***JULY HATCH-A-LONG come join in***

Discussion in 'Incubating & Hatching Eggs' started by chickenmeadow, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. chickenmeadow

    chickenmeadow Crowing 9 Years

    Jun 14, 2009
    Southern Oregon
    My Coop
    July is almost upon us & many are setting eggs under a broody hen or setting in the incubator for a hatch in July. There'll be lots of "pips, rocking, wriggles, wiggles, cheeps, peeps, zips, lurking, popping lids, leaping outs & hatchings." Come join in on the fun!

    June brought a lot of broody hen hatching, more than I'd seen in prior months this year. Must be the weather!

    I'm still hanging out on the 'JUNE HATCH-A-LONG come join in' until the hatch posts are done for the month & will be checking in here to see what's happening til JULY comes along. June thread https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=348855&p=1

    try & relax everyone, enjoy the process & let Nature take it's course. Candle when necessary, open the incubator as little as possible & don't open in "lockdown." It all gets easier with experience. Such a miracle!

    If you're hatching or not, come on & join in for another month's Hatch-A-Long for July, we all enjoy the support! Happy hatching everyone!!

    Here's some info that I've collected for myself that you may find interesting or helpful! This is being posted to share some guidelines. You will find what works best for you & your equipment as you learn from your own hatches.

    **I will continue to use "edit" to add more info as it is collected & seems important or interesting.

    *When is day 1 (see #69 & #70) http://urbanext.illinois.edu/eggs/res32-qa.html

    be sure to monitor the incubator temperature the day you set the eggs in the bator & the day you put them into "lockdown." That's when I've noticed more temp fluctuations. Also, I've had better luck at keeping temps even in a room where there is no draft &/or room temp changes.

    *Emergency kit for incubator shut offs due to power outs: Keep a baby food jar filled with water & lid in the incubator ahead of time to hold temps longer, or add a warm one when needed. Clean smooth rock/s in the bator will hold temps longer also. Have some blankets handy to cover the bator to hold themps longer. Use a pocket warmer to warm the bator when getting cold, watch the temp in case it gets too warm.

    *Calibrating your hygrometer (see # & read the calculation correction at the bottom) (see post #241)

    a "water wiggler" with a glass thermometer inside for accuracy, should be the same temperature inside an egg. Maybe try making your own wiggler & getting a non-mercury glass thermometer from the pharmacy? See my thread for comments & DIY wiggler.

    *Sanitize your incubator between uses (I have used Brinsea Incubation Disinfectant, non-bleach, etc. The are a few choices for what to use including after sanitation, drying off in outdoor sunshine.

    “dry incubation” method (Day 1-17 & Day 18 "LOCKDOWN" to Day 21+ hatch day. I start Day 18 in the daytime so I can monitor any temp fluctuations)
    (see post #3) https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=113681&p=3

    Candling, simple, includes description & pictures (see post #6)

    progression (see post #1)

    *Hatchability Problem Analysis, this is not just for problems. (Description of daily embryo development, see Landmarks of Embryonic Development, Durring Incubation, Days 14-18 to understand what leads to Day 18 "lockdown")
    (see pg. 11 - includes section on “Nutritional Deficiencies & Toxicities” in chicks)

    *Air cell

    egg repair with wax (see post #678)

    carton hatching (see example in *My Hatch Progression,........... as seen below.

    *My Hatch Progression, from pip, zip to hatch & done in egg cartons in incubator.(see post #596)

    Still researching info on that! Let me know if you have any ideas!
    I do know that they seem to hatch faster when I'm away or have fallen asleep, ha ha!

    *My Brooder containers; fast & easy to set up, no-build, easy to find materials, & easy to clean. (see post #800)

    *Need to sex your chicks. (hatchery method at 2-4 days old) Watch this:

    *Treatments for Leg Problems in Chickens (& chicks)

    *My Christmas 09 - Incubation of 6 viable eggs (“save the favs”/see pg.70, post #695)

    Christmas 09 - Hatched eggs, 6 chicks (“save the favs”/see pg. 80, post #798)

    use distilled water in my incubator for the water tray & humidity, as I've seen my well water seem to go bad/foul smelling by the end of the 21 days (more possibility of bacteria, had a couple of hatches in the past that did not do well because of it). I also thuroughly sanitize my incubators after each hatch (Brinsea sanitizer, non-bleach, peroxide, some use bleach, etc.).

