Is this a rat?

DoubletakeFarm

Songster
8 Years
Feb 23, 2013
273
59
166
NE Ohio
I have something that has made tunnels under my chicken and goose pens. I'm sure it's eating the chicken and goose feed. I'm not losing any eggs or chicks. I filled the tunnels in and the next day it chewed through the frelonic mats to get back in. All I can think of is rats. Can't catch the buggers to save my life though. Poison is out of the question, and I can't set rat traps around my livestock. I set a live trap baited with peanut butter but no luck. I set some rat traps on the roof of the pen where none of my animals can get to but didn't catch anything there either. Finally I've resorted to locking the chickens out of their coop and putting the rat traps inside. Two days and still nothing. Poor chickens want back in. I don't understand why I can't catch it. I'm about to take my Jack Russell out and let him dig the hell out my barn just so I can get whatever it is. Any suggestions?



Isn't it weird how the dirt is all balled up?



 
Hope this helps-

Rats/Graduate Level- the Norway Rat (rattus rattus)- I guarantee this is YOUR rat.

Boy, are you right. Rats are Amazing!
The reason I have more success with the smaller trigger plate is that the bait (big hunk of smoked sausage/couple of hunks of slim jim) will disguise the trigger.
Just my experience.
One important behavior you should understand- Rats are neophobic (skeptical if not fearful of new "things" in their little world. It can take days for the rats to investigate the trap).
You do not have just a rat. I'm sorry to tell you that you have a rat population that is setting up home.
In order to eliminate the rat issue, you need to consider these facts- Rats have a social structure. Honest. There are three levels in the rat colony. The dominate (Alpha), the "Middle" (Beta), and the "dregs" of the colony (Omega).
This is important- The first rats will you see and kill are the Alpha's. They are larger and healthier that the others.Their home is the room inside the entrance of the colony. They live closer to the food and water, and eat only the best foods. It is critical to kill the Alpha's. The Alpha's will come out any time it is quiet, not only at night. These rats will quickly learn about dangers like traps alone and these rats are the rats that will balloon the population is not eliminated. Once you begin to see rats that are smaller and thinner or with a coat of lesser quality, you have turned the tide. The second rats you will see are the Beta's.
Once the Alpha's are gone, the Beta's move up a floor in the colony. These rats are not as smart and are much more fearful. They are also hungrier and will accept a bait in relative short order. When you begin catching or seeing, well, "scurvy", skinny, smaller and visibly less healthy than the others, you are at the "Goal Line". Remain diligent and you will win.

Now rats will do "things" with traps like-
Jumping over them- So, drill a small hole through the base of the trap opposite the trigger plate. Use a piece of wire to attach 2 traps together about 2-3" apart.
Pushing them to set them off. If this happens, secure it to the floor with a small nail or screw.
In general, place some perpendicular, as well as along a wall (the double trap set-up) where you know the rats run. Place some traps in areas where you see droppings.
Look around and identify as many areas where there is activity both in and out.

My friend, I would like you to consider a "poison". Rats, and other rodents, have a strange physical trait that we can exploit. Rats are unable to digest and metabolize Vitamin D3.
We can. Your livestock can. Your pets can. A mouse can not! Rats can not! There exist compounds that will assist you greatly in conjunction with traps. One such Rodent Bait Is TERAD3.
I keep this around the farm for just such instances. It won't hurt my dogs, cows or chickens. I highly recommend you use these in pellet formulation. Please, to ease your concerns, review the label for the product:

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/msds/Terad3_Pellets_Label.pdf

This is a good price: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/terad3-pellets-lb-pail-p-1280.html

I also recommend that you purchase a couple of bait stations. These stations will keep the bait dry and palatable for a long time, are tamper proof and may be placed anywhere you are seeing rat activity. Any of the stations in your budget will suffice- here are some choices and some good information:

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/rat-bait-stations-c-21_333.html?page=1

If, the previously mentioned efforts are unsuccessful, I am sorry to say and I understand how you feel about poisons, you will need a single dose anti-coagulant rodent bait. These baits, when used properly, are safe, The amount of active ingredient in these baits are too low to kill a dog or other, larger mammals. If, however, you suspect one of your animals is ill due to ingesting this type of bait, FEED THE ANIMAL WITH A FOOD THAT IS HIGH IN VITAMIN K. Vitamin K is the antidote and is in most dog foods and is an easy supplement to find. Honest. One just needs to be observant.

