I'm building a covered run for my coop that is 4' deep x 6' long by 5' high.
How much hardware cloth should I buy?
How much hardware cloth should I buy?
Last edited:
Math help needed! (Figuring out how much hardware cloth for run.)
- Thread starter peepie
- Start date
- Feb 26, 2011
- 21
- 4
- 24
Are you going to bury the hardware cloth below ground level around the perimeter of the run?
- Thread starter
- #3
I was thinking I would run the apron of wire around the perimeter rather then burying it.
Keep buying rolls as you go along..?
- Thread starter
- #5
Quote:
Ugh, would most like to avoid this situation. I'm not that worried about the perimeter but I would like to get the right amount for the run
.
Ugh, would most like to avoid this situation. I'm not that worried about the perimeter but I would like to get the right amount for the run
- Feb 26, 2011
- 21
- 4
- 24
Well you will need 20' to wrap around the run once.
2 - 6' walls and 2 - 4' foot walls.
Unfortunately, I have only seen 2', 3' and 4' tall rolls so you will have to wire two pieces together. If you go with a 4' roll you can wrap around once and then cut a foot off for a second wrap. that will leave you with a 3' piece that will be 20 feet long for the roof. So basically you will need at least a 4'x40' roll.
Hope this helps.. or made any sense...
2 - 6' walls and 2 - 4' foot walls.
Unfortunately, I have only seen 2', 3' and 4' tall rolls so you will have to wire two pieces together. If you go with a 4' roll you can wrap around once and then cut a foot off for a second wrap. that will leave you with a 3' piece that will be 20 feet long for the roof. So basically you will need at least a 4'x40' roll.
Hope this helps.. or made any sense...
Quote:
Is your run already built? If so, the main factor in your calculations will be where your existing vertical and horizontal supports are, because ideally you will want to fasten the edges of the wire to wood both horizontally and vertically.
And, of course, how many feet of wire you need is directly related to the width of the wire you purchase (you'd need twice as much 24" wide wire than if you purchased 48" wide wire, for example).
If I had to cover the shape you describe, what I would do is use 24" wide wire and run it vertically. This would likely mean that you'd need to add some more vertical supports at 24" on center on the sides for attaching the edges of the wire. You could cut 7 or 8 foot lengths and bend the wire outward at the baseboard to form your apron. If you figure on 8 feet (giving you a generous 3 foot apron), then you'd need to make 10 panels of 24" wide wire at 8 feet in length = 80 feet.
Don't forget that you lose some wire every time you make a cut because you'll want to trim off the sharp protruding wire ends.
Is your run already built? If so, the main factor in your calculations will be where your existing vertical and horizontal supports are, because ideally you will want to fasten the edges of the wire to wood both horizontally and vertically.
And, of course, how many feet of wire you need is directly related to the width of the wire you purchase (you'd need twice as much 24" wide wire than if you purchased 48" wide wire, for example).
If I had to cover the shape you describe, what I would do is use 24" wide wire and run it vertically. This would likely mean that you'd need to add some more vertical supports at 24" on center on the sides for attaching the edges of the wire. You could cut 7 or 8 foot lengths and bend the wire outward at the baseboard to form your apron. If you figure on 8 feet (giving you a generous 3 foot apron), then you'd need to make 10 panels of 24" wide wire at 8 feet in length = 80 feet.
Don't forget that you lose some wire every time you make a cut because you'll want to trim off the sharp protruding wire ends.
- Thread starter
- #8
Quote:
Is your run already built? If so, the main factor in your calculations will be where your existing vertical and horizontal supports are, because ideally you will want to fasten the edges of the wire to wood both horizontally and vertically.
And, of course, how many feet of wire you need is directly related to the width of the wire you purchase (you'd need twice as much 24" wide wire than if you purchased 48" wide wire, for example).
If I had to cover the shape you describe, what I would do is use 24" wide wire and run it vertically. This would likely mean that you'd need to add some more vertical supports at 24" on center on the sides for attaching the edges of the wire. You could cut 7 or 8 foot lengths and bend the wire outward at the baseboard to form your apron. If you figure on 8 feet (giving you a generous 3 foot apron), then you'd need to make 10 panels of 24" wide wire at 8 feet in length = 80 feet.
Don't forget that you lose some wire every time you make a cut because you'll want to trim off the sharp protruding wire ends.
This makes a lot of sense. For some reason in my mind I had this idea that I had to run it horizontal but after looking at the coop gallery I can see how vertical makes more sense. The run is getting built next week so I will make the adjustments for added supports. Thank you!
Is your run already built? If so, the main factor in your calculations will be where your existing vertical and horizontal supports are, because ideally you will want to fasten the edges of the wire to wood both horizontally and vertically.
And, of course, how many feet of wire you need is directly related to the width of the wire you purchase (you'd need twice as much 24" wide wire than if you purchased 48" wide wire, for example).
If I had to cover the shape you describe, what I would do is use 24" wide wire and run it vertically. This would likely mean that you'd need to add some more vertical supports at 24" on center on the sides for attaching the edges of the wire. You could cut 7 or 8 foot lengths and bend the wire outward at the baseboard to form your apron. If you figure on 8 feet (giving you a generous 3 foot apron), then you'd need to make 10 panels of 24" wide wire at 8 feet in length = 80 feet.
Don't forget that you lose some wire every time you make a cut because you'll want to trim off the sharp protruding wire ends.
This makes a lot of sense. For some reason in my mind I had this idea that I had to run it horizontal but after looking at the coop gallery I can see how vertical makes more sense. The run is getting built next week so I will make the adjustments for added supports. Thank you!
Quote:
You're welcome! Something else to think about. If you build wood frame panels, lay them flat on the ground, then lay the wire on top and fasten it, it's much easier than fastening wire to a vertical surface. However, 24 inch wide wire is much easier to manage than 48 inch wide wire so either way it shouldn't be too bad of a job. If you start fastening at the top of the frame, gravity helps avoid too many buckles and waves in the wire.
You're welcome! Something else to think about. If you build wood frame panels, lay them flat on the ground, then lay the wire on top and fasten it, it's much easier than fastening wire to a vertical surface. However, 24 inch wide wire is much easier to manage than 48 inch wide wire so either way it shouldn't be too bad of a job. If you start fastening at the top of the frame, gravity helps avoid too many buckles and waves in the wire.
- Apr 1, 2011
- 9
- 0
- 7
Good pointers thanks!
Similar threads
New posts New threads Active threads
-
Latest threads
-
-
When does the OCD end and the acceptance begin? (Duck Mess)- Started by DoodlesDuckies
- Replies: 0
-
-
-
Heritage RIR & wheaten or french wheaten maran hatching eggs?
- Started by E flowers
- Replies: 0
-
-
Threads with more replies in the last 15 days
-
-
-
-
Open Contest BYC's 4th of July Star Spangled Hatch-Along—Stars, Stripes, & Feathers, a Text-to-Image Contest- Started by Debbie292d
- Replies: 109
-
-
