My new 10x12 coop build unveiled!!

Forgot to add it will all be surrounded by 100' of electric netting

I am very happy with my electric netting from Premier 1. I got the 48" and so far any escapes over the top have been accidental cases of catching unexpected air.

I did have to put some 18" plastic garden netting inside it to make it chick-tight. Up until 6-8 weeks they could scoot right through (or, in the case of a determined Wyandotte, dig under).
 
I am very happy with my electric netting from Premier 1. I got the 48" and so far any escapes over the top have been accidental cases of catching unexpected air.

I did have to put some 18" plastic garden netting inside it to make it chick-tight. Up until 6-8 weeks they could scoot right through (or, in the case of a determined Wyandotte, dig under).
I love my Premeir fencing. I got the 48" Permanet.
 
Thank you very much for your suggestions!

The vent area is covered with 1/2in HWC. Reinforced with 2x4s. Hard to see in the pic I guess.

I have seen suggestions ranging from a nesting box for every 3-6 birds, but every one! Nope, sorry. This box I got is rated for 20 birds. So I cut that that number in half and have 9 layers I hope to use it. I cant imagine having 27, 1'x1' nesting boxes in there when all my girls start laying. They will need to share. If my girls like this one, I will add another for the youngins. I like the galvanized, rollout design. Money well spent since I will be selling lots of these eggs and do not want to waste time washing the box or the eggs.

The roosts I have are almost as thick as the 2x4's, and quite sturdy. The 2x4 is intended as a step mostly up to the logs, but also a place for lower ranking birds to sleep off the ground without getting pestered or pooped on.

Also I plan to get a heated water base in the next month or two, plugged into a thermocube on an extension cord. That should keep the water thawed but just in case I made a couple of the waterers so I can rotate out as needed.

I truly appreciate your input. I will be monitoring closely for the things you said will be an issue and adjust accordingly if need be.
Good job. All bases are cover!
I couldn't see your fancy nesting box, good for you. I'll have to check that out. Where did you find it?
 
Nice coop!
Separate the feeders rather than having them next to each other. Adding that many birds next spring will max out your space, consider half that many instead. Having a few chicks added each year will even out egg production, unless you are going to eliminate many older birds each year also.
I too use tree branches or saplings as roosts, and some of our birds roost on the rafters, which are 4" fence posts in the old section, and 2"x 8" boards in the newer section. It's all fine. I don't get the oft repeated story about the chickens needing flat boards to roost on, they were tree dwellers and do fine on branches!
Many things work as nest boxes, and don't cost $$$. We have a shelf with plastic milk crates lined up on it, and a slanted roof above, that works fine. there's a board across the front to keep bedding inside. Each crate has a feed bag on the bottom, covered with bedding. Al about 24" above the floor, so still floor space, and six boxes fit across the back of that coop section. I like that there's good air flow through them in summer too.
Mary
 
Good job. All bases are cover!
I couldn't see your fancy nesting box, good for you. I'll have to check that out. Where did you find it?
Thank you! The brand is Hengear. They have a website where they sell it but it is backordered. I got this one from premier1supplies.com . I even emailed hengear customer service a link to it to make sure that the premeir one was not a knockoff and they confirmed it was legitimate.
 
Nice coop!
Separate the feeders rather than having them next to each other. Adding that many birds next spring will max out your space, consider half that many instead. Having a few chicks added each year will even out egg production, unless you are going to eliminate many older birds each year also.
I too use tree branches or saplings as roosts, and some of our birds roost on the rafters, which are 4" fence posts in the old section, and 2"x 8" boards in the newer section. It's all fine. I don't get the oft repeated story about the chickens needing flat boards to roost on, they were tree dwellers and do fine on branches!
Many things work as nest boxes, and don't cost $$$. We have a shelf with plastic milk crates lined up on it, and a slanted roof above, that works fine. there's a board across the front to keep bedding inside. Each crate has a feed bag on the bottom, covered with bedding. Al about 24" above the floor, so still floor space, and six boxes fit across the back of that coop section. I like that there's good air flow through them in summer too.
Mary
Thanks for the input! I actually already have all the birds, and have been integrating them this week. I have the small ones in there now in a penned off section. Plan on moving the big ones in to their section after dark. I have a very high egg demand for next spring which is why I decided to get them all at once this year and built this coop. Chicken math has already struck me lol I don't plan on expanding much anytime soon. Thanks again for your suggestions, I actually ran the divider between the feeders so all the birds can eat near each other without contact. I'm hoping a week or two of this set-up will integrate them. My 14 youngins are a bit over 7 weeks old. The other 17 are mixed ages oldest around 1.
 
Got some pics of the birds enjoying the coop.
Look but don't touch!!
20200923_160916.jpg

20200923_160808.jpg
 
All of todays eggs were in the box. In a few days I will remove the litter, but leave the fake egg. I can't beleive they caught on so quick!! Both the nipple waterers and the egg box took less than three days. With the waterers I just went out a couple times the first couple days and put corn kernels on the nipple. A fake egg and a real egg with some litter in the box did the trick there. So far the move has been super smooth. In another week or two i'll take down the divider and move/integration will be complete.
 

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