This is a bait I use routinely for "bad situations":

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/msds/Contrac_Blox Label.pdf

I prefer the blocks and bait station:

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/contrac-blox-rodenticide-p-80.html

Well, there you go. I'm ready for another cup of coffee. Get with me if you have any questions or further problems.
Good Luck-
 
You're absolutely right @JackE !! I remember now...my dad had gophers (whatever they were) and he took a propane tank, blocked other holes, and shot it full of propane...problem solved!

That'll work too, but propane cost too much $$$ nowadays, much cheaper to use car exhaust. My Dad, told a story, when America was a different country, he and a group of his friends, at the age of 12, would take their .22 rifles, and a can of gas down to the local dump. They would pour about a cup of gas into one of the holes in the trash heap, wait a minute or so, to let the vapors seep into the heap. Then, toss a match in the hole. He said the whole heap would jump, then the rats would POUR out of it. He and his friends would blast away with their .22s and have a ball. Dad said his dog, who usually came along with them, didn't know which rat to grab first. Can you imagine today, a group of kids carrying rifles down through the middle of town? They would probably have the SWAT team come down on them.
 
I don't know if this will help - and I haven't read the whole thread to see if this had been discussed or not ...

A couple of years ago I had rats in my barn. They were eating the dribbled horse's feed. At first I was all 'live and let live' - they were, after all, cleaning up... Then I found rat poo INSIDE the feeders. Shortly after that they chewed a hole in the bottom of the feeder so it fell out faster without them having to bother to climb in.
I didn't want to use poison because of the dogs and cats around the barn. So I tried dozens of crazy ideas that I found online.
1. moth balls down the holes - nearly gassed the horses to death
2. gold fish gravel down the holes (won't pack, traps them) - the decorated the barn with it
3. glue traps tucked up under the feeder - had to shave them off of the horse
4. glue traps shoved down the hole - had to shave them off the horse again... ?
5. spring traps - nearly lost a finger - had to remove from horse's tail
and on, and on, and on.

Finally someone reminded me that the rat will only eat enough poison to kill a rat - they will die before they consume enough to kill a lab.....
...... lightbulb moment...
I poured a little Decon down each hole and backfilled them.
Have not seen another rat or hole since.
 
I am not sure what made those holes but I can say that whatever it is the dog may be your best bet at getting rid of it. Especially if you can't use traps or poisons. I have three Jack Russell Terriers and they are THE BEST form of vermin control. I know jacks can be like a tornado once they get on the scent of something but if its an animal that could harm your birds then maybe its worth giving your dog another try. Doing a little rapair/cleanup work will be easier in the long run then loosing your flock.

This is a picture of two of my jacks digging out a groundhog hole
 
Looks like a ground squirrel hole, you might have better luck if you set a live trap the squirrel sized one. Put a little scratch for bait. I've caught over 20 of them this way. Get him quick before they multiply. I decided to go back to having a cat never seen any when we had a cat. When you set the trap put a few good sized rock on the sides of the trap and one on top when they get caught they bounce around so much it can knock the trap on is side and set them loose. Best of luck.
My future mighty white hunter :)
700
 
were having the same problem in our barn and its " rats" we live close to a farmers field and they have found out that theirs food and water in there so, they decided to move in". well we now take the food away at night and the water.and put them in sealed containers" so they should move on now cause theirs no food supply.

we tried a 5 gallon pail empty and put a piece of wire through the top of it " strung from one side to the other". in the middle we put a empty can that spins if anything gets on it, so theyll drop into the water and drown if they try to get the peanut butter that the can is coated with." they are very smart! they havent gone near it. though i have the same type holes that you have and i did see the rats lurking in the yard,so i know for sure " thats what we have.
 

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