Kappy Coop Progress

KappyFlock

Songster
Jul 16, 2022
68
191
108
SE Michigan
My Coop
My Coop
Because I've been told that I will get more feedback on our coop design in a thread rather than an article, I am starting this thread by copying & pasting my (unfinished) coop article here. Thank you in advance for your feedback!

I'll put my current questions right up front, but if you have any suggestions about other aspects of our coop design, please share that too. We would rather get this right the first time rather than make changes later!

Questions:
1. Do our overhangs look sufficient to keep the inside of the coop dry?
2. Do we need to cover the points of the roofing nails that are sticking through the roof into the coop?
3. Is it ok if the run doesn't have a roof on it? It will have a cover eventually (solar panels for a non-coop-related project), but meanwhile there will be nothing to keep the run from getting wet when it rains or snows. (The top and sides will, however, be completely covered with hardware cloth.)


Our coop is based on many others we have seen here on BYC, including the Wichita Cabin Coop, Boisemarker, Clamser Coop, The Palace, and more. Thank you to everyone who has posted coop articles. You have been very helpful!

We are planning on getting 6 pullets to start. Once they quit laying, they will still be living here and we will add more chicks to our flock. We're thinking about having a max of 10. (Although yes I have read about and therefore am aware of chicken math!)

Here are a few pictures of our coop so far. The coop is 6x5 and the entire structure is 6x16.


Front of the Coop


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The top of the coop itself has a shingled roof. The extra structure above the coop roof extends across the entire coop and run, and that structure is there to support the solar panels my husband plans to install someday. (The solar panels are not for powering the coop, but he thought as long as he's building a structure in the yard he might as well use it to hold the solar panels.) The run will therefore be shaded by the solar panels.

On the right side the top hole is a window and the bottom hole is for the nesting boxes.

The front door is only framed, but you can see where a large window will be. After reading articles about ventilation, I urged my husband to create that large window. The back door of the coop, although shorter to provide roof slope, also has a window.

Speaking of ventilation, at the top of the coop there will be a few inches of permanent ventilation around the entire perimeter. Here is a photo.


Permanent Ventilation


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It might be hard to see, but there is a space at the top of the wall and there is also a soffit. One of the walls (the one that will be subjected to wind and rain) has only a soffit, but the other three walls have both.


Inside the Coop


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The above picture is the inside of the coop, with the hole for the nesting boxes on the lower left and the pop hole on the right. Much of the wood came from an old playset my husband dismantled, and that's why the floor has some paint on it. This floor will have a sheet of remnant vinyl over it. Both the front and back of the coop (the parts that are only framed so far) are on hinges, so we can open them for cleaning and whatnot.

That's all we have to share so far. Here's one more picture, from another angle.



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I am looking forward to any comments you have. We think it's going well, but if there is anything we need to change, we'd like to know. Thank you!
 
You're off to a great start, I think.

Questions:
1. Do our overhangs look sufficient to keep the inside of the coop dry?
2. Do we need to cover the points of the roofing nails that are sticking through the roof into the coop?
3. Is it ok if the run doesn't have a roof on it? It will have a cover eventually (solar panels for a non-coop-related project), but meanwhile there will be nothing to keep the run from getting wet when it rains or snows. (The top and sides will, however, be completely covered with hardware cloth.)

1. The bigger the better with roof overhangs. In addition to keeping blowing weather out of your vents it's really miserable to be gathering eggs with rain dripping off the roof down the back of your neck.

If you find that they're not big enough, you can add awnings or extend the roof (I have some links on how to do this).

2. I didn't. The hens aren't up there and they're over everyone's head. :)

3. Yes, though you will either need extra space in your coop for winter or you'll have to do something to remove/cover snow.

If the hardware cloth is well supported you could put a tarp on the roof for the first winter.
 
I haven't posted any pictures in a while, but we have made enough progress on the coop to get the chicks! At least we think we are ready. Do you see anything we need to change?

One thing that concerns me is that waterer. I think it will be great once the chicks are a little taller. Right now, though, it has to be so low that I'm worried the pine shavings can bunch up under a cup, triggering water to flow into the cup even after it's full. Do you want to guess how I have already figured out this might be a problem? haha Yep, I had to remove wet pine shavings and make some adjustments. The coop is nice and dry again.

The two sides of the waterer not visible in the picture are nipples. Should I switch the cups to nipples too? Based on my two hours' worth of experience, nipples seem less prone to problems. haha I was worried the chicks wouldn't know how to drink from the nipples, so I wanted to provide cups to start with too. What do you think?

I thought I had a picture of the outside of the coop for your review, but I guess I don't. I'll update the thread with more pics soon.
 

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I would switch to all nipple waterers (sooo much cleaner/dryer IMO). If you *boop* each chick's beak on the nipple pins as soon as you put them in the coop(and make sure they get a drop/swallow), they should learn to drink from it just as they learn to drink from a cup/bowl.
 
The two sides of the waterer not visible in the picture are nipples. Should I switch the cups to nipples too? Based on my two hours' worth of experience, nipples seem less prone to problems. haha I was worried the chicks wouldn't know how to drink from the nipples, so I wanted to provide cups to start with too. What do you think?
I'd wait to switch the cups over for now, tiny chicks can often not be strong enough to activate the HN triggers. the cups will probably get messed up with shavings, but you'll just have to deal with it for a few weeks.

Raising the waterer and putting a brick in front of the cups will help keep cups cleaner.
 
Thank you! This is helpful. I didn't know about the different nipples for the youngest chicks. The person at the store didn't know how old our chicks are so I'll leave the cups there for now. I've had another water incident (smaller than the first one, since I was right there) and I'm just going to have to keep an eye on it.
 
they frequently make a leaking mess and are not in any way good for freezing temps.

Mine don't leak at all, and I'm only using them for baby chicks indoors. I didn't suggest they should be used past that stage or in freezing temps. For me, it keeps things clean and dry in the brooder.
 
I agree little ones are not strong enough to push the plunger on horiz. nipples ,my  favorite invention. But I would suggest you see how to hang waterers which helps some not all.
I would also suggest an "awning"of sorts over nest boxes as the rain will drip right down your neck. If you had extra a bigger overhang of 12" or so is nice but when we're recycling and on a budget and the price of LUMBER right up there like all else Im impressed with your progress and design so far. I don't know how much snow you guys get but if I knew it was going to snow I would lay down a feed bag to keep soil dry in one area to have for a dust bath . I also scooped pathways 'cause my chicken are evidently allergic to snow!
 
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