Keeping the coop warm in the winter, HOW?

[jtn42248]

I have thought about that, and thank you for the suggestion. The coop is higher off the back end and fairly close to the ground at the front due to our slope. Not sure what type of insulation we could put that they wouldn't eat-anything like foam or fiberglass would have to be covered as well because they go underneath. Have also thought about those big rubber horse mats for stalls to put under the shavings for shock absorption as well as added warmth, but not sure I can afford it. Will look into it, though. His side of the coop is 8x8.

Something else that might work and would not be all that expensive is an inexpensive plastic painters tarp under the shavings to block any wind that comes through the flooring. I do my brooding in an gable off an unfinished room above my garage. It is about 8 x 12 and has a plywood floor. I got a cheap plastic tarp at the hardware store (less than 10 dollars) and put in down then put the shavings on top of it (and for brooding chicks put an old sheet on top of that for the first few days). It is easy to clean up when brooding is over (just gather up the corners and drag everything out to the burn pile), keeps anything from seeping through and soaking into the plywood floor and blocks any drafts from the garage below. You just want to make sure any liquid gets absorbed by the shavings and does not pool on the tarp. Just a thought.

 

[speckledhen]

Something else that might work and would not be all that expensive is an inexpensive plastic painters tarp under the shavings to block any wind that comes through the flooring. I do my brooding in an gable off an unfinished room above my garage. It is about 8 x 12 and has a plywood floor. I got a cheap plastic tarp at the hardware store (less than 10 dollars) and put in down then put the shavings on top of it (and for brooding chicks put an old sheet on top of that for the first few days). It is easy to clean up when brooding is over (just gather up the corners and drag everything out to the burn pile), keeps anything from seeping through and soaking into the plywood floor and blocks any drafts from the garage below. You just want to make sure any liquid gets absorbed by the shavings and does not pool on the tarp. Just a thought.

I appreciate the input and suggestion. There isn't any breeze coming through the floor, per se. It's tongue in groove OSB, with vinyl tiles on top of that. This coop is fairly draft free up to the point of the high long vents, but at zero degrees, with winds rushing underneath, naturally, the floor is much colder than up on the roost where he'd normally sleep. He's also been known to fall off the roost when his stiff leg makes him lose his balance, even with his extra wide "elderly" roost and if it's dark, he can't make it back up there. We have a baby monitor in the coop, though, so we usually hear someone fall and he whimpers when he's upset. I just think the night he got frostbite, he didn't ever get up on the roost in the first place. I'm understandably nervous about this winter for Isaac. He's a real treasure, that rooster.

 

[jtn42248]

I'm understandably nervous about this winter for Isaac. He's a real treasure, that rooster.

It is so nice to see someone who recognizes the value of an individual bird...even a rooster.

 

[juliag103]

Last year I put my chicks outside for the first time in December... They were about 3 months old already, but I'm in Michigan (and it was a COLD winter)!

I have a small coop, not heated, not insulated (and not well vented honestly, it was my first build).

When I first put them out there on December 1, I was worried about it being too cold. I put a heat lamp in the corner of the coop. And had a friend watch my house and chickens while I was out of town the first week in December. When I came home, the first thing that I noticed was that the coop was dark. Apparently the chickens had attacked the light! I found the bulb (intact) in one corner, the metal cover in the other corner, and the base sitting on the ground.

I figured that was their way of telling me they didn't need a heater, so I never put another out there. And all 8 of my Isa Browns survived the worst winter in west Michigan history just fine!

Currently building a bigger coop (with ventilation this time!) for this winter since I've aquired a few more family members, and it will not be heated or insulated either.


Actually, one hint is this-- do NOT brush the snow off your coop. Snow itself is a good insulator. My coop had 3.5 feet of snow on it most of the winter, and that kept it pretty warm.

I live in Michigan also (about 90 minutes north from Muskegon,) and after last winter, I'm ready to bring my chickens in for the winter! My coop is 8'x10' with a 9' pitch. It's 3' off the ground and has East (2 1'x2') and West (2 2'x4') ventilation grates. There are North and South entry doors that go out to a 30'x30' run We have eight 12"x12"x12" nest boxes, two 18"x18"x18" (we made them for the Light Brahmas because some are too big for the 12x12s; now the 18x18s look stupidly huge, but they are the only boxes everyone lays in now) boxes, two 10'-12' 2"x4" roosts (2" side up for roosting) 2' and 5' above the floor and 19 chickens: three EE roosters, seven EE hens, five Light Brahmas, two Production Reds, one Silver-Laced Wyandotte and one Black Star. We may only take 12 or 14 through the winter. Right now, the coop is bare floor (scraped down every week) and the boxes have shavings in them, also cleaned out every week. Some chickens sleep in the nest boxes and those get cleaned daily. Others sleep on top of the nest boxes, and that gets scraped every day. Should I put something up there so they're not sleeping on their own poop

The coop is wired with electricity and has two outlets and a floodlight (can't scoop poop if you can't see poop.) I was considering some heat, around 40 degrees, just to keep it above freezing, and for peace of mind. The coop is double-walled, and the few obvious draft threats are getting closed. I'm hearing a lot about straw and shavings on the coop floor helping, and that infrared heat lamps aren't such a good idea. I understand the humidity and cold issue, and I'm pretty sure I have adequate ventilation. I notice the floor always looks 'damp,' and 'dampness' around the trusses where the eaves start. It does seem more humid in there than outside. The coop hasn't smelled like 'chickens' yet.

