Mealworm farming

[bbsnooks]

Has anyone had trouble with pupae dying off in large numbers? This latest round I've lost about 75% of them which amounts to well over a hundred. They look fine until about 1 week into the pupal stage when they turn black. Some are dry and some are squishy when I pick them out.

They've been kept at room temperature (70-75F) the entire time.

EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention is the beetles born from this batch -- the ones not dying as pupae -- are dying within 2-3 days. Pupal stage looks completely normal. They hatch without issue but die while still medium brown in color.

Hello every one.. I'm just back on line for a while..
nice to read up on the Idea's here.. and the excitement of the first hatch.. first beatle.. and mites..
I've been raising them less than a year.. and have tried to do it right and probably got it wrong several times..
however .. they are resiliant.. and have come back from my abuse every time..

I wanted to comment on snakes post.. of die off.. I had a bad case of similar happening's.. even after sorting < i've got to find a better way.!> and putting in new wheat bran. I dont see any infestation < no microscope tho> i had been real excited of the increase in growth.. after i nearly killed them in the heat.. drying them out after getting too much humidity ie.. killitng them with kindness.
I'm not giving up.. yet. It sure is disapointing to have them .. get to large worm /or pupae stage then turn black and die..

I think i'm on 4 generation and its not been worth the effort and cost so far.. and i'm sure its operator error..
that said.. the chicken population is booming.. up to 50 some. just for fun.

snakes i for sure dont have any solutions.. but do have an ample amount of empathy. one difference for my colony.. the beatles are living .. the die off for me is mostly med to large worms and pupae.


I have found one trick that works pretty well i'd like to share.. after sifting the frass and removing the dead..
I've been putting the fine powder w/ eggs.. into one of the plastic type feed bags.. < for dog food or chick food>
One that.. they cant chew thru.
Then after about a week feed with veggies/ carrots. and recover what would have been many lost babies..
If you dont like to pick up with your hands.. I've used a remnant of window screen that they'll climb right threw to get the fruit.
i came by this.. not wanting to add too much moisture.. I have a small piece of screen slightly curved to put the cucumber peals on and a few hours later being able to retrieve the vegetable peals easily and retrieve the baby worms to put back in the bin..
I continue this and for several weeks i can recover the micro worms..
then.. i use the frass for fertilizer in garden.

thats all for now..

 

[snakes]

It's just a cheap Wal-Mart timer. It's a Woods brand, with tabs, each covering a 15 minute interval, that you push in to set it, about as basic and simple as you can get.

Sounds similar to what I have except there's only enough tabs to come on and off 3 times per day.

I looked for a simple Woods timer but the smallest interval available is 30 minutes. I think that's too long -- twelve hours of heat per day will fry them unless I stretch the off intervals to 1 hour or more. The bins seem to cool down pretty fast though.

 

[azygous]

Snakes, I've also noticed there's a hot spot in the center, and most of the small fry are congregating in the far corners. The larger worms seem to enjoy the hot spot. So, if your tray is large enough, kind of like chicks in a brooder, they will be able to move away from where it may be too warm for them.

 

[southernblubird]

Hello All ~ I am doing the three drawer method and started with 1,000 mealies living on oats and bran. I am having an issue with my pupae dying off as well. Very disappointed. My worms are fat, healthy and have small number of deaths. Couple questions:
1. Pupae are kept between two layers of paper towels in their own drawer. Should I use oats/bran?
2. Do pupae need to be kept at a certain temperature? Our home has been very cool this winter and stays around 68 degrees, though there are some nights that have been in low 60's, burrrr.
3. Are they really dead or just in transition? I assumed death because they are firm and give no response when touched.

I am determined to make this little venture work, but do not want to spend much on these guys. I am leery about providing a heat source. What are your thoughts? Much thanks!

 

[crazy huhn]

If they are not black, they are not dead. Temperature is OK. I have some pupae stored in colder temperatures and they are just fine. It might take just a little longer until they will transform into beetles. I personally would not spend any money on heating pads or heating any sheds/rooms. I just leave it the way it is on my patio and/or spare bedroom, but I do have LOTS of containers and always enough worms for my chickens and other people to sell the worms to.

 

[southernblubird]

Phew. Thanks! I had hoped it was me just me being a newb. So thankful for everyone's help on this site

 

[chrissyr]

If they are not black, they are not dead. Temperature is OK. I have some pupae stored in colder temperatures and they are just fine. It might take just a little longer until they will transform into beetles. I personally would not spend any money on heating pads or heating any sheds/rooms. I just leave it the way it is on my patio and/or spare bedroom, but I do have LOTS of containers and always enough worms for my chickens and other people to sell the worms to.

Phew. Thanks! I had hoped it was me just me being a newb. So thankful for everyone's help on this site

They do slow down in cooler temps, but depending on where you are I'd be leaving them in a garage or outside patio. They would probably die off then. In these freezing temps it won't be good for them. Also, make sure they have plenty of greens. I believe I read back that moisture is related to hatch rate. So you don't want to be too low. I like sliced apples for mine. They seem to eat it up quickly and there's not much leftovers. If they aren't eating it quickly or it starts smelling off, you've given them too much. Just wanted to throw in my $.02. Perhaps it can help

 

[southernblubird]

Thanks for the help. These guys are tucked away in the laundry room. The worms do have carrots and potatoes that get changed out every 3-4 days. I keep a close eye on the potatoes to avoid mold. They devour the carrots and play king of the mountain on the potatoes. Do they pupae need access to oats/bran/veggies as well?

 

[sueblack]

I keep pupa on a thin layer of wheaa..t bran (less than 1/2"). They cant eat , so they dont need carrots or other moisture source. As they hattch I move them to another tote with bran and small piece of carrot for them to breed in.

 

[chrissyr]

Thanks for the help.  These guys are tucked away in the laundry room.  The worms do have carrots and potatoes that get changed out every 3-4 days.  I keep a close eye on the potatoes to avoid mold.  They devour the carrots and play king of the mountain on the potatoes.  Do they pupae need access to oats/bran/veggies as well?

Now I can't be sure, but it's somewhere in this thread about moisture. From going to pupae to beetle I BELIEVE they still need moisture. Some of mine had funky wings as beetles and was told it's related to moisture from pupae to beetle. So although they aren't drinking/eating- I keep it the same. I add some veggies, and change it 1-2 days. Not much, but it works for me. I ALWAYS have veggies (I like apples) for the egg bin. #1- humidity is needed for hatching is what I believe. And #2- you may THINK they haven't hatched but they're hard to see for a few weeks.
I could be wrong, but this has worked for me