Minimum age for dewormers?

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by phoenixbantam, Sep 9, 2009.

  1. phoenixbantam

    phoenixbantam Out Of The Brooder

    May 19, 2009
    West Palm Beach, FL
    I did some searches but couldn't find the answer...

    We just bought 3 silver laced and 2 gold laced polish chicks at the pet store, and sure enough, they are shedding worms in their waste.

    I was wondering if anyone knew the minimum age for wazine and fenbenzadole? I can't find it online. I think my chicks are just a few days old.
  2. Eggs4Sale

    Eggs4Sale Chillin' With My Peeps

    Jun 29, 2009
    If you use the SEARCH that is in the BLUE BAR, NOT the one to the top right that says Google custom Search, then you'll find a TON on this.

    Hit SEARCH

    Type in WORMING for subject
    Type in THREEHORSES for Author

    But you know what, if I were you, I would just PM her directly and ask her.
    When you go to her posts, look under her avatar. Press PM.
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2009
  3. Eggs4Sale

    Eggs4Sale Chillin' With My Peeps

    Jun 29, 2009
    This is one quote from THREEHORSES:

    "OK first I determine whether or not a bird needs the wazine worming first, what I nicknamed the "wazine pre-worming". Here are the qualifications. If "yes" to any of these, I do the wazine first:

    Bird is over six months old, never wormed, and has been on dirt - not wire.
    Bird has an unknown worming history.
    Bird has shed any worms in the feces at all.
    Bird hasn't been wormed in over 9 months.

    If the bird meets those qualifications, I use Wazine 17 (or equivalent piperazine 17%) as labeled in their water for 1 day. I don't eat eggs for two weeks. I *like* to do this when the bird is molting/not laying if possible, but worm killing > egg eating.
    If you do the "wazine pre-worming", then in 2 or more weeks later (no more than 2 months) I will do the following worming which I do to all birds twice a year - fall and spring.

    I gather the birds being wormed into one area where they don't usually live. Each bird gets picked up and thoroughly examined. Skin, inside mouth, feathers, breathing, keel score, comb/wattles, vent, etc etc. I doctor anything that needs doctoring. Then I worm them (see below) and place them in the pen where they usually stay. Then i get the next bird, rinse and repeat. It helps to have a little portable folding table on which to work, a jacket or big men's shirt, and gloves. Keep a bucket near by with scissors and meds in case you have to clean and treat any little things.

    The wormers:
    Ivermectin (pour-on, injectable given orally, or paste). aka Ivomec though I recommend generic, not "ivomec" brand because it's all "ivermectin". Horse paste wormers for a 1200 lbs horse labeled as "ivermectin" will work. I don't use the other -ectins, although I know some use eprinectin (eprinex). Personally my preference is pour-on, generic. Broad spectrum, kills more than just intestinal worms, kills adults AND larvae in many species, kills external parasites that take blood, and gapeworm. High safety margin. See dosage below.

    Fenbendazole aka Safe-Guard. Panacur. Paste. Another good broad spectrum wormer with a high safety margin. Kills roundworms (adults), cecal worms, capillary worms, and gape worms. You can make a bb-sized piece of it and put into the beak. MSU says that you can use as follows:

    1 oz Safeguard or Panacur per 15-20 lb feed

    Dissolve the fenbendazole product in one cup of water. Mix this solution well into the feed and give to the birds as their only feed source for one day. When completely consumed, untreated feed can be given. Be sure that the commercial medication contains 10% fenbendazole.

    Levamisole: Kills capillary worms, cecal worms, roundworms (adults).
    Dosage at:


    , I use pour-on ivermectin for cattle. It's a blue solution. 250ml generic costs about $14 and will last you ages! It's best to have a helper, but can be done on your own with a table. You will want to fill a syringe with a needle with a little ivomec. I use a 3cc syringe and 25g needle. You will NOT inject it - I use the needle to make one drop at a time of a uniform sized drop. (I'm not able to do that with a regular dropper while holding a chicken.) I hold the syringe pointing towards its side, not down at the bird, in case she jumps so I don't poke her.

    I find a spot on the bird, about 1/2" wide, that has no feathering and no down. The best area is low on the back of the neck, or between the shoulders. Once I find that spot, I dispense 1 to 8 drops on the skin. If you get it on the down, it absorbs and you don't know whether or not the bird will get it - so make sure it's on the skin.

    The dosage is as follows:

    1 drop for a small or OEGB sized bantam.
    2 drops for a large OEGB, small but not "micro" bantam.
    3 drops for a regular bantam hen.
    4 drops for an average hen or smaller large fowl rooster.
    5 drops for the average large fowl
    6 drops for a larger large fowl
    7 drops for giant breed

    Here's a post on ivermectin that explains using injectable, etc:
  4. chickenlady

    chickenlady Chillin' With My Peeps

    Aug 28, 2007
    Stillwater, NJ
    Are you sure what you are seeing is worms? First off, I'm not sure a few day old chick could have such an infestation of worms already and if a few day old chick has bad enough worms that they are expelling them in feces, that chicks little body would have given up all ready, they are too small to handle that. Especially at only a few days old.

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