Need opinions on incubating shipped eggs!

[Kb0507]

Hi everyone!
I don't post often, so a little backround. My family has had chickens for 2-3 yrs now. We've enjoyed every minute and so many different aspects of raising chickens. We have raised peeps ranging from a few days old (shipped to us), feed store babies (a week) , and some given to us(a few months old). So far, we have had good luck. Never lost a chick and all of our chickens have been happy and healthy. Our only problem stemmed from some poisonous mushrooms, that took 3 of our hens before we realized the issue.
Anyway, my daughters have always wanted to hatch peeps. 2 of our australorps have gone very broody, so we decided to go ahead and order some fertilized eggs (we have LF hens and a Bantam roo, which hasn't seemed to be having much luck in the fertilization department, lol). My original plan was to just pop the eggs under one of our broodies and let her hatch them. I felt comfortable with this decision (I mean, nature has been successful thus far, right? Lol) but I started researching to make sure I did it properly and now I feel confused and unsure. There's such differing, strong opinions on the whole process. I want to give these little guys the best chance I can. Yes, I know it's a gamble getting shipped eggs and if needed we have access to an incubator. If anyone can shed some light and/or give me your opinion/experiences on the matter, it would be greatly appreciated.
So, my questions are:
-What are your preferences when incubating shipped eggs?
-Which do you think would have a better hatch rate?
-Should I separate momma if she sits on them?
-If so, when should I reintroduce her and the babies back to the flock?
-If we incubate and then sneak them under her after hatch, do I separate all of them from our flock?
-When we get the eggs, before incubation either way, what are the best steps to take to give them the best chance at survival? Candle? Sit for 24 hrs?
-Should I candle to check progress?
-Also, I have 2 broody hens who refuse to sit on separate nests. If I leave everything as is, does it hurt to have them both share the nest and eggs?

Thank you again for any help!

 

[Kiki]

I'll answer some for you:
-Should I separate momma if she sits on them? Yes.
-If so, when should I reintroduce her and the babies back to the flock? The you have time to sit and watch to make sure the others don't attack the babies. No set time. This is only something you have to physically do to se if it is going to work or not.

-If we incubate and then sneak them under her after hatch, do I separate all of them from our flock? Probably a good idea, again you won't know until you try it.

-When we get the eggs, before incubation either way, what are the best steps to take to give them the best chance at survival? Candle? Sit for 24 hrs?
Yes...to both.

-Should I candle to check progress? Personal preference...up to you.

-Also, I have 2 broody hens who refuse to sit on separate nests. If I leave everything as is, does it hurt to have them both share the nest and eggs? Yes...I think it would be best to separate them now before you even get eggs to see if they will even continue to stay broody.

Do you have an incubator just incase you do order eggs and both hens refuse them?

Order eggs from a known source.
Make sure you research the egg seller.
The last thing you want is unhealthy eggs that don't stand a good chance.

 

[Kb0507]

I'll answer some for you:
-Should I separate momma if she sits on them? Yes.
-If so, when should I reintroduce her and the babies back to the flock? The you have time to sit and watch to make sure the others don't attack the babies. No set time. This is only something you have to physically do to se if it is going to work or not.

-If we incubate and then sneak them under her after hatch, do I separate all of them from our flock? Probably a good idea, again you won't know until you try it.

-When we get the eggs, before incubation either way, what are the best steps to take to give them the best chance at survival? Candle? Sit for 24 hrs?
Yes...to both.

-Should I candle to check progress? Personal preference...up to you.

-Also, I have 2 broody hens who refuse to sit on separate nests. If I leave everything as is, does it hurt to have them both share the nest and eggs? Yes...I think it would be best to separate them now before you even get eggs to see if they will even continue to stay broody.

Do you have an incubator just incase you do order eggs and both hens refuse them?

Order eggs from a known source.
Make sure you research the egg seller.
The last thing you want is unhealthy eggs that don't stand a good chance.

Thank you so much for the advice. It's definitely helpful....

 

[mdees88]

I guess a big question is how familiar are you with the borrowed incubator if the broody hens don't pan out?

I think the majority of "bad hatch rates" associated with shipped eggs come from faulty temp/humidity readings and poor incubator practices....

