Is this a good incubator or did I made a mistake?

Sure there will be disagreements about this bator, I do not question using a lightbulb as a heat source, but using single lightbulb in cabinet type bator is not very wise, I have built mine first bator using multiple christmas lights (C7) type 3 Watts each for supereven heat distribution, and better reliability than any even commercial bator equipped with single heat source. If one or two more bulbs burns out overnight it will not affect much the whole operation, and since I see them all going on and off during the day I have total control over reliability of operation.

As for the price for the disputed bator, it really cost about $425 since you have to buy and add turners.

My friends $425 bucks for homemade bator powered by single lightbulb and cheap wafer thermostat is a stretch unless you are loaded with cash and your wife likes bators particular color and style matching her furniture.

You can buy second hand complete commercial Sportsman or Dickey cabinet for less, or for about a hundred or 150 more you can buy BRAND NEW Dickey or Sportsman with larger (double) capacity and undisputed, proven quality.
 
The purchase has been made so fire it up and try it out. You've got nothing to lose at this point. If it doesn't suit your style, you can always resell it and try something else. Enjoy the hatch and keep us posted. I'm excited for you.
 
I think it looks nice! I would worry about the eggs on the top shelf in close proximity to the light bulb. It looks like they might be getting a little extra radiant cooking!

I love the drawer idea, opening out the side for the lower hatching area.

Cheers!
 
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I agree.. I have bought 3 sportsmans and have not paid more than $300. for any of them.. One was used only one time.. and with each of them, i got extra egg holders, thermostats, extra trays etc..

If that light bulb doesn't work out, you can buy a real heating coil for about $13.oo and install it in place of the light bulb..

there is less than $20.oo material in that one.. unless the guy bought a fan from GQF and that would have been about $40.oo

Oh well, you have it now, might as well make the best of it..
 
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You have to remember that on e-bay, there are ghost bidders..
People in cahoots with the seller who bid just to make the price go up..

a heating element uncoubtedly will last longer than a light bulb.. and if it burns out, it can be repaired on the spot.. I have done it many times..

this is my final post about this subject..
 
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Less than $20 in materials my butt? You cant even get a wafer thermostat for $20.
I wish I could get materials as cheep as yall make them out to be.

Not saying that if I was building incubators to sell I would build them just like that. But I wouldn't copy a sportsman ether. I dont like there setup ether. But just because I would do it different does not mean there not worth every dime that they cost.
 
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Sportsman is an excellent design wheter you like it or not, Mr Dickey who makes famous handcrafted bators made of wood did not try to outsmart Sportsman desing, he copied Sportsman making it of wood not lousy particle board.

Speaking of wafer thermostats, they are passe. Old technology. Vulnerable to changing atmospheric pressure.

Would you bother with oil fired bator (XIX century) technology? It belongs to museum. So does wafer thermostat.

For about $25.00 you can get plug and play no wiring necessary very reliable thermostat: Repti zoo med 500R

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDEQ8wIwAg#

I have 2 of them, they outperform any "electronic" or no "electronic" or wafer or water heater thermostats, or any thermostat used in styrobators.

Once you get one of those "you will never go back"

I even improved commercial bator performance (Brower top hatch TH120) using this thermostat.

Again no wiring necessary.

Also I found using those thermostats (I have 2 now) no matter what the room temp is even if your bator has not the best insulation, Repti 500R will cut the temp off at set temperature. No more spikes and cooked embrios.

Will also cut in within .3 to .5 F range (depending on your bator design).

Nedless to say it will outperfoem in my case Brinsea 20 thermostat under vastly varying room temperatures.

Meaning if room temp is stable 5 deg F difference, Brinsea will keep set rock solid temperature.

But if my room temperature varies 10 degrees F (common in Fl winter) the Brinsea will go down little bit with the room, but Repti 500 will keep oscilating between 99.5 - 100 or whatever I set it for no matter what the Room temperature is.
 
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Sportsman is an excellent design wheter you like it or not, Mr Dickey who makes famous handcrafted bators made of wood did not try to outsmart Sportsman desing, he copied Sportsman making it of wood not lousy particle board.

Speaking of wafer thermostats, they are passe. Old technology. Vulnerable to changing atmospheric pressure.

Would you bother with oil fired bator (XIX century) technology? It belongs to museum. So does wafer thermostat.

For about $25.00 you can get plug and play no wiring necessary very reliable thermostat: Repti zoo med 500R

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDEQ8wIwAg#

I have 2 of them, they outperform any "electronic" or no "electronic" or wafer or water heater thermostats, or any thermostat used in styrobators.

Once you get one of those "you will never go back"

I even improved commercial bator performance (Brower top hatch TH120) using this thermostat.

Again no wiring necessary.

Also I found using those thermostats (I have 2 now) no matter what the room temp is even if your bator has not the best insulation, Repti 500R will cut the temp off at set temperature. No more spikes and cooked embrios.

Will also cut in within .3 to .5 F range (depending on your bator design).

Nedless to say it will outperfoem in my case Brinsea 20 thermostat under vastly varying room temperatures.

Meaning if room temp is stable 5 deg F difference, Brinsea will keep set rock solid temperature.

But if my room temperature varies 10 degrees F (common in Fl winter) the Brinsea will go down little bit with the room, but Repti 500 will keep oscilating between 99.5 - 100 or whatever I set it for no matter what the Room temperature is.

I didnt say sportsman was not a good incubator. I have one. But there not perfect. If I built my own to sell they would not be a sportsman clone. But then Im not the person using this thread to hate in someone elses product. This whole idea that if your not using the latest greatest electronic doohickey then you have junk is a load of hooey. You can build a great incubator useing a wafer. I have. You can also build a great incubator using a water heater thermostat. I have done that to. (Not that I would build an sell one with a WHT.) I have also built them using close to a dozen other thermostats from home built to the repti 500 an it predecessors. I actually do have a lantern powered incubator in the works to. Why? Because I dont assume anything is better or worse, right or wrong, works or don't until I have done it my self.
 

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