    MY "DRY INCUBATION" METHOD USED - That was very successful for me, but you will find out what works best for you & with your equipment.
    The purpose of using this method is so chicks don’t grow too large & not be able to turn during pip. Also, so they don’t drown in the excess liquid in the air cell when they pip/break through the inner membrane, before pipping the outer shell; the excess liquid is caused by too high humidity.
    *Days 1 thru 17: Temperature was 99.5 degrees F (this temp is for forced air incubators, measured at the level of the egg using a small thermometer that lays on top of the eggs), Humidity was 40% to 42% (with a couple of drops to no lower than 25% for air cell growth, may not be necessary though). Eggs were propped up at an angle with wide end at top, but most people just lay them down sideways. Turned eggs 3 times a day (on my work days) & 5 times a day (on my weekends); 5 times is better & always turn an uneven # of x's a day.
    *Day 18: "LOCKDOWN" starts. Stop turning eggs (they will position themselves for the air cell, turning eggs can put them out of position), put eggs into cardboard egg carton bottom with hole in each bottom for circulation, the carton keeps the air cell at the top & stops the hatched chicks from knocking around other eggs), keep temp at 99.5 F, bring humidity up to 55% for the durration, & do not open the incubator again until all chicks have hatched (opening it would drop the humidity too much for the other chicks in eggs & they could stick to shells & not get out).

    Be patient, as a few hatchs had some that took 24+ hrs from 1st pip to the last one hatched. I've come to attribute hatches that started on the same day with all eggs, then hatched at different times may have something to do with the breed of chick, hot & cold spots in the incubator (so I move the eggs around a few times in the bator when turning), etc.

    --OTHER INFO-- Things to read/consider to help keep from stressing about incubating. Relax & enjoy the wonder. LOL!
    *Homemade Natural Chicken Dust Bath Recipe (external parasites, such as mites & lice) put 1 part of each of the following in a kitty litter tray & leave out (keep dry) for chickens: wood ash, sand, DE (diatomaceous earth), & road dust (dusty dirt). You can also use STALL DRY in place of the last 2 ingredients, DE & road dust. My chickens love to bathe in this mixture so much that every morning I see the main rooster standing in the tray calling his flock to join him for a bath. (I sprinkle a little STALL DRY or DE only in the bottom of each of my nest boxes too). Food grade DE is the safest for humans & animals, it usually contains only 1% silica. My local livestock feed store carries it in 50# bags, I split that with other people.

    *Natural coop & nest box cleaning & external lice/mite control (See post #903) https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=4057137#p4057137

    your breeding flock for fertility, that's where a healthy egg starts. I have good luck with keeping my flock healthy & fertile by feeding the following daily: Organic chick starter crumbles, Organic layer crumbles, Organic layer pellets in the coop (less waist when locked in at night til morning), Oyster shell, grit, BOSS (Black Oil Sunflower Seeds-free feed in shell or ground like I do, very good for fertility), Alfalfa meal (with or without molasses), dried crushed cheyanne peppers (chickens don't have heat receptors, so it doesn't burn their mouth, etc.-helps worm them & adds circulation), Homemade Kiefer (has good digestive bacteria & can help with immune system, like a liquid yogurt, no heating method, just use the starter grains over for each batch-you can find starter packets in a health food store or get the grains online somewhere-got my grains from a friend), mealworms (easy to find at a pet store & easy to grow your own from the starts you buy from a pet store, directions below); grass clippings; garden scraps; & fresh clean water daily (a few days a week, they get ACV (apple cider vinegar) in the water, but not every day). Most mornings, the chickens start their day with a treat of my verson of "chicken mash" which is: Organic chick starter crumbles 18% protein, alfalfa meal, ground BOSS (blk oil sunflower seeds), dried crushed cheyanne peppers, Fertrell Poultry Nutri-Balancer powder, homemade Kiefer & water to moisten (in freezing winter just add the Kiefer, no water-the milk butterfat stops the mix from freezing, but the water freezes here in 20 min.). Whole corn or cracked corn is a great treat (especially in the late afternoon) the corn carbohydrates warm their body up for the night. Watermellon & rinds really help keep the flock hydrated in the summer heat, we got up to a freaky temp of 117 F last year & they weathered well. I don't feed a corn suppliment in the heat, instead barley works great to keep the heat down. Poultry wheat & sprouted poultry wheat is an excellent treat & easy to sprout, just rinse it well every day so it doesn't sour; sprouting adds quantity & nutrition, a good value.