 

[Kb0507]

I guess a big question is how familiar are you with the borrowed incubator if the broody hens don't pan out?

I think the majority of "bad hatch rates" associated with shipped eggs come from faulty temp/humidity readings and poor incubator practices....

Thanks for the response. Well, not at all. Our 4h leader offered to let us use the one she has. She has had good success with hers, but I've never actually used an incubator before.

 

[Zinjifrah]

Incubated eggs, in my own experience, can be touchy. For the most part, I expect people who are getting them take the time to do research and know how to monitor their temperature and humidity. However, in shipping, particularly if you're in a remote area, they're likely to be subject to some very rough handling. You have no way to know how old the eggs actually are, other than how much you trust the seller, or how healthy the birds they come from are.

Of the eggs I have put in to incubate on the 1st, I've found indications that at least one hen they were from was not healthy. Three eggs had signs of bacteria in them - one went very bad early on, just by odor, and the other two have been culled since then. One of those three showed early signs of development, then failed.

Do set the eggs broad-end up to rest, aka adjust to your local temperature, for twelve to twenty four hours before putting them in the incubator or under a hen. I also recommend examining each egg, and candling them at that time, to see if the air pockets are intact, saddled, or completely broken loose, and mark the eggs accordingly. If you use an incubator, personally, I would say put them in broad-end up and don't turn them for the first three days. Then turn them normally, but keep the broad end up and just tip them back and forth for any with the air cell completely broken loose.

I like to candle, to make sure everything's developing. That way, if it's not, I can take it out. I just pulled 8 eggs out of my incubator because they were showing no signs of any development, and that was confirmed afterwards. The remaining eggs all have good veins and development.

If you think you might need the incubator, set it up and run it for a week or so beforehand, so you know its quirks. Do make sure you have at least two good thermo-hygrometers in there, that have been tested and calibrated, so that you're sure you know what the temperature and humidity are.

There has been research that suggests spraying eggs with a 3%-5% hydrogen peroxide prior to or during incubation improves hatch rates.

I'm not an expert. Full disclaimer on that. Just research, common sense, and my own, albeit brief, experience.

 

[lazy gardener]

-Should I separate momma if she sits on them?
Yes, I would separate her to keep the rest of the birds from laying in her nest, and to ensure that she returns to the right nest.

-If so, when should I reintroduce her and the babies back to the flock?
Within the first 2 weeks, while her broody hormones are at their highest.

-If we incubate and then sneak them under her after hatch, do I separate all of them from our flock?
I would not go this route. If you incubate them, the broody may break, or she simply may reject the chicks. Your chances of her being a successful Mama are greatest if she sets and hatches the eggs.

-When we get the eggs, before incubation either way, what are the best steps to take to give them the best chance at survival? Candle? Sit for 24 hrs?
Read "hatching eggs 101" in the learning center and meticulously follow the instructions for dealing with shipped eggs.

-Should I candle to check progress?
Yes. But, try to do so without disturbing Mama.

-Also, I have 2 broody hens who refuse to sit on separate nests. If I leave everything as is, does it hurt to have them both share the nest and eggs?
Maybe yes, maybe no.

This is what I would do: If you must have shipped eggs, realize that there is a very good chance that you may have very poor success, with either broody hen or incubator. So, I would set up an incubator with calibrated thermometer and hygrometer. (read all of HE101). I would give half of the shipped eggs to the broody, ad keep half of them in the bator. I would also get some local hatching eggs. Back yard mutt eggs will be fine for your purposes. I would give half of these eggs to the broody, and keep half in the bator. That way, you will be sure to get some chicks. If Mama fails, you can slip some bator chicks under her. If bator fails, then hopefully Mama will succeed. If all of the shipped eggs fail, you should have a very good hatch from the local eggs.

While I have had 2 Mallard ducks share a nest and do fine, I would be tempted to try to separate your 2 broodies. But, you know your flock dynamics best, and you should manage them in a way that seems best to you. There is no right or wrong answer to this situation!

 

[Kb0507]

Incubated eggs, in my own experience, can be touchy. For the most part, I expect people who are getting them take the time to do research and know how to monitor their temperature and humidity. However, in shipping, particularly if you're in a remote area, they're likely to be subject to some very rough handling. You have no way to know how old the eggs actually are, other than how much you trust the seller, or how healthy the birds they come from are.

