My New Coop...step by step

[PhatChicks]

What's the purpose of the 'poop bar'? Is it for doing it or catching it?

I only have 7 chicks so it's fairly easy to clean the coop but if you have more, I would suggest adding a poop bar under the roost. It would make cleaning so much easier. In my next coop, I'm definitely adding one.

 

[aart]

Nice work tracecom!!

You might want to put some kind of a double action latch on the coop door...I like something with a loop that I can put a caribineer or snap clip thru.

 

[So Cal Chic]

Here are the pictures with the wire in place. I still have lots to do, but it is functional now. I plan to attach light weight wire to the top of the run.





Notice that in the photo below, I have not yet attached the wire to the coop. As of now, it's simply a tight fit...good enough to keep the chicks in, but not secure against predators. With the pop door closed, the chicks are safe in the coop.



In this photo, you can see the wire on the bridge is connected to the hole in the run wire with zip ties.

I'm curious--I have a similar situation where I need to transition from the coop pop door to the run, although I don't have the elevation change you do. Are you going to secure the wire connection to the run with something more than zip ties? Not a criticism--just thinking about the next step in my coop/run build. I have the Adore1 door so mine will be safe inside the coop at night, too.
And how are you getting that hardware cloth to stay so nice and square? A separate piece on the top?

 

[aart]

Quote: I'm betting he used the bottom board as a straight edge and bent the HC down over it, tapping it down to sharpen the corner with something...hammer, piece of wood....I used a flat pry bar on mine.

 

[tracecom]

I'm curious--I have a similar situation where I need to transition from the coop pop door to the run, although I don't have the elevation change you do. Are you going to secure the wire connection to the run with something more than zip ties? Not a criticism--just thinking about the next step in my coop/run build. I have the Adore1 door so mine will be safe inside the coop at night, too.
And how are you getting that hardware cloth to stay so nice and square? A separate piece on the top?

My original plan was that the coop would be secure against all reasonable predators, and the run would be less secure, mainly keep the chickens in, and the dogs out. From that objective, the small zip ties would have been good enough. However, as construction has progressed, I have found myself making the run more and more secure, so I might add some larger zip ties; at this point, I don't plan on using more than that. There are wire clips made specifically for the purpose, if needed.

At the coop end of the tunnel, I plan to add some small wooden trim boards that connect the wire to the coop. That will also square up that end of the wire.

I kept the hardware cloth bends square by securing the wire to a 2 x 4, and bending the wire over the edge of the board. First, I bent it by hand, and then gently tapped it with a hammer on the bend. Even so, the cage didn't turn out perfectly square, but it's good enough. Mine is all one piece, but it could have been made in three pieces and connected with more wire ties. That would have made it easier to install, but would have meant more wire cutting.

 

[tracecom]

I'm betting he used the bottom board as a straight edge and bent the HC down over it, tapping it down to sharpen the corner with something...hammer, piece of wood....I used a flat pry bar on mine.

All correct, except I didn't use the bottom board...didn't want to mar it.

 

[So Cal Chic]

At the coop end of the tunnel, I plan to add some small wooden trim boards that connect the wire to the coop. That will also square up that end of the wire.

I kept the hardware cloth bends square by securing the wire to a 2 x 4, and bending the wire over the edge of the board. First, I bent it by hand, and then gently tapped it with a hammer on the bend. Even so, the cage didn't turn out perfectly square, but it's good enough. Mine is all one piece, but it could have been made in three pieces and connected with more wire ties. That would have made it easier to install, but would have meant more wire cutting.

Yes, as time goes on, you think more about predators. Makes sense to add those trim boards at the coop end for strength and durability. I don't want to want to cut all that hardware cloth either and that bending technique gave me an idea. My transition will be sitting on the ground, so I won't have a bridge as a floor, but it will be three-sided. Building on your idea and technique, I'm thinking I could build a box frame with 2x2s, then, using your technique, bend the cloth to conform to the frame on the top and sides and screw the cloth to the frame. Then screw the framed openings on each end to the coop and run. Like yours, my tunnel will be the same height and width as the pop door, and about 5' 6" long. But I wonder, how am I going to clean that thing out?

 

[tracecom]

But I wonder, how am I going to clean that thing out?

I plan to hose it down, and reach in from the run with something like a hoe, and pull the debris into the run, where it will decompose with the mulch into compost, which I will periodically move to the garden and replace with fresh mulch. At least, that's my hope.

 

[JanetS]

Love this!

You might want to think about putting a tarp or something on the roof of the run so your chickens have a little shade.
One thing we have learned since getting chickens is that protecting them from predators can be a full time job.

 

[tracecom]

Here are three pix that I took today of the coop and run. As you can see, I have put the first coat of paint on it; the color is "Spinach Salad." The trim is primed white, but the final color for that will be a reddish brown. My wife decided it needed a Christmas wreath.