Lean-to Chicken Coop Roof & Ventilation (w. pic)

[mrtoren]

I may modify to a drop down nesting box by ripping out the 2x2 front frame and replacing it with a 2x4 frame that can accept a hinge. I've had no leaking issues with my top hinge nesting box on my 4x4 coop, but used a peak roof that perhaps channels the water away from it better.

I appreciate the comments on ventilation as that is the primary focus of the thread. I welcome any additional advice and (especially) photographs

 

[Krugerrand]

I may modify to a drop down nesting box by ripping out the 2x2 front frame and replacing it with a 2x4 frame that can accept a hinge. I've had no leaking issues with my top hinge nesting box on my 4x4 coop, but used a peak roof that perhaps channels the water away from it better.

I appreciate the comments on ventilation as that is the primary focus of the thread. I welcome any additional advice and (especially) photographs

How many chickens are you planning for? You may not need all of that nesting box space. Or, some of it could be storage space.

 

[mrtoren]

How many chickens are you planning for? You may not need all of that nesting box space. Or, some of it could be storage space.

We have six currently. The size of the coop and the number of nesting boxes will allow us to expand in the future without another build.

 

[Krugerrand]

We have six currently. The size of the coop and the number of nesting boxes will allow us to expand in the future without another build.

If at 4x8 you go up to 8 chickens, and at 4 chickens per box, you could do that with 2 nesting boxes. An extra one wouldn't hurt.

 

[mrtoren]

Wrapped up roof framing with trim boards and purlins last night. Used a 2x6 in the front for a little more coverage. Metal roof panels will go on tonight. Possibly framing out the two 20x30" windows as well.

Still debating adding some open vents along the top of the long wall with the nesting box. I would probably need to fashion a long, narrow door to be able to close off those vents during severe or prolonged storms. The top of the shorter long wall is a little more sheltered, but the roosts will be along that wall and it also receives wind from the north.

 

[3KillerBs]

I would probably need to fashion a long, narrow door to be able to close off those vents during severe or prolonged storms.

This is where top-hinged windows would be great.

Make the opening, cover it with hardware cloth, and hinge a cover above it to serve as a built-in awning.

 

[BobbieB7]

So, rain will only enter on the tall side if its blowing sideways, and in those cases, its the winds you have to worry about far more than the water. Further, most all of us screen that area with hardware cloth, which does a far better job than it should blocking windblown rains. I don't understand the physics of it.


If its deeply concerning to you, cut an angle on the front of the rafters so the edge is perpendicular to the ground, not angled as it is currently, and face it with a pressure treated 1x or 2x6 - such as the boards used as flooring on a deck. The additional overhange will interfere with air flow, creating a swirl which will further deter windblown rains.

Looking at the framing, your most likely place of water entry will be your nesting boxes - are you planning a top open hinged design? All/Any water blown against that wall is going to want to run right down it, straight into your hinge.

I totally agree I designed roof same way. I have no skills with building, but managed to get done. My neighbor is a contractor and the rafter cut was the first thing he noticed. When need to bring straight from top of board and bottom. If you don’t water will run back after cutting you can put fascia board on

 

[BobbieB7]

Wrapped up roof framing with trim boards and purlins last night. Used a 2x6 in the front for a little more coverage. Metal roof panels will go on tonight. Possibly framing out the two 20x30" windows as well.

Still debating adding some open vents along the top of the long wall with the nesting box. I would probably need to fashion a long, narrow door to be able to close off those vents during severe or prolonged storms. The top of the shorter long wall is a little more sheltered, but the roosts will be along that wall and it also receives wind from the north.

 

[BobbieB7]

You can see the difference in cut. If you already did roof you can still fix. Take your fascia off . Take your first purlin off. Take your speed square and mark a straight line down from top point down . You want your fascia to be more perpendicular ( straighter up and down. After you do first cut use piece as template.
Line up perfectly and clamp.
Mark with pencil. Important alway use the very first cut template
First photo shows the rafters cut wrong

 

[BobbieB7]

I used a board with three inches of hardware cloth staples on back of coop. Measured wrong on front so needed up cut in vents. HC was already stapled on