Mixed ages... mixed feed?

[cmom]

I plan on switching to the 26% protein this Friday, I just bought pheasants yesterday and they need a higher protein then what I have been feeding my chickens. The turkeys, ducks, and guineas do too, that is why I add the supplement of Showtime Gamecocks feed. It might cost a little more but I agree I want them to be healthy and show quality, not just lay eggs. Plus I want healthy chicks being born from their eggs. When I buy any animal it is from my vet who owns the feed and grain shop in my area, she checks all of them and keeps them in quarantine for 3 to 5 days before they are sold. Too many diseases out there to buy them from just anywhere nowadays. I might do things differently than others but I do not leave feed out in my pens for the wild birds to get to either. Even though all of my pens are covered with chicken wire the wild birds will try to fit through the holes. They carry diseases I do not want my babies to catch. I feed mine 2 times a day, morning and just before they go to roost. The only food that is left all day is for my chicks but they are in a brooder that a bird cannot get into. If they try the cats will scare them off.

I fed my Pheasants Game Bird feed which is higher in protein. The Game Bird Grower is usually crumbles and the Game Bird Breeder, pellets. I do show my chickens.

 

[leighks]

If the chick starter grower is medicated is that all right to feed to mixed flock all the time. Plus fermenting it

No it’s not good to medicate them unnecessarily. Some say to not even feed the chicks medicated feed. If you do use it, it should just be for a limited time for new chicks who have little to no immunity to coccidia.

 

[GC-Raptor]

If the chick starter grower is medicated is that all right to feed to mixed flock all the time. Plus fermenting it

I have read that medicated feed with Amprolium helps to prevent Coccidiosis up to 10 weeks.
Then switch to a Non-Medicated Starter Grower 18/20% Protein.
Temporarily feeding Adults feed with Amprolium if you have Chicks will not harm them and the Eggs are safe to eat. But I would Not feed all the time.
I am currently feeding a Non-Medicated Start & Grow, with Oyster Shells on the side to my 26 month old hens. GC

 

[Crs1]

I want to buy from my local grain elevator because the prices are better
So my only other choices are A layer feed 20% protein and calcium. 10.00. 50 pounds. Which would be fed to chicks pullets and hens
Or gamebird grower finisher with 22% protein and low calcium 12.00 50 pounds. Which I would free choice egg shell
???

 

[newchickenmom33]

I had to google Coccidiosis. My chickens all seem healthy but maybe I should have them all seem by a vet just for good measure.

 

[PirateGirl]

I have heard that switching to layer feed prior to laying can potentially delay the start of laying due to the lowered protein content. Perhaps someone else can comment on that.

 

[GC-Raptor]

Which would be fed to chicks pullets and hens
Or gamebird grower finisher with 22% protein and low calcium 12.00 50 pounds. Which I would free choice egg shell
???

I would feed the game bird finisher till the chicks pullets have started to lay, then switch to the layers feed, with Oyster Shells or crushed limestone separately. GC

 

[GC-Raptor]

I had to google Coccidiosis. My chickens all seem healthy but maybe I should have them all seem by a vet just for good measure.

If they seem healthy you should be fine.
Keep their brooder clean and dry.
How old are they? Do they have access to the outside?
Some people that don't use medicated feed scoop up some sod from their untreated lawn and place in their brooder.
I use medicated feed for chicks and have never offered them sod. GC

 

[newchickenmom33]

If they seem healthy you should be fine.
Keep their brooder clean and dry.
How old are they? Do they have access to the outside?
Some people that don't use medicated feed scoop up some sod from their untreated lawn and place in their brooder.
I use medicated feed for chicks and have never offered them sod. GC

The 15 week old pullets have been outside in there coop since 6 weeks and free range for around 4-6 hours per day and then left in their run the rest of the time. There don’t interact with any other animals that i have ever seen. The babies are 3 weeks old and allowed outside at least a couple hours daily in a run. Their brooder is inside at the moment for the next few weeks with wood chips... we have zero sod around here...

 

[Lady of McCamley]

Breed is important to feeding needs.

You have commercial layers, although the Orpington, being dual purpose, will mature more slowly than the production reds (your feed store RIR) and production Barred Rocks, you still have feed store varieties which have been bred and selected for egg production.

I personally would not give any feed over 18% to at most 20% protein chick starter. 22% is for meat birds, and above that game birds or turkeys. You can harm growth by adding too much protein. The muscles can outstrip joints and bones causing malformations. 22% is meant for fast growing meat birds who need to add a lot of meat quickly. Game bird feed fed continually is not healthy for most commercial layer types, which you have. Show birds and heritage types may do better with higher protein, but I do not recommend that for commercial layer breeds.

Medicated is amprolium based which slows the uptake of vitamin B. It literally starves the coccidia protozoa by not allowing it to metabolize B. Medicated feed has its place in areas with feed store chicks who have not developed an immunity to coccidia or transplants who do not have an immunity to your coccidia strain. It is meant to be fed for about 10 weeks until the bird is mature enough for their own immune system to take over. Medicated feed merely slows the development of coccidia in the gut to allow that to happen.

Medicated feed will not hurt older hens, and you do not need to pull eggs. In time, though, steady consumption of the medicated may cause declined levels of B in your hens.

Since your older birds are commercial layers types, they will need calcium sooner as their genetics are geared for egg production sooner. You can actually delay the start of laying by having low calcium for the production breeds.

Chicks won't eat the oyster shell, so that is one method of accommodating all ages. Put out 18% chick start and leave oyster shell out for free feed. The older birds will begin to eat the oyster shell while the younger birds will not. You will know when point of lay is around the corner as the young pullets will begin to guzzle the oyster shell.

When your younger birds (shall I assume they are commercial laying types too, similar to your older birds?), become about 14 weeks of age, you can switch everyone onto a good layer. Studies have shown that the commercial laying breeds do best for production when switched at about 14 to 16 weeks of age rather than waiting for actual laying.

My experiences.
LofMc