Medicated Feed vs. Un-Medicated Feed and Supplements

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A couple of comments about "the friend up the road" advice:

1) If one looks up the criteria for "organic", if memory serves me correctly, a commercially produced feed would not qualify either.

2) Feeding chicks too much protein may cause other problems altogether. You don't want them growing too fast. Check out "The Chicken Health Handbook" and other threads on BYC.

3) "If they arrive healthy from the hatchery and you raise them healthy, they'll be just fine" is not necessarily true. The primary function of medicated chick starter is to prevent and control Coccidiosis. There are many other diseases that a chick may bring from a hatchery that have incubation periods where the disease would not show up for weeks to months. As for Coccidiosis, all chicks have it. The medicated feed simply keeps the levels down at an appropriate controllable level.

4) besides, if you want to sell organic eggs, you don't want to have to explain why there is medication in their feed!" This is a foolish statement. By the time a bird starts laying eggs, the chicks are long past being fed any medicated feed. No explanation would be necessary because you will have them on Layer Rations well before they begin laying.

To the OP, if you are going to put any of them on medicated feed, then I would recommend putting them all on medicated feed.

You can take them off of medicated feed and switch them over to non-medicated chick starter before 18 weeks. I would only do so if you will be moving them to a breeder that will greatly lessen the propensity that they will be eating their own feces. For example, once the chicks are able to fly out of my initial hatching brooder (a rubbermaid stock tank with wood shaving in the bottom), I move them to the outside brooder which has a screen bottom. And I would only do so then if you have not experienced any bloody stools or such. If you are seeing bloody stools, keep them on the medicated.

Try Rooster Booster for the stress but my recommendation is to separate them out until they are old enough were you can begin to introduce them all and let the final pecking order be established without risk of injury or death.

I hope that helps.

God Bless,

This helps tremendously. Thank you so much! The coccidiosis is what makes me nervous. I didnt realize they all pretty much always have it. I have not noticed real bloody stool but occasionally I see a red tint here and there which would make sense.

Do you know where I would aquire Rooster Booster?

And what are your thoughts on worming out of curiosity?
 
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I got eight vaccinated chicks that I have raised on non medicated feed. They are the fattest, healthiest, glossiest, super chickens I have ever seen.
That said, I think everyone has to do what feels personally comfortable for themselves, and no one else.
I doubt either method gaurantees any particular outcome.
 
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I have to agree.

I use the Coccidiosis treatment (once every 6 to 8 months) that goes in the water for 3 days and deworm them all at the same time.

I do not wait until my birds are sick and dying, I just treat when the weather starts getting hot and the flies are numerous.
 
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I have to agree.

I use the Coccidiosis treatment (once every 6 to 8 months) that goes in the water for 3 days and deworm them all at the same time.

I do not wait until my birds are sick and dying, I just treat when the weather starts getting hot and the flies are numerous.

With poults and peachicks I keep them on wire and medicate starter for 2 to 3 months.
With chicken chicks I keep them on medicated starter for 8 weeks.

The vaccinated chicks have not been vaccinnated for coccidiosis thats what medicated feed is for. all ground has coccidiosis the medicated feed give the chicks time to build a immunity.

Yes worm all birds 3 times a year.
 
I know when I started out with my chicks, I fed them non-medicated feed. I had an order of 25 chicks that I split with two other people. I kept 7, 13 went to one person and 5 to another. The other two fed medicated feed. I kept my chicks in a brooder until they were mostly feathered out and the weather warmed enough for them to be outside under shelter with no additional heat. When I compared my 7 to the others, mine seemed to be twice the size of the other birds.

I have noticed that the couple of times I grabbed a bag of medicated feed in error, my chicks didn't do so good. My chickens are not allowed free range due to the fact that I am in the city, and my dogs want to have fresh chicken all the time.
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However I do toss them a bag of salad greens twice a week, they have plenty of water and they have access to feed and water 24/7 and a big thing of grit. Plus whatever other treats I throw them.

My birds all are healthy, are growing at a normal rate, and starting to lay on schedule.
 
I have used medicated feed on all chicks that I have shiped in and I hatch out fro 8 weeks then I use a non-medicated feed...
I think that Amprolium is the "medication" used in most medicated feed.

Amprolium
Chemical group: thiamine analog
Trade names: Corid, Amprol
Mode of action: thiamine analog, competitively inhibits the active transport of thiamine. The coccidia are 50 times as sensitive to this inhibition as is the host.
Pharmacokinetics: Freely soluble in water.
Dose: In dogs and cats: "extra label use": 300 to 400 mg/kg, SID for 5 days or 110 to 220 mg/kg SID for 7 to 12 days.
In chickens: For prevention of coccidiosis: 36.3 - 113.5 g/ton in the feed or in the drinking water at 0.012%. No withdrawal is needed.
Toxicity: May cause thiamine deficiency if given at high rates.
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University of Pennsylvania 2004


Chris
 
Im noticing the wormer seems to be done in the water?

Where you get the wormer?

If you do it 3 times a year, do you use a different kind everytime?

What age do you start worming?
 
Depending on where you live you do not have to deworm 3xs a year. I deworm as soon as the weather gets hot and my chickens are healthy and fine.

When I do worm I also treat for Coccidiosis, both treatmeant applications go in the water.

You can use your search engine and type in chicken dewormer and come up with a few different ones. I always purchase off the internet for that.

Just remember when you do deworm you may has well get an incubator ready because you are not suppose to eat the eggs during and up to 10 days after treating. I have found that the eggs will hatch though.
 
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I live in the New England. Does that change how often should I worm?

And what age? Mine are anywhere from 2 weeks to 6 weeks old right now.

I also just took a good look at my feed bag, and apparently I have been feeding unmedicated all natural, my friend works at the grain mill, I love him to death but he isnt always on the ball lol.

Any benefit to starting mediciated now? Im just afraid of coccidiosis. Or could I get a treatment now for that? Because I have noticed some slight bloody stools.
 
If you have noticed bloody stool, I would buy a treatment and go ahead and treat them through their water instead of switching feed. I do not use medicated feed and treat through water around 2 months and then 5 to 6 months before putting them with the flock. From there I treat when the weather starts getting hot.
 

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