, but you can also use regular hinges and just remove one side with a screw gun each time you want to use it, ( or bolts with a wingnut, or drop on gate pins, etc.... lots of room here for creativity ! )
The suggestion to use tunnels to connect from your coops may work well for you if using an A-Frame, too.
Hope this gives you some ideas. - Danny
 

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