Metal shed

[aje127]

I"m going to second what Boppo said above - ventilation is key. Chickens can survive down to -20F easily, as long as they have a draft free area to roost at night, are not wet, and have adequate ventilation above their heads. Rule of thumb is 3 sq ft ventilation per chicken in the coop, more if you live in hot/humid climate. I wouldn't worry about insulating that shed, but I would worry about ventilation a lot. If you keep the interior and exterior at about the same temp due to lots of ventilation year round, condensate may not be much of an issue, if at all.

Good luck!!!

So do you think the 3 windows I have for it will be enough or should I put some vents near the roof?

 

[aje127]

Windows are helpful, but don't create sufficient airflow alone.

You need top-level venting to allow heat and ammonia to get out.

Love the diagram. Thank you

 

[3KillerBs]

Love the diagram. Thank you

You're welcome.

 

[aje127]

Don't bother with insulation, just open up LOTS AND LOTS of ventilation.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

If you show us more photos of the building from different angles we might be able to make suggestions for optimal venting.

Don't bother with insulation, just open up LOTS AND LOTS of ventilation.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

If you show us more photos of the building from different angles we might be able to make suggestions for optimal venting.

 

[aje127]

Not really. Lots of people in your climate use metal sheds without insulation. Just like the wild birds that overwinter where you are, the insulation they need is their feathers. What they need is a place where they can be out of breezes strong enough to ruffle their feathers and mess with that insulation.

It is certainly possible you can have a condensation issue with your metal shed, especially in early spring. It may be beneficial to insulate your roof in a way to stop that condensation. That's the only reason I'd insulate, if condensation is a problem. It may not be.

In winter another risk is frostbite. Moving from Florida you may not know this but if you go outside with wet hands, feet, or a wet face when it is below freezing you are susceptible to frostbite. Especially if there is a breeze for wind chill. The air in your coop can become moist from their breathing. wet poop, or your water dish. Good ventilation gets that moist air out. How do you have enough ventilation to get rid of moisture without having a breeze blowing on them? There are different techniques but the one I like is to have your ventilation openings over their head.

In summer heat is an issue. Hot air rises so ventilation up high gets rid of hot air. It can help to have a place for cooler air to come in to replace that hot air. I suggest a vent down low in the shade. In Kentucky that means the north or northeast side of the coop. You can close that in winter to keep breezes out. In a taller walk-in 15' x 15' coop ventilation is not as important as it would be in a tiny coop, but it is still important.

Since the sun is hottest on your south and west sides I'd try to put the nests on the opposite walls so they don't get as hot. You don't want the nests to become an oven.


How is the drainage in that area? If water drains to it or water stands in that area I'd do the concrete. You do not want a coop with a wet floor. If the floor stays dry there is nothing wrong with a dirt floor. I prefer dirt, it is softer, but it needs to stay dry.

People use straw, hay, wood shavings, wood chips, sand, dirt, grass clippings, dried leaves, and who knows what else for bedding. Some people turn their coop floor into a compost pile so kitchen wastes, garden wastes and excess, and many other things may go on that pile. No matter which one you choose somebody will explain why you can't use it, and for some people it is not the best. We all have different conditions. But there are people that use all those successfully. It's a case of finding what works for you.

I think the ground in the shed feels moist (to me. I still like to go barefoot even here in Ky). It's clay-ish. Should I put more dirt on top? Different type of dirt? I just figured concrete would make it easier to clean.

 

[Poultrybonkers]

My metal shed rusted all the vents didnt work door rusted right off has rusted holes in it not worth it for a coop

 

[3KillerBs]

I suggest starting by opening up the gable triangles and the strip at the top of the wall and replacing the metal with hardware cloth -- the places I've colored blue.

Your goal is to have the temperature and humidity inside the same as outside. As long as the birds are out of the wind they'll be fine.

I think the ground in the shed feels moist (to me. I still like to go barefoot even here in Ky). It's clay-ish. Should I put more dirt on top? Different type of dirt? I just figured concrete would make it easier to clean.

We priced concrete for a workshop floor and decided that the existing gravel was good enough because it's gotten so very expensive to have a floor poured,

I'm a great fan of Deep Bedding/Deep Litter -- though you'd want a wire apron outside to deter digging predators. With adequate ventilation the bedding should stay perfectly dry and odor-free.

 

[aje127]

View attachment 3346466

I suggest starting by opening up the gable triangles and the strip at the top of the wall and replacing the metal with hardware cloth -- the places I've colored blue.

Your goal is to have the temperature and humidity inside the same as outside. As long as the birds are out of the wind they'll be fine.



We priced concrete for a workshop floor and decided that the existing gravel was good enough because it's gotten so very expensive to have a floor poured,

I'm a great fan of Deep Bedding/Deep Litter -- though you'd want a wire apron outside to deter digging predators. With adequate ventilation the bedding should stay perfectly dry and odor-free.

Thank you very much. I will take your advice.

 

[aje127]

View attachment 3346466

I suggest starting by opening up the gable triangles and the strip at the top of the wall and replacing the metal with hardware cloth -- the places I've colored blue.

Your goal is to have the temperature and humidity inside the same as outside. As long as the birds are out of the wind they'll be fine.



We priced concrete for a workshop floor and decided that the existing gravel was good enough because it's gotten so very expensive to have a floor poured,

I'm a great fan of Deep Bedding/Deep Litter -- though you'd want a wire apron outside to deter digging predators. With adequate ventilation the bedding should stay perfectly dry and odor-free.

What do you use for bedding

 

[3KillerBs]

What do you use for bedding

The foundation is coarse wood chips. We had tree work done and had them dump the truckload of chips in an out of the way place.

I also use the pine straw and other yard waste.

From time to time I get a bale of straw and let them tear it apart as a boredom buster.