Congratulations!
I know how that feels. Such a good feeling knowing all your hard work is finally paying off. Have fun.

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Four days to hatching. I'm surprised that the excitement bug is biting me now. Speaking of bugs..... Both brooding hens have little, tiny black mite looking creatures crawling on them. hard to tell how many cause we don't want to put the birds off the nest. Marty, at the local feed store, says D.E. will do the trick. not to use toxins as they are apt to injure the anticipated chicks. What do you knowledgeable BYChickeners do/ and how when confronted with this dilemma? I have,as a matter of course, applied the D.E. I use in the garden to the inside of the hen house. He said use the food grade, so I will.
Also it occurs to me that the chicks will most likely want to eat after hatching, if they hatch. What do they get fed and how does one do that? I plan to keep them in the hen house 4 x 8 ft., one clutch; and brooder cage 3 x 6 ft. the other clutch. Both are in the 6 x 30 ft secure run. Should be safe to de louse/mite the cages shortly after hatching, right?
I have been reading about this stuff but do not seem to find the answers to these questions in my own mind, and I would feel better if i could.
Well, I was about to give my "SAGE" advice. HAHA, but seems that I have been beaten to it. LOL.C O N G R A T S ! ! !
Bob, DE, contrary to popular belief, will not treat an infestation of any parasite. It can be considered a preventative, but once they have mites, using it as a treatment will not work. If I were in your shoes, I would treat with Ivermectin Eprinex - why? It is applied topically and will be absorbed through the skin. The Eprinex version of Ivermectin is a specific formula (not all Ivermectins are forumulated the same). Eprinex will kill internal (worms) as well as external (mites, fleas) parasites. The problem will be that the chicks MAY get them as well. Since you have 4 days, I would get the Eprinex ASAP and treat ASAP. Mites/lice/fleas - whatever it is that they have, need to be able to bite their host to survive. They can live 2-3 days without doing so....thus, if you treat right away, those that are not on the bird will die within a few days, and the hatchlings will not be exposed to them.
The chicks will need chick starter, and it's fine for momma to eat that as well.
Okay, switching subjects back and forth from canning to chicken supplements isn't working for me.Have you tried adding crickets or meal worms ....
One of my Uggos did that last month. She laid for a month then went broody. It took about 3 weeks to "break" her. She is good now and her belly feathers are back. I think your girl will be fine by the time winter gets here.
Okay, switching subjects back and forth from canning to chicken supplements isn't working for me.![]()
I suppose since meal worms would be considered a low-acid food you would need to add lemon juice when canning them
I like 'em fresh and sauteed in olive oil.I suppose since meal worms would be considered a low-acid food you would need to add lemon juice when canning them