    *Grow your own mealworms: Just keep them in a deep container (5 gal bucket with lid cut, cut large hole in lid & attach screening); keep them in the dark & out of the heat; fill the bucket 1/2 or more with wheat bran; layer the top with a piece of burlap (they'll lay eggs on this), a fresh whole carrot (a good clean food that does not mold easy like apple does), then 2 pieces of brown paper bag or newspaper (for easy worm collection inbetween the 2 papers); add the purchased worms. They will turn into beetles, lay eggs, hatch into worms, grow & start all over again. Wow, do they multiply!! Durring hot days, mist the top with water in a spray bottle. Check often to remove any moldy carrots & sift out bedding when the wheat bran has turned into dusty droppings at the bottom (put the droppings into a new container & watch that hatch into worms also); when the siftings are done hatching, you can just toss that into the garden. It's a very self-sustaining, high protein & inexpensive food source.

    *Good veggies for chickens https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=2593-Treats

    poo identification (graphic pictures, but very informative, droppings tell all about the health of an animal) http://www.chat.allotment.org.uk/index.php?topic=17568.0

    abbreviations. I'm always wondering just what type of chicken they've abreviated now. (see post #15) https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=42774&p=1
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 24, 2010
  2. speckledhen

    speckledhen Intentional Solitude Premium Member 11 Years

    Hi, got your report. Can't bold the titles, sorry. I did put three asterisks on either side of it for emphasis, if that's okay.
  3. incubatingisfun

    incubatingisfun Songster

    Dec 15, 2009
    my quial be hatching around the first day of july does that count or is it to early
  4. PandoraTaylor

    PandoraTaylor RT Poultry n Things

    Jun 29, 2009
    12 due on July 4th
    3 due July 9th
    31 due July 10th

    Possible Broody with 3 eggs so far....due 11th or 12th of July. My First Broody hen!
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2010
  5. clothdiaperingmom

    clothdiaperingmom Songster

    Feb 7, 2010
    Sweetwater, TX
    hi. I have batches with EDDs of July 2 and 10 and 11.
  6. Whitney13

    Whitney13 Songster

    May 14, 2010
    Malvern, AR
    I have 24 due July 6. [​IMG]
  7. FourPawz

    FourPawz Songster

    Apr 2, 2010
    I have 20 eggs due to hatch on the 10th of July.

  8. Lotsapaints

    Lotsapaints Songster

    Mar 17, 2010
    Paso Robles, CA
    I'm in again [​IMG] I set 13 Silver Penciled Rocks 6/17 due 7/8. Set 6 Golden Cuckoo Marans and 6 Black Coppers 6/18 due 7/9. In my new Turn X incubator set 10 Blue/Black Ameraucauna 6/19 due 7/10. I have more turkey eggs in the mail and Blue Copper Marans and New Hampshires whew that will be the end of eggs for me. Then I will be culling down to a reasonable number as I already have plenty of roosters any one need one? [​IMG]
  9. SweetMotherOfMars

    SweetMotherOfMars Chirping

    Aug 24, 2009
    The Palouse
    We've got twenty-six chicken eggs in. Eighteen went in early on the 15th and are due July 5th.
    I was going to add the full 9-10 more laid on the 16th but found DD had gathered half of them early... and put them in the fridge. [​IMG] It was pretty cold outside that day though, so I told her to add two of hers (from our blue hens) to the four I brought in. (They were all about the same temp and needed to get to room temp before putting them in.)
    [​IMG] Then I couldn't leave well enough alone and slipped 2 more in on the 18th.

    They are all mutts from our own flock, but we are trying to select for a couple of traits, so we bred one roo over two hens and the other over 8. If any of the [​IMG] are roos and are closer to what we want, we'll keep those and farm out the older boys. We are hoping for black/blue/splash, muff/beards, and blue (and green) eggs-layers (9 of those going in are blue). Most of our chooks have one of those traits, hoping some of the chicks have two traits.

    We candled the oldest ones and only 1 of the first 18 didn't have obvious veins. [​IMG]
  10. blueseal

    blueseal Songster

    Jul 3, 2008
    8 eggs under a broody golden laced wyandotte. due to hatch july 10th.

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