- Thread starter
- #31
flappychicken
Songster
wow thank yo so much I have to go do math so bye BUT THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU I am sorry to hear about you 2 roo's and hens. I WILL TRAIN HIM (thank you again)
my rooster does not recognize me!!!
- Thread starter flappychicken
- Start date
Not only are you getting good advice and education on rooster behavior, you have built a very interesting thread that will not only benefit you but many others as well. I don't know if you can edit thread titles on this site but if you could title it with more specifics...maybe something like 'My sweet rooster turned mean and aggresive'.....people that have the same problem as you are having with your rooster might be drawn in for advice to get help with the same problem.
Good luck with Sully the Rooster.
Good luck with Sully the Rooster.
Last edited:
Ursuline Chick
Rest in Peace 1957-2024
Yes, I will tell you like I do myown high school DD, get that math done, it's really important.
Just don't give me the hand emojie!! 
Its male hormones...he remembers you. I have been through this with my handsome man. Just need to not be afraid. Dont turn your back on him and dont act to quickly around him. His first goal is protecting his ladies!!! Best of luck.
- Thread starter
- #35
flappychicken
Songster
AW thank you all so much I will begin my research/training tomorrow. I think I am going to do a day by day update thing (if I can manage) and yeah cool. I will not give you 
any of these Emojis
any of these Emojis
Ursuline Chick
Rest in Peace 1957-2024
Thank You! LOLAW thank you all so much I will begin my research/training tomorrow. I think I am going to do a day by day update thing (if I can manage) and yeah cool. I will not give you
- Thread starter
- #37
flappychicken
Songster
um... I am not sure...
I am posting a method that I read on here, by Beekissed. I have used it for years, and it works.
I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.
Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.
If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.
Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.
When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.
Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.
When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.
Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.
THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.
If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.
It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.
I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.
Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.
If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.
Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.
When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.
Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.
When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.
Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.
THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.
If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.
It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.
Sunshine Flock
Crowing
Okay, so right this very second I'm sitting on an LL Bean bear fur blanket in a toasty warm bedroom, and on the blanket next to me is my Queensland Heeler, chocolate lab mix dog Meesha, a chihuahua type thing named Linus, and a rooster named Henry.
I've got a long and active discussion in the emergencies forum on Henry's recovery.
This boy is about eight months old. When he started sexually maturing I was suddenly enemy number one every time I stepped inside his house. He would lunge for my ankles and bite, and man was that painful. I quickly studied up on rooster behavior and learned to stand my ground, which resulted in fewer attacks — and gradually I learned how to anticipate his triggers and what to do to avoid them.
Henry doesn't like two of my dogs; Linus is one of them. He would hunt them down and try to attack. It was actually quite stressful at times, but gradually I managed to learn how to work with that, too. I never gave up on Henry and never for one second considered culling or rehoming him. He was the answer to a prayer I've always had: raise my own flock headed up by a rooster.
He's challenging simply because he's designed to protect his hens, his home and his food. He's wired this way for a reason, and it has to do with efficiency and survival. There are no wasted moments in a rooster's life — and nothing is random. Every last little bit of rooster behavior serves a purpose.
As my husband and I learned Henry and how to work with him, we fell more and more in love with him. He's exactly the kind of rooster others wouldn't hesitate to euthanize. I don't dispute that choice as long as the rooster's life isn't wasted. Plenty of freezers are full of them; I'm glad to know they feed families.
But our boy won't ever meet an untimely end at our hands. He did, however, almost lose his life when he sacrificed himself on behalf of his hens and was grabbed by a coyote and dragged an eighth of a mile into the woods. That was six weeks ago, and here I sit with a recovering rooster at my side.
By the way, Meesha spends nearly all day with Henry. She cries when she's away from him and puts the brakes on and has to be pushed out of his room at night. She nursed two kittens for several months, and she would nurse Henry if she could.
I remember when a dark shadow of a feather first appeared on Henry's chest, while the other chicks were growing in amber colored feathers. And the comb was coming in much faster than anyone else's — and then one day he crowed at barely two months old, and I was so excited to finally have a rooster.
Henry Houdini the Wonder Rooster, I sure do love you, my sweet ornery boy, even when you bite my ankles like you did earlier today. I know exactly what I did to trigger this reaction and should have known better.
Just something to consider when contemplating life with a rooster, folks.
I've got a long and active discussion in the emergencies forum on Henry's recovery.
This boy is about eight months old. When he started sexually maturing I was suddenly enemy number one every time I stepped inside his house. He would lunge for my ankles and bite, and man was that painful. I quickly studied up on rooster behavior and learned to stand my ground, which resulted in fewer attacks — and gradually I learned how to anticipate his triggers and what to do to avoid them.
Henry doesn't like two of my dogs; Linus is one of them. He would hunt them down and try to attack. It was actually quite stressful at times, but gradually I managed to learn how to work with that, too. I never gave up on Henry and never for one second considered culling or rehoming him. He was the answer to a prayer I've always had: raise my own flock headed up by a rooster.
He's challenging simply because he's designed to protect his hens, his home and his food. He's wired this way for a reason, and it has to do with efficiency and survival. There are no wasted moments in a rooster's life — and nothing is random. Every last little bit of rooster behavior serves a purpose.
As my husband and I learned Henry and how to work with him, we fell more and more in love with him. He's exactly the kind of rooster others wouldn't hesitate to euthanize. I don't dispute that choice as long as the rooster's life isn't wasted. Plenty of freezers are full of them; I'm glad to know they feed families.
But our boy won't ever meet an untimely end at our hands. He did, however, almost lose his life when he sacrificed himself on behalf of his hens and was grabbed by a coyote and dragged an eighth of a mile into the woods. That was six weeks ago, and here I sit with a recovering rooster at my side.
By the way, Meesha spends nearly all day with Henry. She cries when she's away from him and puts the brakes on and has to be pushed out of his room at night. She nursed two kittens for several months, and she would nurse Henry if she could.
I remember when a dark shadow of a feather first appeared on Henry's chest, while the other chicks were growing in amber colored feathers. And the comb was coming in much faster than anyone else's — and then one day he crowed at barely two months old, and I was so excited to finally have a rooster.
Henry Houdini the Wonder Rooster, I sure do love you, my sweet ornery boy, even when you bite my ankles like you did earlier today. I know exactly what I did to trigger this reaction and should have known better.
Just something to consider when contemplating life with a rooster, folks.
The reason is because he is likely blind or at least seeing impaired. Blind roosters often lash out at anyone and everything including walking into things..
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