tifanicole
In the Brooder
Thanks @junebuggena @Molpet
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They were hatched last Monday and I received them in the mail on Tuesday afternoon.
Exactly. After seeing how well my chicks do in the cool temps of 50-60 deg (which makes sense 'cause those are Spring temps!) I can't imagine the poor things that are kept at 90 deg constantly.People tend to worry far too much that their chicks will be cold when the opposite is almost always the case.
One thing that I ran into that bears emphasis, IMO, is to watch out for places where they can work themselves into and get stuck/trapped. Like at the back end of MHP, especially if you've got it slanted down, front to back (which I do, and like) and up against the brooder wall. They can get all jammed back in there and then you've got one or more being pushed up and behind, and getting trapped. For reference, I'm using a cooling rack with smaller "feet" (bolts) in the back than front. And I had a close call.Keep it simple. Too many try to overcomplicate this, get frustrated, and give up. All you need is a heating pad that does not automatically shut off, an adjustable frame, and something to protect the pad from poo. Remember, the chicks must be able to touch the pad to get warm. It's a contact method, not an ambient air temp method.
Having at least the back, if not the sides too, open for egress is essential, IMO, especially the more chicks you have.One thing that I ran into that bears emphasis, IMO, is to watch out for places where they can work themselves into and get stuck/trapped. Like at the back end of MHP, especially if you've got it slanted down, front to back (which I do, and like) and up against the brooder wall. They can get all jammed back in there and then you've got one or more being pushed up and behind, and getting trapped. For reference, I'm using a cooling rack with smaller "feet" (bolts) in the back than front. And I had a close call.
There can also be a negative for a slanting design, as there can be a tendency for those at the back to get jammed back in there in the "corner." The narrower the angle, the more the risk. I raised the back end up by putting it on some wood and then filled up the back with rolled up towel to fill the gap. That still allows them to cuddle back in the cave but without the tightness that can result in one or more being squeezed down. And also no way to get back and behind and get trapped.
Another possibly safer approach is to leave it more open like the brooder heat plates, and give a bit of room on all sides from the brooder walls. That prevents the squeezing and entrapment risks.
This all depends on exactly how you've got it constructed so there will be different trouble spots for different designs. Just look at yours with this in mind. Lots of ways to approach this, of course. As many ways as there are variations on this method; which is no doubt a lot!
I hope all that makes sense.
I'll be making some more permanent modifications for my next go around, which may or may not be next year.
Keep it simple. Too many try to overcomplicate this, get frustrated, and give up. All you need is a heating pad that does not automatically shut off, an adjustable frame, and something to protect the pad from poo. Remember, the chicks must be able to touch the pad to get warm. It's a contact method, not an ambient air temp method.
Agreed.Having at least the back, if not the sides too, open for egress is essential, IMO, especially the more chicks you have.
Being able to quickly, easily, and safely lift the pad to check on them when you hear that distress cheeping is important for me too.