So, is my coop size adequate? If not, what would be good changes going into the winter? What about heat? If I don't heat, will the water freeze? The coldest winds here come from the North, and I was planning on blocking off that North entrance. Yes or no? I am concerned about humidity, and have used a product called 'Sweet PDZ' under sawdust in dirt-bottom, matted and cement floored horse stalls that really absorbed the moisture. I can see the chickens eating it, tho. The floor is particleboard, should I put a sealant on it? Obviously, this is my first winter with chickens, so I need some help. I want my kids to be comfortable, and I know they have been surviving outside for a very long time. I just don't want to go overboard or underboard. So anyone with experience in my temperature/weather zone, your knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Julia

 

[bruceha2000]

I live in Michigan also (about 90 minutes north from Muskegon,) and after last winter, I'm ready to bring my chickens in for the winter! My coop is 8'x10' with a 9' pitch. It's 3' off the ground and has East (2 1'x2') and West (2 2'x4') ventilation grates. There are North and South entry doors that go out to a 30'x30' run We have eight 12"x12"x12" nest boxes, two 18"x18"x18" (we made them for the Light Brahmas because some are too big for the 12x12s; now the 18x18s look stupidly huge, but they are the only boxes everyone lays in now) boxes, two 10'-12' 2"x4" roosts (2" side up for roosting) 2' and 5' above the floor and 19 chickens: three EE roosters, seven EE hens, five Light Brahmas, two Production Reds, one Silver-Laced Wyandotte and one Black Star. We may only take 12 or 14 through the winter. Right now, the coop is bare floor (scraped down every week) and the boxes have shavings in them, also cleaned out every week. Some chickens sleep in the nest boxes and those get cleaned daily. Others sleep on top of the nest boxes, and that gets scraped every day. Should I put something up there so they're not sleeping on their own poop

The coop is wired with electricity and has two outlets and a floodlight (can't scoop poop if you can't see poop.) I was considering some heat, around 40 degrees, just to keep it above freezing, and for peace of mind. The coop is double-walled, and the few obvious draft threats are getting closed. I'm hearing a lot about straw and shavings on the coop floor helping, and that infrared heat lamps aren't such a good idea. I understand the humidity and cold issue, and I'm pretty sure I have adequate ventilation. I notice the floor always looks 'damp,' and 'dampness' around the trusses where the eaves start. It does seem more humid in there than outside. The coop hasn't smelled like 'chickens' yet.

So, is my coop size adequate? If not, what would be good changes going into the winter? What about heat? If I don't heat, will the water freeze? The coldest winds here come from the North, and I was planning on blocking off that North entrance. Yes or no? I am concerned about humidity, and have used a product called 'Sweet PDZ' under sawdust in dirt-bottom, matted and cement floored horse stalls that really absorbed the moisture. I can see the chickens eating it, tho. The floor is particleboard, should I put a sealant on it? Obviously, this is my first winter with chickens, so I need some help. I want my kids to be comfortable, and I know they have been surviving outside for a very long time. I just don't want to go overboard or underboard. So anyone with experience in my temperature/weather zone, your knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Julia

I'd say your coop is just adequate for 19 birds IF the birds have access to the 30x3o run all day. Otherwise, they are pretty tight in the coop. I would insulate UNDER the coop because the cold air blowing through there will cool the coop. My chickens think rigid insulation is to be pecked to death so put a piece of 2" (or two 1" or whatever) rigid insulation under the coop floor, then cover that with a piece of plywood.

With regard to the birds not sleeping on the roosts, you are kinda short there. 1 foot per bird in the winter is fine because they will pack together. But in the summer, a full sized fowl takes up about a foot of roost space and they need to be able to spread out more to stay cooler. The birds high in the pecking order (thus on the higher roost) will kick off the others as they see fit. The lower ones take the low roost and the lowest ones have to find somewhere else to sleep. If you can, or if at some point you build an addition or another coop, I would aim for 2' of roost per bird and all at the same height (you can have a lower one for "mid point access" but if there is room high, none will sleep on the lower one. Chickens are happiest if they are higher off the ground. A natural defensive feeling that "higher is safer".

If you have humidity in the coop it needs more ventilation. Whatever you can do as long as there are no drafts blowing over the birds. They can keep themselves plenty warm IF they can keep their natural feather insulation from blowing open and letting the warm air out.

