Micro Farm Coop Worklog [UPDATE: SHINGLES ON - PAGE 27]

[tdgill]

interesting note on using pier blocks, Ed.

also here is a link

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/8deckpierblocks

 

[DarkWolf]

You're right.. I did use far less blocks than what is recommended however any settling is not an issue. It's just a coop and doesn't need to be straight at all times..

There are 4 deck blocks and 2 cinder blocks in the center.

If all the weight were laying on the end nails, I'd be worried, but the sheeting over top spreads the weight over all the bottom framing so no issues with nail pull.

The only thing I need to worry about is the weight on those 6 piers eventually causing the building to settle, but as I said, it's just a coop. If it settles an inch here or there it's not a big deal.

Whole point of deck piers is to spread the weight evenly over the entire area to PREVENT movement. If it's not a critical issue, you can use less.. So long as the floor structure isn't stressed in the center, which is why the cinder blocks were added.

Edit: for spelling...

 

[tdgill]

Quote:
ahhhHHhhh
gotcha!

 

[Cheep a'lil Talk a'lil]

So now you've made me re-think my bracing/legs to my coop. The coop is about 5x7 and the walls are 4'. I have 3' pressure treated post in each corner and will put it on the pilar blocks with the metal brace. *makes sense?*
So my question, is four enough? Will all the weight be transfered to these corners or do I need to add two to the middle of the 7' side edges and then one to the center? *oh boy I hope that makes sense*

 

[DarkWolf]

You should be more than fine with the plan you have. If you feel you need more bracing in the center, simplify things and just track some angle cut 2x4's in such as this..

I don't think it's needed though.. Same thing I did with my fence though on the inside.. Just incase... To keep it from ever sagging.

 

[Cheep a'lil Talk a'lil]

Quote:
Good idea. I will give it a good test when I finally get it up on the piliars. But your probably right though. I will have a center wall to divide the "coop" area and "brooding" room, open access when brooding not in process. But it won't be weight bearing so I wouldn't have to worry about sagging would I?

 

[DarkWolf]

If I don't get more work done on this coop, I think I'll cry.

The rooster, now granted amnesty via being named Roody, is now crowing. Granted, it's not the best sounding crow in the world, but it's pretty decent and he's working on it. So now, there is no waiting to take them out to the coop in the morning.. He insists on it being when he wants, which is basically when the sun shines on him.

I did get a chance to do the roosts today, cutting down some 2x4's into true 3" widths and then painting them up. Then I cut the wall standoffs, which will hold it away from the wall at 16". The roosts are 12" apart. I've just got to get the final coat of paint on it and then they'll be ready to hang.

I'm going with a floating roost to make moving and cleaning under them easier. Granted I could have hinged it, but if I ever feel the need to take the roost outside and hose it down, this makes that task easier. Also because it's a floating roost hung by 4 lines, it can be adjusted at any height I feel is right for the birds. For now, that's about 16" or so off the ground.

 

[tdgill]

i should go research...

but what is a "floating roost"

edit to add:
awww a guy with a heart - who can cry

 

[DarkWolf]

LOL... Yeah...

Anyway, I'm just making a dual roost which is suspended by four lines, so I'm coining the phrase "floating roost".. It's copyrighted... You owe me twenty five cents for using it..

 

[Cheep a'lil Talk a'lil]

Quote:
Don't you just love chicken puberty?!

Okay, I am a visual person so I'm going to nee some pictures of this roost. I can't quite picture it. You say its going to be hung by 4 lines...would that be like a swing for the chickens then?