Need help with coop floor

[SomeChickinTN]

I'm trying to finish building my coop, and would like input on the floor....
Currently, the coop is on legs to make it level. If I had realized it doesn't matter if the coop is not level I would have left it on the ground and did a dirt floor for deep litter. The floor is made of pallets, and I need to cover the pallet holes...

Can I cover the pallet holes with plywood and still do deep litter?
Should I cover the holes with boards?
Or could I take the legs off and set it on the ground and not worry about the holes in the floor, and just bring the base litter above the level of the floor?

 

[DobieLover]

I'm trying to finish building my coop, and would like input on the floor....
Currently, the coop is on legs to make it level. If I had realized it doesn't matter if the coop is not level I would have left it on the ground and did a dirt floor for deep litter. The floor is made of pallets, and I need to cover the pallet holes...

Can I cover the pallet holes with plywood and still do deep litter?
Should I cover the holes with boards?
Or could I take the legs off and set it on the ground and not worry about the holes in the floor, and just bring the base litter above the level of the floor?

Can you post some pictures?
If I was starting over from scratch, I'd make sure the entire site for the coop and run were on high ground so everything stayed dry and drained away from the structures, dig a trench about 8" wide and deep and fill it with compacting gravel base making sure everything was level then build on that.
Once done, a 2' predator apron would be secured around the entire perimeter. This way I would not have my coop sitting on damp ground but would still have a dirt floor for DLM.
Is this possible for you at this point in your build?

 

[SomeChickinTN]

Can you post some pictures?
If I was starting over from scratch, I'd make sure the entire site for the coop and run were on high ground so everything stayed dry and drained away from the structures, dig a trench about 8" wide and deep and fill it with compacting gravel base making sure everything was level then build on that.
Once done, a 2' predator apron would be secured around the entire perimeter. This way I would not have my coop sitting on damp ground but would still have a dirt floor for DLM.
Is this possible for you at this point in your build?

No, I'd have to tear it down and start over. I'm ok with doing that in a few years, but right now I just want to get the coop up. I think I'll leave it on the legs and do a plywood floor for now. That would allow the rain to go under it and down the hill.

 

[Percheron chick]

Put the plywood down then cover it with vinyl. Run it up the sides and go ahead with the DL. You can also paint the floor and lower walls with Black Jack. They will both prevent the floor from rotting and make clean up easier

 

[Folly's place]

Depending on how high off the ground it is, skirt around it with hardware cloth, and make an apron or something to prevent predators and chickens from going under the coop. It's a great place for all sorts of critters to live, and not easily accessible for you.
Pictures!
Mary

 

[SomeChickinTN]

How much of the walls can be open? They are made from pallets too. Can I leave the holes open, or do I need to cover them? I was thinking about covering the west wall, but from what I have been reading here in terms of open air coops, the north side should have a wall? Right now, my run door is on the north side. I will post pics, though I have one in an older thread somewhere...It just seems like I'm still making it harder than it has to be.

 

[SomeChickinTN]

I'm probably going to have to start over in a couple years, but I've been trying to get this up since November, because I bought the chicks first, lol. I know the legs need to be braced better, but we are getting the concrete things for that. Do I need to cover the holes in all the walls, or can I just run wire around the way it is? Where the H is, is where the run door is...

 

[Folly's place]

I'd do solid walls on two sides, and leave the south and east sides covered in hardware cloth. In winter, plastic over the east wall too, at least the lower 80% of the east wall.
Think about those predators! I build for anything from rats and weasels, up to those two hundred pound dogs who might show up. Only electric fencing keeps bears out, so if that's a possibility, add that too.
Ventilation is really important, and a double layer of sheet vinyl will be fine in winter to block the wind.
Do you have snow? Is it built with snow load in mind? Without a sloped roof, that's more of an issue too.
Mary

 

[SomeChickinTN]

I'd do solid walls on two sides, and leave the south and east sides covered in hardware cloth. In winter, plastic over the east wall too, at least the lower 80% of the east wall.
Think about those predators! I build for anything from rats and weasels, up to those two hundred pound dogs who might show up. Only electric fencing keeps bears out, so if that's a possibility, add that too.
Ventilation is really important, and a double layer of sheet vinyl will be fine in winter to block the wind.
Do you have snow? Is it built with snow load in mind? Without a sloped roof, that's more of an issue too.
Mary

Thank you we are leaving about a 6 inch ventilation gap under the wide roof board all the way around. So it's essentially a raised roof. It does get cold here, but most winter's we barely see 2 inches of snow, so I don't think it should be a problem there.

 

[rosemarythyme]

How much of the walls can be open? They are made from pallets too. Can I leave the holes open, or do I need to cover them? I was thinking about covering the west wall, but from what I have been reading here in terms of open air coops, the north side should have a wall?

If the walls have gaps that are any larger than 1/2", I would cover them with wire mesh no larger than 1/2" opening.

For security purposes and weather purposes, I would board up the bottom few feet of the coop with plywood at least. Your climate doesn't sound terrible to deal with so you could leave quite a bit open towards the top for ventilation.

If you need a solid wall or two, don't just put it north facing. Consider the direction of winds on your property and put the solid wall(s) facing those. In my case, my solid wall is south, which is contrary to all advice here, but that's where my winds primarily come from.