Mink Attack, Please Help!!

SunriseChickers

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Nov 12, 2018
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Yesterday sometime after lunch and before dusk a mink somehow got into the pen and killed everyone's favorite girl, a large fluffy glw with the sweetest personality named Tempest. It ripped her throat out and left feathers everywhere. We put out the live trap with canned chicken as bait overnight, but no luck. We think Tempest was ambushed, because from what we could tell she had been eating from the feeder, which is very near some long grasses. I put the feeder and waterer out in the most open spot, and this morning my dad cut the tall grasses. I don't know how it got in. The wire around the fence is the sort with square holes about 2 inches tall, so it probably squeezed through or even under. I don't remember what that type of fence is called. Anyways, I'm really scared for my other girls. How can we repel the mink? Or better yet capture it so that I can brutally murder it(don't worry, I wouldn't actually do that)? Please help!
 
I very sorry for your loss. If you want to keep the mink out, I recommend you replace the wire you have now with some hardware cloth. The holes are much too small for any predator to get through.
 
Your fencing won't keep any small weasels or rats out of your pen, and that predator will return soon! Lock everyone in a safe coop (no openings larger than 1/2" diameter, hardware cloth) while you upgrade your run. You might be able to trap this mink, but it won't be the only visitor you will have!
Some hardware cloth, and electric fencing at the base and top of the run in addition, will be good.
Mary
 
I very sorry for your loss. If you want to keep the mink out, I recommend you replace the wire you have now with some hardware cloth. The holes are much too small for any predator to get through.
Your fencing won't keep any small weasels or rats out of your pen, and that predator will return soon! Lock everyone in a safe coop (no openings larger than 1/2" diameter, hardware cloth) while you upgrade your run. You might be able to trap this mink, but it won't be the only visitor you will have!
Some hardware cloth, and electric fencing at the base and top of the run in addition, will be good.
Mary

It tried again today around 3-4 pm, but we were out and watching. It ran off into the long grass. We got out a gun and tried to flush it out, but it was already long gone. Dad mowed all the long grass around the pen and set the live trap up along its paths. Dad wants to put additional chicken wire around the pen, since hardware cloth is much too expensive, and he's talked about thinning out the slippery elm they've got in there so that they can have easy perches in case of another attack. Thanks for the fencing suggestions. Can minks climb? That's all I'm worried about when putting up more fencing. Larger animals can't easily get in due to the netting over top. I'm going to ask about putting some hardware cloth around the base, but it's a fairly sizable pen so it may cost too much.
 
To the OP, your first post didn't sound like a mink....single bird with throat ripped out.....but if you meant back of neck at base of skull, then that could be. Normally, they killl more than one.....if not all of your flock. But if you had an actual visual confirmation and are certain it is a mink, then that's what it is.

Regardless, the dead bird itself is probably the best live trap bait you can use. Probably missed that chance.

So next option, since it seems determined to return.....is to find a way to position the live trap INSIDE the run.....the entrance to the trap being through some type of hole you create in the fence yourself. Small gap along the bottom would do it. Placing the trap at the entrance to a pop door would do it.

So goal is to allow them through the fence, but once they do, the place they emerge.....and ONLY place they can emerge......is inside your live trap. That is easier with the right kind of live trap.....one with a recessed door to allow a flush mounted set. Likely as not, you don't have one of those.....you probably have a Havahart type, with door that extends beyond entrance to the trap. You can't set that flush to the wall or fence.

In that case, you can either make hole in the fence large enough for entire trap to fit....so entrance is outside the run......or else fashion/construct an extension to your trap left on the inside.

The critical step here is when the mink or any other animal emerges through the fence, the ONLY place it can get to is the inside of the trap. That way, birds can remain safely inside the run......and even act as live bait for the mink to go after. Do your part, and they will be at no risk of harm.
 
A few examples......using a Havahart......

First set of photos shows a gap used by the coons that hang around my barn at night. To make a positive set.....you block off the opening with the mouth of the trap.

live trap 4.jpg

Problem here is the door, which protrudes out from the opening of the trap (is not a flush mount door). So there is a gap available for varmint to bypass the trap. Either block it off with wire, cement blocks, etc.....in short, create a funnel or drift fence that directs them to try to enter the opening. This type of set is much more effective if you have a double door trap.....one that appears to offer a tunnel or pass through for varmint to use.

livetrap 3.jpg

Second type is to use something like the pop door on coop or run. They want in....so let them in.

live trap 1.jpg live trap 2.jpg

On the inside, trap would need to have solid support (not shaky)......something like putting those cement blocks under it. It should also be wired or fastened to the side of the coop....again so it won't budge and spook anybody by shaking when they enter....but also so a wildly thrashing varmint trapped inside won't be able to tip the trap over and escape.

I'd also cover the wire floor.....probably with a thin layer of the litter from the house.....something they won't feel with their feet. Critical with a bobcat or fox.
 
BTW, if you anticipate varmint trouble and want to be ready, when you build your coop or run, you could make the pop door a size that would mate up well with a standard sized live trap. This trap is 10" x 12". So make the pop door 10 1/2 or 11" x 12 1/2 or 13". A perfect fit.
 

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