You DON'T want to scrape the litter to bare floor ever, at least not in the winter. If they have 6-8" of shavings, they will make "day nests" to hang out in. Those inches of shavings are also a layer of insulation on the floor. My birds are never on the roosts during the day. I don't scoop poop, I use Deep Litter (*). I just run a garden rake through the top layer every morning. I don't think sweet PDZ is going to solve any humidity problems. Plus, if there isn't adequate ventilation, the ammonia from the birds' poop will build up. That is probably worse than humidity. Search for open front coops. If there is no way for the wind to blow through the coop, there is no draft, they are extremely well ventilated and the birds are comfortable. But to look at them without understanding the design, you would think the birds would freeze to death with a huge open front (covered in hardware cloth of course).

(*) True deep litter is almost really a compost pile with the floor being dirt and all the carbon and nitrogen based "litter" incorporating into it. My coop has a dirt floor with rubber horse mats on top and I only use pine shavings so it doesn't compost. But it isn't damp and isn't stinky.

 

[Our Roost]

Take some time to plan out the inside of your new shed. A few possible suggestions could be to insulate the lower half with insulation. An electrical outlet for a heated water dish and or electrical light to see what your doing on dark mornings or nights plus provide a little extra heat on extreme cold nights and days might work. And yes I also suggest adequate ventilation at top half of coop. If you notice humidity on the inside walls, you do not have enough.
Plan your nesting boxes close to but not at floor level. Roosts are generally above nesting box height. A nice shelve for whatevers is convenient. A small garbage can with lid is good for storing food inside the coop with a scoop for filling your feeders. Stock up on a couple of bales of straw before they are sold out for the winter. Do your thinking to make it easy maintenance. Clean your poop droppings regularly as they hold water and amonia. Good luck!

 

[bruceha2000]

Take some time to plan out the inside of your new shed. A few possible suggestions could be to insulate the lower half with insulation. An electrical outlet for a heated water dish and or electrical light to see what your doing on dark mornings or nights plus provide a little extra heat on extreme cold nights and days might work. And yes I also suggest adequate ventilation at top half of coop. If you notice humidity on the inside walls, you do not have enough.
Plan your nesting boxes close to but not at floor level. Roosts are generally above nesting box height. A nice shelve for whatevers is convenient. A small garbage can with lid is good for storing food inside the coop with a scoop for filling your feeders. Stock up on a couple of bales of straw before they are sold out for the winter. Do your thinking to make it easy maintenance. Clean your poop droppings regularly as they hold water and amonia. Good luck!

If you see humidity on the walls, I would say you are way WAY past not having enough ventilation.

 

[Pigglies]

I have a 4 foot x 8 foot coop with 5 cold hardy chickens. They have roosts, but prefer to use the rafters instead. Should I close off the "attic" for the winter to force them to roost lower? It's not really drafty up there. There are vents, but wind doesn't blow right through as they are house vents.

I live in Northern NY. Last winter it got down to -25, so I'm also looking for waterer ideas. I can change it a few times a day most days. No power in the coop.

By the way, for those of you who live where it is not very cold, it's already been in the 20s a few evenings here and the chickens do not seem to care at all.

 

[ketokinak]

Anyone try a panel heater? I just installed one made by 'cozy legs'. Roost bar is long enough that they can get close or stay far away. Seems much safer than a heat lamp.
(I am in Alaska, first winter with chickens)

 

[Our Roost]

Pigglies, Consider the known fact that warm air rises. People housing is insulated across the ceiling to keep heat in. It is also cross ventilated with roof vents and eave vents under the sofits for air circulation of the enclosed roof space. This is done so the space never gets colder or hotter than the outside temperature. The living space in your home has cold air returns that your furnace draws air from the home and reheats it during the winter and if you have air conditioning, it cools it in the summer. We try to keep the living space as comfortable as possible without roasting or freezing to death using this method amongst others.
Lets just say the upper portion of your coop is where trapped warm air, moisture, and amonia can be filtered out of your coop. Based on your living location, make sure air enters from one end of the coop and exits the other. You will have to decide how big or how little to make your holes. The bigger the coop, the bigger the ventilation holes. I used floor heater vents of 8x11 with the little slide tab for opening and closing off the vents as needed. this allows me to control the air flow during extremely cold days. You most likely have them on the floor inside your home. The local hardware store sells them. The lower portion of your coop or living space will be much more comfortable for the chickens if you do a few things to this area as well. A cold floor can be filled with straw and inside walls can be insulated or caulked for leaks. A few small windows can be added for sunlight. A heated water dish would be an excellent solution if you had electric but there are other alternatives you can read up on for something without electric. Your chickens usually roost higher than their nesting boxes. Its almost a given on most breeds. Keep your nesting boxes close to but not on the floor. Older chickens and mature birds have a hard time getting down from high roosts. They are not as agile as when they were younger. I provided a ramp as its hard to find a happy medium for all the birds. I hope some of this helps. Its just my opinion and how I have dealt with these issues in Michigan.