"Louisiana "La-yers" Peeps"

[AprilsFrizzles]

Does anyone know how long after you vaccinate chickens with the New Castle/IB vaccine it's ok to eat the eggs, or does it make a difference?

 

[kuntrygirl]

Hey Jeff. I have heard so many people say that their girls have stopped laying or have slowed up. I guess because of the time change?

 

[kuntrygirl]

Jeff, what do you use to de-worm? With so many chickens, how do you de-worm all of them at the same time?

 

[kuntrygirl]

Does anyone know how long after you vaccinate chickens with the New Castle/IB vaccine it's ok to eat the eggs, or does it make a difference?

I found this online for you.
http://www.smallscalelivestock.org/..._notes/cahw-en-module-nd_vaccination_1202.pdf

The vaccine is harmless. There is no problem if people wish to slaughter
chickens which have just been vaccinated. There is no problem if people
wish to eat eggs from chickens which have just been vaccinated.

 

[AprilsFrizzles]

I found this online for you.
http://www.smallscalelivestock.org/..._notes/cahw-en-module-nd_vaccination_1202.pdf

Oh awesome thank you!
I worm my chickens with the Wazine.

 

[PrimroseMom1]

Hey there Terri and the rest of ya'll La-yers and Byc-ers too

Terri I'm only getting about 6 to 12 eggs a day right now(from all of them/150ish or so

) my girls are taking a break/resting I reckon, LOL

So next week is the beginning of Dec. and coming up on the shortest daylight hours I'm going to give everbody a good de-worming and start them on a little higher protein diet for a month or so to get the ball back bouncing again. I don't feed them it too long as I can't justify the difference in feed prices for no more than I can get for the eggs anyway. But as soon as they get back in gear I will let you know and you will probly get the first bunch of eggs I have, as I won't be ready till late Feb/early Mar. to start up my hatching, I like to hatch closer to reg. season than too early, its too much trouble to keep them warm (cold nights/warm days) unless you are there 24/7 to regulate temps. Hav'nt forgot you, will keep you updated and #1 on the NH list.

Jeff

Hummmmm? De-worming??? How do you know if your chickens need de-worming and how do you do it?

 

[Cadjien_De_Louisiane]

Hummmmm? De-worming??? How do you know if your chickens need de-worming and how do you do it?

Pale combs and faces and gradual weight loss or a couple of signs or if you can see worms in the poop wich would mean an infestation. I use Wazine in the drinking water every 3-4 months followed by each a dose of Ivermec 12-14 days later, which is also good for external parasites also. But change it up every now and then. Wormazol Capsules for worms are easy to give but you gotta catch them all up individualy. I also give a table spoon of apple cider vinegar per gallon of water. for the first 7 days each month (just easy to remember when to do it) it lowers their ph level that parasites and bad bacteria cant thrive.

 

[MaddiWilliams]

Pale combs and faces and gradual weight loss or a couple of signs or if you can see worms in the poop wich would mean an infestation. I use Wazine in the drinking water every 3-4 months followed by each a dose of Ivermec 12-14 days later, which is also good for external parasites also. But change it up every now and then. Wormazol Capsules for worms are easy to give but you gotta catch them all up individualy. I also give a table spoon of apple cider vinegar per gallon of water. for the first 7 days each month (just easy to remember when to do it) it lowers their ph level that parasites and bad bacteria cant thrive.

I use the Wazine, but was wondering what dosage you use when giving Ivermec... Which product do you use exactly?

 

[catdaddyfro]

I use Wazine (piperazine) I do this a couple of times a year for preventative reasons I've never had an infestation by doing so I like to do this esp this time of the year as i don't have to chunk so may eggs after doing so (2weeks) to clean out of their systems before consuming meat or eggs. Don't know the dosage of Ivermectin per bird depends on the strength(%) of the product.

Kuntrygirl I water in 1 gallon drinkers/founts so its easy to distribute it out in the directed amount on the bottle by age/size of the birds. It has instructions for all different types of livestock on it available at most farm/animal supply stores.

The slowing of laying this time of year is due to the lesser amount of daylight hours (as chickens can't tell time

), LOL I got what you were referring to though

LOL It takes 14 hours of light stimulation to the pituitary gland is what in needed for a hens brain to secrete the hormones to tell her to go into full blown production mode. Also too this time of the year, the lesser light hours means less food consumption and also the cooler temps take some of the needed nutrients away from the production of eggs and puts this toward sustaining/regulating body temperatures. and this time.(lack of) also triggers hens to go into molt, therefore all the feed they eat is then turned into feather making/growing which are consisted of mostly dead proteins (keratin) which is the same things as hair, nails, skin, feathers, horn are created from. This takes a rich high protein diet to replace therefore egg production is placed on the back burner during this time. Then afterwards for a few weeks when the molt process is in and done, the hens will also use a lot of their feed nutrients and carbs to put on a fat layer/reserve for insulation for the cool months. All of this activity takes a lot of energy so the hens will usually rest a lot and are not as thrifty during these processes (of self preservation).

You can artificially stimulate the hens into production by adding lights to lengthen their daylight feeding hours and stimulate the brain to thinking its good to go and lay eggs also you can add heat to the their coops simulating a warmer season(like springtime), up the protein of their diets simulating an increase of rich foods which are more readily available in the warmer periods of the year. But in the end all this can take a toll on the hens and make them older than they really are due to stress. I like to let my girls go through this resting stage for a bit of time just to give them a break and keep them in good health for a long lengthy laying life and not wear them out in 2 years like those poor ol battery hens(google them if you want to see a wore out 2 year old layer). It cost a lot of money to raise up brand new pullets every year to replace old wore out 2 year olds, you'd have to have a pen full of young pullets growing out all year long to keep the "out with old and raggedy and in with the new frugal/thrifty layers"(not in my budget) I'm small scale/time on this account.

Good day to all ya'll La-yers and Byc-ers

Jeff

 

[kuntrygirl]

I wish it were that easy for me to de-worm. I have to handle each and every chicken. I can't put the med in the water because the ducks and geese tend to squeeze their bodies in the water pans/dishpans that are placed in the yard and ruin the water. So every year at night, I have to sneak out in the coops and grab each and every chicken from the roost and let the games begin.

I guess my girls can't tell the difference because they are still shooting out eggs.

I agree with the out with the old and in with the new. I have been dreading putting leg bands on them so that I can tell their ages but I think I can't NOT do it anymore. I have to know the old girls from the new girls. Not looking forward to that.