My first coop

Hello there and welcome to BYC! :frow

Most breeds do fairly well in cold climates. I would however shy away from Silkies, they are pretty delicate.

As long as you don't close up the chickens tight in the coop, no matter how cold it gets, use good ventilation in your eaves, they should do fine.

You are in Alaska? Definitly stop by the Alaska thread to help you get started up there...
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/north-to-alaska.84141/

Good luck and stay warm up there! Merry Christmas!! :)
 
G’Day from down under Riverwood Farm :frow Welcome!

You might be interested in downloading this free e-book My First Year With Chickens and another article that might help with Pickin a Chicken.

I do hope you enjoy being a BYC member. There are lots of friendly and very helpful folks here so not only is it overflowing with useful information it is also a great place to make friends and have some fun.

If you would like to share pictures and stories of the coop build or your flock when they arrive, you have come to the right place. BYC’ers never tire of these and do not back away slowly or commence eye rolling when the photo album or home videos come out ;)
 
Welcome to BYC. General recommendation for nest boxes is 1 box per 4 birds. Larger than the 12 x 12 is preferred by the birds, IME. My girls absolutely love their large crate box. They also need plenty of head room b/c a hen stands up when she lays an egg!

For cold weather birds, I choose small combs (pea or rose comb) and non feathered feet.

FYI, there is a Rhode Island White chicken, and the Plymouth Rock comes in other colors besides the barred feather pattern, though when someone mentions Plymouth Rock, they are usually thinking about the Barred Plymouth Rock.
 
Welcome to BYC. General recommendation for nest boxes is 1 box per 4 birds. Larger than the 12 x 12 is preferred by the birds, IME. My girls absolutely love their large crate box. They also need plenty of head room b/c a hen stands up when she lays an egg!

For cold weather birds, I choose small combs (pea or rose comb) and non feathered feet.

FYI, there is a Rhode Island White chicken, and the Plymouth Rock comes in other colors besides the barred feather pattern, though when someone mentions Plymouth Rock, they are usually thinking about the Barred Plymouth Rock.
I know. I was talking about RIRs though, which come in only one variety.
Same with the BPRs.
 
No, I just own an Alaskan chainsaw mill. Guessing it was invented in Alaska, though.
So....where are you located?
Good to put your location in your profile.
How big a bar you got on that thing?
Oh, and, Welcome to BYC!

So chain saw mills are slow, huh? Was about to pull the trigger on a Logosol, but went with a band saw instead. I do enough chainsaw work; didn't want to have to spend more time doing that.
What did you get?
 
Here's some advice I can offer.

The Coop
Have at least 4 square feet of space per bird inside the coop. Use "chicken math"- you are going to want more, so maybe even multiply that number by two.
The coop must have roosts providing 10 inches of space per bird.
Nest boxes should be below the level of the roosts, 12" by 12" is standard. One nest box for 4-8 hens.
You should have adequate ventilation, and if you have cold weather I advise making some (not all) of the ventilation "sealable", by use of covers or "doors".

Breeds
You have to decide want you want. Would you like an egg layer? Dual purpose, or a meat bird? I will include good egg laying breeds and egg laying dual purpose breeds for you.
All chickens can be friendly, it is more dependent on if you handle them as chicks. Chicks handled at a young age will learn to sit on shoulders or even come when called.
If you plan to have a rooster, make sure you only have one rooster per 8-12 hens.
Find breed information on the "Reviews" page of ByC, or on this page:
http://www.sagehenfarmlodi.com/chooks/chooks.html
Orpington: This breed is easy to find and gentle. Orpingtons are 8-12 pounds, full feathered, and hardy. They lay around 180-250 eggs per year, and some will brood their own eggs if allowed to do so. They come in many colors. I believe Orps lay brown eggs.
Rhode Island Red: Rhode Island Reds (RIRs) are easy to find and get. They are 7-12 pounds and hardy birds. They lay 180-240 eggs per year and the roosters are large enough to be used for meat. Most are friendly but they only come in one color. They lay brown eggs.
Barred Plymouth Rocks: PRs are great birds, although only one color. They are very hardy and self sufficient in foraging. They lay 150-220 eggs per year but lay longer into the winter. They are somewhat friendly. Brown eggs.
Easter Eggers- EEs are 6-10 pounds, usually not meat birds. They are friendly and active, and great layers at 200-250 eggs per year. They rarely go broody but lay many colors of eggs- green, pale pink, brown, etc.
Wyandotte: Wyandottes are hardy and very beautiful. At 7-10 pounds they can be dual purpose but lay nice brown eggs at 180-250 per year. Some are good mothers if eggs are left out.
Mixed Breeds: Don't discredit mixed breeds. They can be awesome in a barnyard and extremely friendly and come in a huge variety of colors. They are easy to find and cheaper to get than purebreeds, and mine lay 200-250 eggs per year. Mine lay well but go broody if I leave eggs out, and are great mothers but friendly.
Thanks for that great info. I'm planning on making my coop 6X6 to start, and was thinking of starting with 6 birds. The coop will be expandable if needed due to increase in number down the road. From what I'm reading, most flocks grow quickly, due to some kind of "cuteness factor" I keep reading about. I plan on 2 each of three breeds to start, but I had planned on buying adult birds already laying off of CL. From what I'm reading from members here, I should be starting with chicks. Aside from the cuteness factor, which my grandkids will probably insist on, what are the advantages of chicks over hens? The farm is on 30+ acres of virgin forest on the Suwannee River. Mostly uncleared still, and full of things that would love to eat little chicks.
 
Welsummers are great free rangers if you're into that. Reasonably friendly, but probably more so if I had put some effort into it.

So chain saw mills are slow, huh? Was about to pull the trigger on a Logosol, but went with a band saw instead. I do enough chainsaw work; didn't want to have to spend more time doing that.
It's slow for me because my chainsaw is way to small to be using on my mill. Would love a bandsaw or a bigger chainsaw, but chickens first. :) Priorities, my wife says.
 
Thanks for that great info. I'm planning on making my coop 6X6 to start, and was thinking of starting with 6 birds. The coop will be expandable if needed due to increase in number down the road. From what I'm reading, most flocks grow quickly, due to some kind of "cuteness factor" I keep reading about. I plan on 2 each of three breeds to start, but I had planned on buying adult birds already laying off of CL. From what I'm reading from members here, I should be starting with chicks. Aside from the cuteness factor, which my grandkids will probably insist on, what are the advantages of chicks over hens? The farm is on 30+ acres of virgin forest on the Suwannee River. Mostly uncleared still, and full of things that would love to eat little chicks.

The big advantage that I can see with starting with chicks is: I know how my chicks have been raised. I know that they have had good nutrition. I know that they have been raised free of external parasites. I know that I have started in the first week to expose them to local pathogens, and build their gut flora with beneficial microbes and fungi.

If I buy hens from craig's list, I have no idea how they have been raised. I have to depend on the honesty of the seller regarding the age of the laying hen. If you do go this route, I suggest that you buy young pullets which are off heat, but not yet laying. It's much easier to look at a pullet who is not yet laying, and determine her approximate age. I also suggest that you buy all of your birds at the same time from the same location.

I keep a closed flock, so will NEVER allow any thing other than day old chicks or hatching eggs on my property when expanding my flock with "new blood". It's too easy to bring in disease. Some diseases are "forever" diseases, and once on your land, or in your flock are nearly impossible to eradicate.
 

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