Need Help With Window Issue

Birds need dry, draft free places to roost, whether during deep winter, or the heart of spring rains. Closing those windows, absent sources of ventilation I'm not seeing (under eave venting, the window in the other room, etc) means you won't have adequate ventilation for more than a tiny flock, literally a couple of birds, dependent on air leakage thru the building envelope. Sure, they will be warm (though they are far more cold-tolerant than we) and draft free with windows closed, but the build up of ammonia will be bad for their respiratory system (and yours when you enter), while trapped moisture begins to create frostbite hazards.

Unsure of your source, but concerned about the information they have provided.
I do have ventilation built into the roof- I don’t have pictures of it though.
 
Easy, Inside the coop, build a frame around the window covered in HC and hinged. During the warmer months swing out the HC window to access the lock and crank on the windows, than close the HC window and secure.
This was the solution I was going to suggest, too. I think your chickens would like a breezy window roost like that during a hot summer. I also agree with other posters, that you'd have to have other ventilation up high for in the winter, when the windows would be closed.
 
I do have ventilation built into the roof- I don’t have pictures of it though.

That's helpful, and why I hedged with "I'm not seeing..." The rule of thumb is 1 sq ft of free venting per bird. With the windows closed, how much do you have?

Most ridge vent manufacturers quote between 12.5 and 18 sq inches per linear foot, so basically you gain 1 sq ft of ventilation for every 8-12' of ridge venting dependent upon product selected. That is often enough for a house, where code typically requires 1' per 150' of attic space, but its not nearly enough for chickens, whose ventilation needs more closely resemble a kitchen or bathroom. If your walls are open at the soffit with a 3.5" gap (long side of a 2x4, and about the thinnest you can safely bird beak a 2x6 rafter) you gain another square foot of ventilation for every 3.5 linear feet of opening. Technically, you should subtract out the volume of the rafters themselves (and thus, use per 4' as a better estimate), but this is just a rule of thumb, not an exact science.

I'm having trouble loading all your photos (using a cell phone for internet), but I thought I saw pre-engineered trusses, not rafters, was unsure of how much clearance you might have at the tops of your walls.
 

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