Looking for Advice about Ivermectin, etc.

[tcfoster]

Wanted to get some advice from you more experienced BYC members! I have a large coop with 8 hens (2 Black Sexlinks, 2 Gold Sexlinks, and 4 Laced Orpingtons). My smaller coop is for my Silkies, 3 hens and 2 roos. I have only been getting 1 or 2 eggs a day from my big girls, and we have added supplemental light. We are in CA and the weather is pretty mild, at this time last year we were getting 6-8 eggs a day. Over the last week or so I have noticed that several of my girls' combs are dull pale pink and a bit shriveled, although their feathers and eating/drinking habits seem fine. One of my gold girls has a few dark spots on her comb as well that won't rub off. I have decided I better treat them for worms/parasites/mites just in case, is Ivermectin in their water or on their skin the best way to go? Is Flubenvet better? And my other question is do I need to treat my Silkies even though they are in a different coop? They seem healthy and are laying fine but is it good to do as a preventative measure? The silkies are all about 8-9 months old. Thanks in advance - Ill try to get some pictures of the big girls tomorrow.

 

[Chickenluv22]

I've had hens who had dark spots on their combs and usually it's just because of other chickens pecking or external parasites like mites. Try using Poultry Protector, it's a spray that can help with mites, lice and other external parasites on chickens. Also check your chickens dropping in case they have any type of internal parasites just to be sure. Ive never used ivermectin on my birds, someone else may know what to do with that though. Hope this helped!

 

[rachelsflock]

I use ivermectin cattle pour-on for my birds. Small birds get a little less than 1/2 cc on the back under feathers, large birds get as much as 3/4, big birds in the neighborhood of 12-15 lbs get 1 cc, then I worm again 7-10 days later. The chickens seem to benefit from once a year since they live with duckers who muck up the water and chickens love muddy water as an occasional treat as opposed to their pristine closed chicken nipple waterer. 14 day withdrawl after last treatment is what most people observe, some do 10.

Worm if you want, they may benefit, but your birds sound like they might be going into a molt. I'd make the coop extra clean as you finish treatment so as to minimize the re-exposure. Proper worming once in a while can be good for their health and vigor.

 

[coach723]

If you want to worm and don't know what worm you are trying to treat, then either fenbendazole (Safeguard) or albendazole (Valbazen) would be your best choice - those are both direct dose orally. Some parasites have become resistant to ivermectin. It would be best to get a fecal test done if possible before worming, no need to treat if it's not the issue. Some vets will do it even if they don't see birds, some won't. There are also mail in options: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5SOZ...colid=27RHKHAM35GO&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
How old are your birds? Have you checked them over for signs of molt? A soft molt can be so gradual that it isn't obvious, look for pinfeathers coming in anywhere, look under wings. If any of them are in molt that will stop laying until they finish, and can make them look a bit pale and puny sometimes. While looking for pinfeathers look also for any signs of lice or mites. Dark spots could be from getting pecked (pictures would help). Hens in molt can be a bit testier than usual and want more space from each other.
https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/
https://www.wideopenpets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-molting-chickens/

 

[tcfoster]

Thank you all for your replies! This helps a lot. I was able to get a few photos of the dark spots on the comb. Sounds like it would be worth a de-worm/de-mite treatment just in case. Most of them already had a molt this year, so I don't think it would be another molt so soon.

 

[tcfoster]

If you want to worm and don't know what worm you are trying to treat, then either fenbendazole (Safeguard) or albendazole (Valbazen) would be your best choice - those are both direct dose orally. Some parasites have become resistant to ivermectin. It would be best to get a fecal test done if possible before worming, no need to treat if it's not the issue. Some vets will do it even if they don't see birds, some won't. There are also mail in options: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5SOZ...colid=27RHKHAM35GO&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
How old are your birds? Have you checked them over for signs of molt? A soft molt can be so gradual that it isn't obvious, look for pinfeathers coming in anywhere, look under wings. If any of them are in molt that will stop laying until they finish, and can make them look a bit pale and puny sometimes. While looking for pinfeathers look also for any signs of lice or mites. Dark spots could be from getting pecked (pictures would help). Hens in molt can be a bit testier than usual and want more space from each other.
https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/
https://www.wideopenpets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-molting-chickens/

Thank you! Do you know for the Safeguard or Valbazen if you can use the stuff that is for goats/cattle? I was looking for it on Ebay and they all seem to say for goats (or dogs).

 

[Kiki]

Thank you! Do you know for the Safeguard or Valbazen if you can use the stuff that is for goats/cattle? I was looking for it on Ebay and they all seem to say for goats (or dogs).

Yes. The goat one is perfect.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

Thank you all for your replies! This helps a lot. I was able to get a few photos of the dark spots on the comb. Sounds like it would be worth a de-worm/de-mite treatment just in case. Most of them already had a molt this year, so I don't think it would be another molt so soon.View attachment 1612254 View attachment 1612255

Dark spots on the comb looks like scabs from injury/pecking. Somebody probably nipped her or she drug it across wire in the run. Nothing to worry about