Need Ideas for a dog - specfic concerns

For a good livestock guardian, smart, with short fur that can tolerate desert heat, what about an Anatolian? They were bred to guard flocks from jackals and cheetahs and such. They are big and tough, very protective. They live a good long while, so once you've got one trained, you won't have to train another one for many years.

I hate to break it to you, but a Newf and a desert don't go well together. They are great dogs, I have one, she is the smartest and sweetest dog ever, but they have a LOT of fur and mine is suffering the heat in a mere 80 degree Massachusetts summer. Clipping a Newf won't even help, they are so heavy-set that they cannot cool easily without a swimming pool.

I was thinking about getting an Anatolian for my second dog. Only reason I didn't was because the breeders in New England didn't have any litters planned for a couple of years. But they have the temperament you seem to be looking for, they can tolerate heat, and they will definitely guard you quite well.
 
I'll second the anatolian. I didn't think about them until Rosalind mentioned them. A real good choice.
 
Rescues do know background history on some of the dogs. Not all are strays.

example:
A local shelter had two gold ret. that belonged to an older gentleman who no longer could live alone and he entered a retirement home. His dogs had been around kids and grandkids, just no one in the family could take them in.

My MIL's golden ret learned early one that my guineas and chickens were off limits. His ears perk up at the sound of a pheasant but he will not bother my birds. Goldens also have soft mouths, which was nice when he did catch a guinea that spooked him one evening. (this started his training). Goldens are not overly hyper, are great with kids, easy to train, bark at intruders, and keep the yard free off "critters" like muskrats
 
The problem with labs and goldens is the potential for field dog instincts - yes they've nearly been bred out of the breed but when it shows up it can be heck to deal with if you have birds.

While not all heelers are good with feather stock, many are, as are kelpies. Some German Shepherds are good with stock, some awful... I have some of both.

Standard poodles are GREAT watch dogs and generally good with stock, clip em short and they're not much fuss really, they're terrific with kids and careful in the home.

Dobermans can go either way - Ione (amazondoc) is a Dobie rescue person if you're interested that way ask her about them. I have a friend whose two dobes are great with her chickens.

Mastiffs and great danes are short coated and can be a good choice if well bred. And once over the clutz stage really pretty easy to live with.

Mastiffs make good territory guards, it's what they were bred for.

Most bull breeds can make for unexpected and unhappy surprises, some are awesome but the chance of predatory drive in the genes is quite high. The ambull I have here - has prey drive. Most of the ones I've rescued had significant prey drive.

All terriers are suspect... even my stupid chihuahua/frenchbulldog (Bullchit) Huey is sufficiently terrier/bull to be unsafe with them.

Hounds and most field breeds can go either way leaning toward what they were bred for - to chase and hunt and catch, or mouth and retrieve (not good for birds even when well intentioned).

All the training in the world won't help you if the dog has the wrong gene setup. Having a good breeder helping you decide, finding breeders whose parent dogs already DO what you need.

If all they ask is boy or girl and what color do ya want - run...

If you want a house dog as well, find someone raising the litter IN THEIR HOME. If you have children - then preferably one with children. If around chickens then someone with chickens in the yard.

If you want a dog with a softer mouth, don't get it til it's 8 or 12 weeks, by then momma and siblings have taught the dog a softer mouth. Dogs bought between 4 and 7 weeks have a hard ......ed bite and it takes a LOT of work to teach a soft mouth.

Yes, it takes more work to find good breeders, especially ones that meet your needs, but it's worth the work.

I've worked shelters, we have neither the time nor the opportunity and most kennel staff frankly DON'T have the behavioral background to thoroughly evaluate a dog.

Shelter staff know these things:

Does it try to eat it's kennel mates and the dogs in adjoining cages.

Does it try to eat the staff.

Does it flip and lunge and freak on leash - in a shelter most dogs do...

Some shelters may have free roaming cats - in which case they know if it tries to eat the cat.

Few shelters right now can afford the behavioral staff to evaluate dogs. Some of what they will tell you if you ask is the TOTAL FICTION the previous owner gave for the dog.

Most owners lie about everything. Usually it's not housebroken, is destructive from lack of training and exercise and hasn't ever been on leash.

There are good dogs in the shelters - take a trainer with you or find a local behaviorist if you want to sort through what's there safely, or contact and work with rescues.

Rescues DO evaluate dogs, usually in HOME settings, usually while they VET and house train and leash train the dogs. It's a good set up when it works. There are bad rescues and weird rescues. There are bad and weird people in every facet of life.

So I gave you a huge long answer, mostly do your homework, pay attention to what it was bred for, plan on training and all time spent finding a good rescue or a good breeder is well spent.
 

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