making upgrades to my 1202 gqf

[chad e]

I like that HatchCraft. Which way works better in side incubator or out? Does humidity hurt controller? How much did your controller setup cost? Was going to buy two going to build hatcher.

 

[chad e]

Examples of mounting the PID controller in my incubators.

Which controller is these? I can't find the tks4-14cn.

 

[HatchCraft]

Its actually autonics tk4s-14cn The controller mounted in the cabinet is the autonics. The other is a omron. Two considerations when mounting in the cabinet. Non condensing RH under 85 percent. This means if you have water condensing on the incubator window for example the humidity could be high enough to condense on the electronics and cause problems. The other is hatching fuzz which can be conductive at higher humidities . Damp fuzz in the controller could cause a malfunction. The controller sides are vented because they get hot. One advantage to mounting in the cabinet is the controller operates at constant temperature, no danger of getting too hot. If you keep your humidity under 85 percent and blow out the controller with compressed air once in a while , no problems . When mounting in a separate housing make sure the housing is vented . The controller life is shortened when they run hot. For a sportsman incubator I think I would favor mounting the controller externally. I have the advantage of testing my designs over many years so I know what works. Typical cost for the controller , relay and sensor about 100.00 Ebay has new relays under 10.00 and pt 100 sensors under 10.00 The omrons and autonics run between 60-70.00 . I don't recommend the really cheap PID . The better PID are designed for commercial use and will last a long time.
This prototype was a compromise. The controller is mounted in the cabinet but the electronic are sealed separate from the hatching area. The controller is an auber universal PID syl-2362 cost with shipping about 60.00 Make sure if you order a controller that it is the correct voltage (110 AC) if you are in the USA , that it has the ssr driver and check which type of pt 100 sensor it requires. PT 100 sensors come with 2 or 3 wires . Most newer controllers require the 3 wire sensor.

 

[R2elk]

Thanks for all of the information. I just looked at the spyder digital thermostats which one did you get R2elk? Where did you put your temperature probe ?

I got the Herpstat 1 because I wanted the three prong plug but it isn't necessary since the 1202 only had a 2 prong plug to begin with. Their cheapest model will work fine.

I currently have the temperature probe hanging over the center of the top tray at a level even with the center of the eggs. I made a ceramic egg and intend to insert the probe into the center of it, fill it with water and seal it and them place the egg in the top rack.

 

[chad e]

I got the Herpstat 1 because I wanted the three prong plug but it isn't necessary since the 1202 only had a 2 prong plug to begin with.  Their cheapest model will work fine.

I currently have the temperature probe hanging over the center of the top tray at a level even with the center of the eggs.  I made a ceramic egg and intend to insert the probe into the center of it, fill it with water and seal it and them place the egg in the top rack.

Do you have any pictures of what you did?

 

[chad e]

Thanks guys for all of the information. It has been very helpful.

 

[R2elk]

Do you have any pictures of what you did?

I will see what I can come up with later today.

 

[chad e]

Thanks I would appreciate it.

 

[R2elk]

Do you have any pictures of what you did?

Herpstat 1


Back of controller


Side of incubator


Back of incubator


Temperature probe


Heating element connection


I removed the top of the incubator to access the rear chamber in order to separate the heating element and controller from the electrical supply to the fan and auto-turner. You can accomplish the same thing by removing the back of the incubator. I cannot provide any images of the change in wiring in the back compartment because I did not take any photos at the time and do not feel like opening up the back section again.

Hope this is helpful to you. The on/off switch is not necessary but I like it better than having to pull the plug to shut the unit off. For the Spyder controller I just unplug the electric cord from the back of the controller when I am not using it. I always turn the fan on before I plug the cord back into the controller.

The same can be accomplished much cheaper by using the STC-1000 rather than the Spyder controller. The Spyder controller does allow you to apply an offset to the temperature probe's reading . I found my probe reading to be approximately 0.3°F low so I am using their temperature adjustment to keep the temperature right on the money.

Good luck.

 

[chad e]

Herpstat 1 Back of controller Side of incubator Back of incubator Temperature probe Heating element connection I removed the top of the incubator to access the rear chamber in order to separate the heating element and controller from the electrical supply to the fan and auto-turner. You can accomplish the same thing by removing the back of the incubator. I cannot provide any images of the change in wiring in the back compartment because I did not take any photos at the time and do not feel like opening up the back section again. Hope this is helpful to you. The on/off switch is not necessary but I like it better than having to pull the plug to shut the unit off. For the Spyder controller I just unplug the electric cord from the back of the controller when I am not using it. I always turn the fan on before I plug the cord back into the controller. The same can be accomplished much cheaper by using the STC-1000 rather than the Spyder controller. The Spyder controller does allow you to apply an offset to the temperature probe's reading . I found my probe readingto be approximately 0.3°F low so I am using their temperature adjustment to keep the temperature right on the money. Good luck.

Thanks that helps.