Issues with Welded Wire Fencing - I need help

[WalkingWolf]

If you have access to logging chains, or cable, set trailer tie down screws off each end. Tighten the cable or chain to pull the fence in line or tight again. Then put in your corner braces. If the fence is still a little loose then use linemen pliers to put evenly spaced crimps in between welds and this will tighten the fence. Be careful because welded wire is a light gauge, too tight will pop welds and the wire itself.

You can find the tie down screws at Lowe's or Home depot. If your ground is solid you may be able to get away with using pet tie out screw stakes.

 

[Zahboo]

We have adventures with this wire when we build dog pens. We used the 5' wire at the house we are in now. We learned a lot at the other house. One problem was it kept wanting to be rolled. We got wire a week in advance and layed it out. Let it get flat. Cinder blocks are good weight, or whatever you have handy. Also, use 2x4's connecting the ground posts to hold the wire straight, if that makes sense. Hope this helped.

 

[Omran]

Quote:
you are right it is hard to stetch it because it is real heavey, and I don't know if you put any support 2x4 between the wooden posts.
I have the same thing on my run but I have some 2x4 as supports in between and I cut the welded wire in sections that way I did not have to lift a lot while I am nailing it

Omran.

 

[CARS]

I would add a board all the way around your run 6' up to staple the wire to.

This is not a great pic but it should give you an idea of what I did.

My run was originally a lean-to on a hog barn. The roof was missing when we bought the place. I just used the poles and added boards across the top and bottom to hold everything together.

I used the same welded wire you are using. I don't remember having any issues, but I didn't stretch it either. The only issue I have is when people come to visit they hang on it and make it all wavy.

 

[patandchickens]

I think your basic problem is that 10' post spacing. You can do that with field fencing because it is designed to be stretched (has crimps built into it, or is made of high-tensile wire, depending which kind you buy) but regular ol' welded wire mesh just won't stretch. The best you can do is take slack out of it, but over a 10' span the unsupported top and bottom *will* curve and flop.

I would suggest running wood at the top and bottom of the fence, between your posts. If you start from the middle of the run and work outwards, inserting these, and hand-cut them exactly to measurement, you may be able to get a little extra tautness by repairing any slight lean you've put into your fenceposts; but mostly they will function to hold the wire against flopping.

Alternatively you could remove the wire and add posts so you only have 5' spans. Personally I'd do the above, though, not this.

A trick that helps somewhat, but only on shorter spans not 10', is to attach the wire all along its 'middle' first (e.g. if it is 6' high wire, get it attached to all the posts at the 3' level first) then go along tightening/stapling it DIAGONALLY, from the middle towards each end, so that you are stretching the top and bottom as high/low (with diagonal tension) as you can. Again, this won't help on an overly long span.

Good luck,

Pat

 

[acheeknmanbestfren]

Is the fencing tighter along the bottom? If so, support along the top (which can be installed without removing the fencing) should do the trick as long as your corners aren't moving. We put up 400' of the same fencing with 10' posts and found the top support between posts was necessary.

 

[TreeHugger]

The fence is tighter along the bottom. Once the weather starts to cooperate I will be at it again. I'm going to put in the supports along the top & bottom. Hopefully I can do it without taking the first section down. Thanks a lot for the pics, it gives me a better idea of what I need to do!

 

[acheeknmanbestfren]

If I may suggest, try just the top first, it could save you some money. With the posts in concrete the bottoms are far less likely to move.

 

[meezermom]

I totally agree with Pat - after years of putting up field & horse fence, that is the way to do it.

Good luck with it - been there done that & it is frustrating -

 

[Schroeder]

I apologize for hijacking the thread (I tried to wait until I thought the conversation was winding down), but my question is related. What if metal posts had been used? For something in the range of 16 ft x 60 ft will I need wood corners with bracing? Is there something made specifically for metal fencing to convert three metal posts to form a corner?