Lethargic chicks, not eating/drinking

[Saggybottomgirl]

I bought six chicks on Saturday from a local breeder. Of the six, two have died, both of them were SLW. I have one SLW left, and it is finally eating and not just standing around sleeping like the other two did. The rest of the chicks are perky (there are six in the brooder now as I had two other chicks in with them) and eating/sleeping/pooping fine. I'd like to figure this out so that the third chick doesn't die or if it is contagious, spread it to the others.

The chicks that have died stopped eating, slept most of the time and when I figured out we had a problem, I realized they were easily knocked over or steady on their feet. I gave them electrolytes and Poly vi Sol, it didn't help the second chick but perhaps that's what has perked up the third one. Outside of that, there is no other indications of what might be wrong with them but if it is contagious, I'd hate to lose the whole group. I'm in the process of cleaning the brooder out and putting in new bedding, etc... just in case.

1) Silver laced Wyandotte, approx 1 week old, the two felt definitely lighter than the others
2) Lethargic, sleeping most of the time, disheveled appearance
3) I noticed on Monday that the chicks weren't settling in as well as the others. The first one died Tuesday afternoon. The second one Wednesday morning.
4) None of the other chicks seem to be affected. Four more chicks came from the same bin.
5) No outward signs or issues.
6) Nothing out of hte ordinary happened.
7) The chicks have access to fresh water and medicated chick starter.
8) Normal as far as I could tell. The first one to die did have a little bit of poo stuck to its fluff.
9) Electrolytes and Poly vi Sol
10 ) The chicks are in a plastic tote with pine shavings and a heat lamp.

Thanks!

 

[Eggcessive]

It could be something the new chicks are catching from the other chicks, especially if the 2 were older, such as coccidiosis. Then again, the chicks could have simply been weak or from parent stock that wasn't healthy. Stress in transporting them could have been a possible cause. Do you have a thermometer on the floor of the brooder? Temperature should be 90-95 for the first week, and decreased by 5 degrees each week, always providing a cooler spot if they are overheated. If coccidiosis is a possibility, Corid or amprollium is the treatment at 2 tsp per gallon of the liquid or 1.5 tsp of the powder for 5 days, and treat all.

 

[Saggybottomgirl]

The first chicks are the same age and wonderfully healthy. They're Black Copper Marans.

We had issues with Cocci last year when we were brooding chicks, but it doesn't present the same and there is no blood. Would it hurt to treat them anyway?

 

[Eggcessive]

There are at least 9 strains of cocci, and just 2 cause bloody stools--it depends on what part of the intestines affected. Since Corid competes with the coccidia for thiamine, and isn't an antibiotic, it is pretty safe. Since your electrolytes helped, it could just be weakness or stress. But I would start treatment if any start puffing up or acting lethargic, or quit eating.

 

[Saggybottomgirl]

I'm going to go ahead and do it as the third chick is still a little disheveled and not quite as amped up as the others. It's loads more active than the other two but not on par with the rest. Thanks for the info! Hopefully we'll be able to get this last chick to hold on!

These are the babies. The two that didn't make it are probably the ones that are on the right hand side next to the Barred Rock chick (pretty confident he's a roo, ornery little cuss!) That isn't their permanent brooder, I took that picture on Sunday right before I moved them into the bigger one.

 

[Saggybottomgirl]

Is it ok to put vitamins in their water? If so, is it ok to mix that with the Corid?

 

[Eggcessive]

No, Corid should be given without anything else in it, and should be the only water source. If they are not drinking well, the Corid water can be fed with a dropper to make sure they are getting enough to help. When the Corid is finished after 5 days, vitamins and probiotics should be given for 3 days.

 

[Saggybottomgirl]

Got it! Thanks. I'll pick up some probiotics this weekend then.

 

[CrookdBeak13]

No, Corid should be given without anything else in it, and should be the only water source. If they are not drinking well, the Corid water can be fed with a dropper to make sure they are getting enough to help. When the Corid is finished after 5 days, vitamins and probiotics should be given for 3 days.

If they are on medicated chick feed, should the OP give the corid still or is it only Amprollium that is in the medicated feed?

 

[Eggcessive]

Most of the people on this forum who I trust with their many years of raising chickens have told me that they have never stopped medicated feed (with amprollium) while treating with Corid (amprollium) is that the amount in the feed is miniscule. Most chickens with full blown coccidiosis don't eat that well anyway.