Moving forward...

[aart]

Looks AWESOME!!

It's a huge, huge, project, no doubt you're sick of it.....and dealing with injuries just ups the frustration and pain(both literally and figuratively), I know.
Once it's done tho....man, you'll have years of 'easy' (well, easier) animal keeping. It will all be worth the time, effort, and money you're spending now.

Hang in there and thanks for the update......saw you on another thread, so came here to ask....slow and steady as she goes.

 

[CanadianBuckeye]

You've made amazing progress, you have accomplished an awful lot. It's a very ambitious project, you'll get there!

 

[bobbi-j]

WOW! Looks great!

 

[Mini Meat]

First off,
Thank you aart, canadianbuckeye, and bobbi-j for your support. It REALLY does help motivate me.

I have more to report.

I got the second half of the side wall to the layer coop installed and to my dismay... the pad is not at all level.



There is a 3' gap where this part of the wall leaves off. $%^#@@#


I am not building my dream house here, just a chicken coop and since this gap will be hidden by bedding I'm just going to shim it and call it good. The interior walls are not build to be predator proof anyway so....

I still have a 31" section to add and then that wall will be done.

I wanted to get the first part of the front (exterior) wall in before I closed that gap so I could get an accurate measurement. So I will make this 31" panel taller so it sits on the ground and is flush at the top. I could chase my own tail forever trying to make everything perfect.



A preview of what the front will look like. My neighbors dad tore down an old redwood fence and I was kindly gifted the boards. They are over a 1/2" thick and not even rotted.

I still have to cut 1' pieces to close in under the door.

The door is 1/2' x 2 1/2' pine then hardware cloth then the pine again so that the wire is sandwiched (stapled and glued) between the wood. The corners overlap opposite each other (I hope that makes sense) so it is very strong. A lot of screws were uses from both sides. The door fits very snug and I may have to sand it down once winter comes... we'll see. But I figure better tight then sloppy on the exterior.

I may take a gamble and move some of my cull juvies into this section before it is completely secure (whole front enclosed). I have a game cam on the flat and since the mountain loin moved in there have been zero sightings of any other predator. While I do not feel it will be coon proof at that point I do feel it will be loin proof. Mountain lions have a dislike of risk taking since they are such effective large game predators I don't think it would risk a confined space for such a small prize. They would only be at risk for a day or two (I hope). IDK?

Anyway that is where I am at up to today. I am seeing a light at the end of the tunnel.

Oh, wait.... the runs...

 

[aart]

Light at end of tunnel was a train,huh? Haha! BTDT. You'll be alright.

Wonders if that 'out of flat' floor is part of a water shedding plan.
Many poured floors have some slope to channel water to a drain or keep it out of the entrances...
......or slope up from an entrance, and if I'm reading the pics right that gap looks to be close to the front of building.
Floor should be 'above grade' and often needs some slope at vehicle entrances.
Of course poured concrete finishing slopes can be very well done....or not.

Glad to offer encouragement, affirmation, and feedback....just paying it forward.
Rebuilt an old lawn and garden tractor about 15 years ago,
could never have done it without the help and encouragement from a group of vintage tractor forumers.

 

[Mini Meat]

Light at end of tunnel was a train,huh? Haha! BTDT. You'll be alright.

Wonders if that 'out of flat' floor is part of a water shedding plan.
Many poured floors have some slope to channel water to a drain or keep it out of the entrances...
......or slope up from an entrance, and if I'm reading the pics right that gap looks to be close to the front of building.
Floor should be 'above grade' and often needs some slope at vehicle entrances.
Of course poured concrete finishing slopes can be very well done....or not.

Glad to offer encouragement, affirmation, and feedback....just paying it forward.
Rebuilt an old lawn and garden tractor about 15 years ago,
could never have done it without the help and encouragement from a group of vintage tractor forumers.

I believe your are right about the slope being for drainage. It does go t'word the front. It's not a dip or a wobble rather a slight but steady grade from ahead of center to the front. The slab was poured by a very good concrete contractor who specializes in putting basements under houses long after they are built. He does top notch work.

 

[Mini Meat]

"They" say a picture is worth a 1000 words. I say thank goodness for that because I am to beat for many words.



My thought on the progress will have to wait 'till tomorrow.

 

[bobbi-j]

Beautiful!

 

[aart]

"They" say a picture is worth a 1000 words. I say thank goodness for that because I am to beat for many words.



My thought on the progress will have to wait 'till tomorrow.

SaaaaWEEET!

 

[CanadianBuckeye]

Hey that's looking awesome!!!! I built a coop in an old barn with a very rough concrete floor. I'm concerned about weasels getting in, so what I did to sort of fill the gaps was screw a six inch wide strip of hardware cloth to the bottom of the door, so that it bends outward. Not perfect but better than the gap. I've seen rubber skirts put on the same way, cut in strips so that it looks sort of like a fringe.