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Ivermectin dosing

MendonMan

Chirping
12 Years
Jan 31, 2012
46
1
87
I have 2 Buff Orps and 2 Barred Rock hens. All are not laying now (molting). I'd like to administer a dose of Ivermectin.

From what I read on these forums I can administer a drop onto their skin on the neck (anywhere there is bare skin really), right?

Also, I see many different forms of it; paste, pour-on, and injection. It appears this is the oil:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/iverontrade;-parasiticide-5-l

For me, something from Tractor Supply is the easiest for me to get to.

I want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.

And I don't have to dose it again? Just the once (this fall). And then not use any eggs for 2 weeks?

Thanks,

Charles
 
I have 2 Buff Orps and 2 Barred Rock hens. All are not laying now (molting). I'd like to administer a dose of Ivermectin.

From what I read on these forums I can administer a drop onto their skin on the neck (anywhere there is bare skin really), right?

Also, I see many different forms of it; paste, pour-on, and injection. It appears this is the oil:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/iverontrade;-parasiticide-5-l

For me, something from Tractor Supply is the easiest for me to get to.

I want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.

And I don't have to dose it again? Just the once (this fall). And then not use any eggs for 2 weeks?

Thanks,

Charles

I dont recommend worming during molt. Birds in molt are already under enough stress as it is. Wait to worm when molt is complete. I dont recommend using ivermectin for worming. It has lost its effectiveness as a wormer in chickens. Consider purchasing valbazen liquid cattle/sheep wormer or safeguard liquid goat wormer to worm your birds when they are finished molt.
 
For either valbazen or safeguard liquids, administer orally undiluted using a syringe without a needle. Dosage is 1/2cc orally for standard size chickens, 1/4cc for smaller chickens. Redose again in 10 days using either wormer. There's a 14 day withdrawal period after last dosing.
 
That kind of makes sense. I just hate having to dose the birds so much, when one dose could possible take care of the full problem. If Valbazen is so much better then the rest, shouldn't it be killing eggs to adults?
Just trying to learn all I can, not trying to be rude or anything....I know people are pretty sensitive about worming vs not worming.
 
That kind of makes sense. I just hate having to dose the birds so much, when one dose could possible take care of the full problem. If Valbazen is so much better then the rest, shouldn't it be killing eggs to adults?
Just trying to learn all I can, not trying to be rude or anything....I know people are pretty sensitive about worming vs not worming.
There are no wormers that will wipe out eggs. Some types of worm eggs can survive in soil for many years even under extreme temperature/weather changes. Also, wormers dont have a 100% kill rate in the first dosing. Some types of wormers have a higher kill ratio on various types of worms than others with the first dosing, valbazen has the highest kill ratio of all wormers and kills all known types of worms that chickens can get. A second worming 10 days later ensures a 100% kill ratio that the first worming may have missed, as in larva hatched from eggs....as aart mentioned in post #6.
Here's a link as to the effectiveness of valbazen (albendazole.) Note the first time kill ratio on various types of worms by the albendazole; then you'll know why a second worming is needed:
http://japr.fass.org/content/16/3/392.full.pdf
Also note the JAPR report towards the bottom of the page.
 
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Thank you so much. That was very helpful.
It makes sense that if the chemical doesn't kill the eggs, you have to wait for them to hatch to then kill the parasite.
 

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