Shipped eggs are different than the ones you put in the incubator yourself.
I would highly recommend you ask Sally on the incubation thread (It's long, but if you go to the end and post your questions/ask for help/resources, she's a walking infopedia.)
I had 8 shipped silkie eggs, 2 were infertile, 4 quit by week 1, and 2 have made it to lock down. I kept a higher humidity, and I have really bad saddled air sacs for them - I turned them by hand, I don't use an egg turner for shipped eggs, it jostles them too much. (and, based on recommendations sally gave me, I'm following her techniques, to try and improve hatching rates.) I have 2 left and we go into lock down this weekend, and i'm hoping both hatch. They are viable, at this point.
I just got 30 new silkie eggs shipped and prepped for my bigger bator. Same strategy as before, except... more so. I candled air cells, most of them looked okay, a couple were jiggly, and 2 were saddled really bad... 2 eggs were cracked enough I tossed them, 2 had tiny cracks, and I used liquid bandage to try to salvage them. All are in egg cartons, and I'm manually turning them by hand a few times a day, and keeping a close eye on temp and humidity.
Depending on breed, Sally may be able to write you specific instructions to optimize success, based on humidity and temp settings. Some eggs like different humidity settings, for example, my silkie eggs prefer higher humidity during the incubation process, but my cochin egg that hatched, did fine with lower humidity until lock down.
I've seen people on the incubation thread, have late hatchess, due to fluxs in temp in their incubator. They recommend rotating the eggs around in there, so eggs take turns in different spots, as well, to avoid having some eggs develop faster than other eggs, by hitting too warm patches, or too cold patches. This helps keep the eggs more even.
Shipped eggs, while having a lower hatching rate than ones you make yourself, you can, potentially increase the likelyhood of hatching success rates, by following some techniques specific to the issue with the egg too - jiggly air cells, vs. saddled air cells for example (or rolling air cells that were completely detached.)
If you haven't talked to Sally, I would highly recommend you do that, because your next batch may thank you.
I would highly recommend you ask Sally on the incubation thread (It's long, but if you go to the end and post your questions/ask for help/resources, she's a walking infopedia.)
I had 8 shipped silkie eggs, 2 were infertile, 4 quit by week 1, and 2 have made it to lock down. I kept a higher humidity, and I have really bad saddled air sacs for them - I turned them by hand, I don't use an egg turner for shipped eggs, it jostles them too much. (and, based on recommendations sally gave me, I'm following her techniques, to try and improve hatching rates.) I have 2 left and we go into lock down this weekend, and i'm hoping both hatch. They are viable, at this point.
I just got 30 new silkie eggs shipped and prepped for my bigger bator. Same strategy as before, except... more so. I candled air cells, most of them looked okay, a couple were jiggly, and 2 were saddled really bad... 2 eggs were cracked enough I tossed them, 2 had tiny cracks, and I used liquid bandage to try to salvage them. All are in egg cartons, and I'm manually turning them by hand a few times a day, and keeping a close eye on temp and humidity.
Depending on breed, Sally may be able to write you specific instructions to optimize success, based on humidity and temp settings. Some eggs like different humidity settings, for example, my silkie eggs prefer higher humidity during the incubation process, but my cochin egg that hatched, did fine with lower humidity until lock down.
I've seen people on the incubation thread, have late hatchess, due to fluxs in temp in their incubator. They recommend rotating the eggs around in there, so eggs take turns in different spots, as well, to avoid having some eggs develop faster than other eggs, by hitting too warm patches, or too cold patches. This helps keep the eggs more even.
Shipped eggs, while having a lower hatching rate than ones you make yourself, you can, potentially increase the likelyhood of hatching success rates, by following some techniques specific to the issue with the egg too - jiggly air cells, vs. saddled air cells for example (or rolling air cells that were completely detached.)
If you haven't talked to Sally, I would highly recommend you do that, because your next batch may thank you.