Okay, here's an update on the hatch results.
Eight of the twelve eggs hatched perfectly and all on day 21. I opened the 4 that didn't hatch and none had any development. I'm guessing they were infertile. The 8 that hatched were all out within 18 hours of each other.
The wet-bulb thermometer worked very well. It held at 86-87 (approx. 60% humidity) degrees for the first 18 days and then I raised it to 92 degrees for the last 3. To obtain a wet-bulb of 86, it took filling two of the small dishes under the wire. To get it to 92 on the wet-bulb, I had to fill one more dish - all very easy. All the while, the little electronic hygrometers readings were all over the place. I put them in there just for comparison reasons. I'm convinced the wet-bulb thermometer is the way to go. The eggs would pip a small crack and then sit for a few hours without any further cracking. Then all of a sudden the chick would zip open the top and be out within about 15-30 minutes. I'm convinced the membranes were of the right moisture content to easily open.
The egg turning stand worked great. It took only a couple seconds to complete a turn, so the incubator lost very little humidity or heat when I did it.
Now for the negative. The dimmer switch wasn't as carefree as I had hoped. The first 16 days, it only took very minor adjustments to keep the water wiggle at the correct internal temp. However, for some reason the last 4-5 days, it started increasing temps at night much more than I'd like. I think it probably had to do with increased voltage during times of low electric consumption. I compensated by simply lowering the dimmer switch more than I thought I'd have to, before going to bed. Next time, I'll try rigging up a thermostat that can be set with a narrow range for switching on/off.
Overall, I think getting a 100% hatch on the only eggs that looked fertile means this incubator will be a keeper for me.
End result:
