Michigan Thread - all are welcome!

Yeah, she had mentioned that they were for coyote control. Hence why I waited outside of the fence for Caroline to show up when she was going to show me her yaks. Anytime you need to calculate if you would need to beat that critter to the gate, its a good idea to just avoid contact with said critter, at least until there's somebody else there who can at least dial 911 if you don't make it to the gate.
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LOL! You're a wise man. They are big bluffers, though, honestly. All you have to do is stomp your foot at them and they will turn around to run the other way. They're definitely smart enough to know that 'two-leggers' are at the top of the totem pole. I have one cow who I absolutely do not take any chances with, if she has just had a baby. When she's got a calf at her side she will not back down. I can only enter a pasture, in that case, if I'm on the Gator. She has even horned the Gator a couple of times. She's nuts. Only reason I keep her around is because she gives us really nice calves every year. There have been two occasions where I got knocked. The first was from a big steer who was going after my Goldendoodle. ****** dog was tormenting him, then ran to hide behind me. I was doing something else at the time, and not paying attention to what was going on. He was already running toward her, and all he saw was her. His horn got me from my belly button up to my neck. Lucky for me, he realized what the situation was at the last second, and checked himself. I had a big bruise, but nothing else. The second time was Norbhu. I had been recovering from foot surgery, and had just graduated to a walking cast. I needed some outside time after being cooped up in the house for weeks. I wrapped a trash bag over my cast and went out to visit the animals, treat bucket in hand. As I limped into the corral, Norbhu excitedly ran to greet me. I didn't put the bucket down fast enough for him, so he pushed me up against the wall of the barn with his big head, and held me there while using his horn to try to tip the bucket off my arm. All I could think to do was to lift my arm up, bucket and all, and ram it down hard on top of his head. That did the trick, but my arm was messed up. I called my husband and said, "Honey I need to go to the ER. I think Norbhu just broke my arm." Luckily it wasn't broken-just a big contusion. Sure was entertaining, though, to explain to the nurses and doctor that I had gotten pinned against the barn by my yak.
 
@Whatshisface -- there is an Orpington rooster for sale on CL here: http://battlecreek.craigslist.org/for/4794555819.html Looks like he needs a good home for the winter... it might be fate. :)

@JackieandChicks -- I click on the facebook link... but get an error. What is this Michigan list? Is it a group, or page, ... do you have to be a member? I'd like to check it out but can't find it.


edited to add a link for another buff orpington roo on CL: http://battlecreek.craigslist.org/grd/4793941308.html

Thank you Maah! I hope they still have him. I just sent an email to the person on Craigslist. The other post for the younger Roo is a little more than I wish to spend right now, although he is a beautiful bird. Regardless, I'm glad I didn't tear down my old coop yet, because I want to keep him away from my flock until I'm sure he's healthy. I'm thinking about a week should be long enough to tell.
 


I hope they still have him too & you get your rooster. Of course check him out for lice & mites & all that jazz first... But if you'd like to speed along the "integration period" to make sure the incoming fellow is healthy, you should quarantine him together with a "fodder" chicken from your own flock, for at least 2 weeks. 3 weeks would probably be better... If either of the 2 birds have problems in that time, then you will know there's a mystery disease between the 2 mixing flocks that will cause you problems & you would not want to put them back with your main flock. The problem could be coming from the new rooster, or be in your own flock but not symptomatic so you wouldn't know. If they both do fine, then add them to the rest of the flock.
 
@snowflake
They have both flavoring & crushed candy cane.
Hopefully this is readable if you "open" the pix..I'll uplo them under my profile, too.


@aart
Yep. Hand painted!

@Peep-Chicken
So sorry about your OE
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Thank you for the recipe will try it today, love your painted ones
Thank you kindly, Morgan, it is probably too far for me but I do appreciate it.

Ivermectin has lost its effectiveness against at least some internal parasites, a problem that will only get worse with time. Valbazen is a very effective dewormer, give 1/2 cc per bird, repeating after 10 days. Eggs should be discarded for 10 days after treatment, so fall, when laying naturally slows, is a good time to deworm. This also eliminates parasites before winter, a more stressful time for birds.

My birds got dose #2 last weekend, so next week the light goes on. Molting has finally finished up, so they should be ready to ramp up production (which right now is nada).
do you give orally or topical? less for small birds?

sure hate to do this, just started laying again after almost 2 months
 
Are people de-worming because there is an actual worm problem? Or do you worm just because?

I just don't seem to understand treating if there is no problem.
 

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