"Louisiana "La-yers" Peeps"

[LemonMeringue]

And just for good measure I do also use the Pumpkin seeds that I save. I toast them a bit in the oven and grind them in the food processor. Then they are stored in the freezer in an air tight container. I just pour some into any treats that I make them so that I am sure that they eat it all. They love it.

 

[LemonMeringue]

Lol!

 

[Cody A]

Pam, I've got the chicks on "Save a Chick" vitamin/electrolyte and probiotic. I'm mixing the ultra kibble with 30% game bird starter. I've read it's ok to feed them the game bird. Do you think it's ok or should I be feeding them chick starter?

I took this pic when I pulled the chicks out of the bator. The two lines are separated to toe punch. I thought you might like to see the slight color differences.

 

[Ron Skekel]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/727707/ivermectin-pour-on-dosage

I finally found this dosage rate for the ivermectin pour on.  I normally like to follow information from real science, like university studies that have proven what works and what doesn't.  Because there is so much mis-information out there!  But this is an off label product use, so I don't think I will be finding that for this product.  Although it is off label, I have seen charts where dosage rates are listed for the injectable Ivermectin.  And years back when we raised tropical birds our vet dosed a cockatiel for us to treat for mites with the injectable ivermectin.  It worked perfectly.  And I think that the use of Ivermectin pour on externally on chickens is off label only because there isn't any money in it.  There is no pay off for doing the studies etc. 

If there is a 10-14 day second treatment and then a 10 day (at least) withdrawal that takes up a lot of time.  But for the kids show poultry breeders (that we don't plan on eating, lol)  It is worth it to keep them healthy and not being subjected to their health being compromised by any worms or mites.  I inspect our chickens VERY regularly and have not seen any signs of mites.  But worms........well, chickens eat dirt, and sometimes taste a freshly laid steamy turd that the hen next to them just dropped.  So I'm pretty sure that all of my chickens need to be wormed at least once a year.  I didn't used to think so, but after this many years I really do.  Now that we have been worming they are just so much healthier and their feathers look great, body weight is up overall.  Happy Chickens. 

Good to know I will resurch it. Pam

 

[Ron Skekel]

Pam, I've got the chicks on "Save a Chick" vitamin/electrolyte and probiotic. I'm mixing the ultra kibble with 30% game bird starter. I've read it's ok to feed them the game bird. Do you think it's ok or should I be feeding them chick starter? I took this pic when I pulled the chicks out of the bator. The two lines are separated to toe punch. I thought you might like to see the slight color differences.

That should be good. I Don't use game bird starter but if you read it from a good source you should be fine. Has the foot straightened?

 

[Cody A]

Pam, the chicks feet look straight they're not splayed. It just doesn't want to stand up straight and walk compared to the other chicks. It will stand up straight but not for long. When all the chicks get up from sleeping and go eat in a group it tends to sleep at least when I'm watching. I can't be there all the time to see. I saw it poop and it looked like food so it is eating. When I set it beside the water it will drink a lot like it's not getting up often enough to drink. The chick doesn't seem to be as robust as the other chicks. It looks smaller when comparing head/beak size to the others. It's head is about the size of the pullet egg chicks. I think it may be just a weak chick. Maybe that's the reason it didn't finish zipping out. I can tell you when I'm hatching my own eggs for breeding purposes I won't be helping any out of their shells.

 

[MandaNola]

Omg..my assorted bantams were due to pip 2 days ago..... uhhhh...after candeling this evening, 1 has internally pipped. The other 3 are snug as a bug. Come on already... and my bantam amerucanas are due for pipping tomorrow... anxious chicken mom here

 

[campingshaws]

So if you guys were starting a chicken program with a focus on education, what breeds would you use? I'm thinking of EEs for egg diversity, and maybe silkies. I've even tried to figure out how to get hatches rotating so I could be hatching every week, for the kids to see, and selling the chicks at $1-2 just to offset feed a bit. But that's not a 2015 plan.

So EEs and silkies. Anything else cool? Maybe a jersey giant and a serama?

 

[Ron Skekel]

Pam, the chicks feet look straight they're not splayed. It just doesn't want to stand up straight and walk compared to the other chicks. It will stand up straight but not for long. When all the chicks get up from sleeping and go eat in a group it tends to sleep at least when I'm watching. I can't be there all the time to see. I saw it poop and it looked like food so it is eating. When I set it beside the water it will drink a lot like it's not getting up often enough to drink. The chick doesn't seem to be as robust as the other chicks. It looks smaller when comparing head/beak size to the others. It's head is about the size of the pullet egg chicks. I think it may be just a weak chick. Maybe that's the reason it didn't finish zipping out. I can tell you when I'm hatching my own eggs for breeding purposes I won't be helping any out of their shells.

You could try the tea cup or making a chick walker like camping did after a day and vitiamins it was fine. Pam

 

[birdman55]

There are 2 kinds of ivomec. One is injectable and one is not. I also know there is a specific dosage for routine worming, but I just don't have it anymore. I'm sure I will find it. This is just a routine thing before we get into real spring.

I thought you meant carved eggs before I saw the picture. But it looks painted. Pretty. I'm sure she is excited to share her craft in a magazine.

ivomec shouldn't be used for worming....its not effective anymore to worms....the worms have built a resistance to the med...you should use safeguard and dose 2 1/3 tbspn per gallon for five days and then wait ten and then redose for another five days....this will kill any capillary worms...or you can use valbazen and dose each bird orally at 1/2 ml/cc once and then wait ten days and then dose again for one day...I orally dose all of my birds so I know they are getting the right dose....and that's 50 birds...the 45 chickens just get it in the water...







Ivermectin

Liquid, paste Ivomec liquid, various brands of horse dewormer pastes Feed stores Kills scaley leg mites, and some internal worms SLM: Drip or rub liquid under leg scales.
Give paste orally.
Does not dilute well in water.
here is the website so you can understand what is the best and how to dose.
https://sites.google.com/a/poultrypedia.com/poultrypedia/medicine-chart
ivomec wheather its injectable or pour on...is used for MITES now and not really effective in worms

Pam, I've got the chicks on "Save a Chick" vitamin/electrolyte and probiotic. I'm mixing the ultra kibble with 30% game bird starter. I've read it's ok to feed them the game bird. Do you think it's ok or should I be feeding them chick starter?

I took this pic when I pulled the chicks out of the bator. The two lines are separated to toe punch. I thought you might like to see the slight color differences.

I would not give them high protein unless they are Cornish...they will grow to fast making them weaker...that's would be the reason y Cornish have leg problems cause they grow to fast...and you don't want avoidable problems in your birds...cause they will pass all the lovely nasty genetics to their offspring...I would use medicated chick starter...that would be why they have different types of chicken feed...(chick starter, chick grower, and layer mash..) because they are formulated with what the chickens need...(layer mash has extra calcium for the egg producers and cause have possibly fatal effect on chicks given to much calcium...im not an expert but I have done hundred of hours of research about different birds and there needs....the chick starter that is medicated has I believe low dosages of ampril (not sure spelling)...which builds up there coccidiosis (not sure spelling) immunity up so they can fight it off when they are older...if you don't give them the medicated feed they could have a weaker immune system...(all birds carry the coccidiosis disease)...but they build up immunity keeping it at bay....hope this helps