Of the eggs I have put in to incubate on the 1st, I've found indications that at least one hen they were from was not healthy. Three eggs had signs of bacteria in them - one went very bad early on, just by odor, and the other two have been culled since then. One of those three showed early signs of development, then failed.

Do set the eggs broad-end up to rest, aka adjust to your local temperature, for twelve to twenty four hours before putting them in the incubator or under a hen. I also recommend examining each egg, and candling them at that time, to see if the air pockets are intact, saddled, or completely broken loose, and mark the eggs accordingly. If you use an incubator, personally, I would say put them in broad-end up and don't turn them for the first three days. Then turn them normally, but keep the broad end up and just tip them back and forth for any with the air cell completely broken loose.

I like to candle, to make sure everything's developing. That way, if it's not, I can take it out. I just pulled 8 eggs out of my incubator because they were showing no signs of any development, and that was confirmed afterwards. The remaining eggs all have good veins and development.

If you think you might need the incubator, set it up and run it for a week or so beforehand, so you know its quirks. Do make sure you have at least two good thermo-hygrometers in there, that have been tested and calibrated, so that you're sure you know what the temperature and humidity are.

There has been research that suggests spraying eggs with a 3%-5% hydrogen peroxide prior to or during incubation improves hatch rates.

I'm not an expert. Full disclaimer on that. Just research, common sense, and my own, albeit brief, experience.

Thank you so much. All of that information will be very helpful!!

 

[Kb0507]

-Should I separate momma if she sits on them?
Yes, I would separate her to keep the rest of the birds from laying in her nest, and to ensure that she returns to the right nest.

-If so, when should I reintroduce her and the babies back to the flock?
Within the first 2 weeks, while her broody hormones are at their highest.

-If we incubate and then sneak them under her after hatch, do I separate all of them from our flock?
I would not go this route. If you incubate them, the broody may break, or she simply may reject the chicks. Your chances of her being a successful Mama are greatest if she sets and hatches the eggs.

-When we get the eggs, before incubation either way, what are the best steps to take to give them the best chance at survival? Candle? Sit for 24 hrs?
Read "hatching eggs 101" in the learning center and meticulously follow the instructions for dealing with shipped eggs.

-Should I candle to check progress?
Yes. But, try to do so without disturbing Mama.

-Also, I have 2 broody hens who refuse to sit on separate nests. If I leave everything as is, does it hurt to have them both share the nest and eggs?
Maybe yes, maybe no.

This is what I would do: If you must have shipped eggs, realize that there is a very good chance that you may have very poor success, with either broody hen or incubator. So, I would set up an incubator with calibrated thermometer and hygrometer. (read all of HE101). I would give half of the shipped eggs to the broody, ad keep half of them in the bator. I would also get some local hatching eggs. Back yard mutt eggs will be fine for your purposes. I would give half of these eggs to the broody, and keep half in the bator. That way, you will be sure to get some chicks. If Mama fails, you can slip some bator chicks under her. If bator fails, then hopefully Mama will succeed. If all of the shipped eggs fail, you should have a very good hatch from the local eggs.

While I have had 2 Mallard ducks share a nest and do fine, I would be tempted to try to separate your 2 broodies. But, you know your flock dynamics best, and you should manage them in a way that seems best to you. There is no right or wrong answer to this situation!

-Should I separate momma if she sits on them?
Yes, I would separate her to keep the rest of the birds from laying in her nest, and to ensure that she returns to the right nest.

-If so, when should I reintroduce her and the babies back to the flock?
Within the first 2 weeks, while her broody hormones are at their highest.

-If we incubate and then sneak them under her after hatch, do I separate all of them from our flock?
I would not go this route. If you incubate them, the broody may break, or she simply may reject the chicks. Your chances of her being a successful Mama are greatest if she sets and hatches the eggs.

-When we get the eggs, before incubation either way, what are the best steps to take to give them the best chance at survival? Candle? Sit for 24 hrs?
Read "hatching eggs 101" in the learning center and meticulously follow the instructions for dealing with shipped eggs.

-Should I candle to check progress?
Yes. But, try to do so without disturbing Mama.

-Also, I have 2 broody hens who refuse to sit on separate nests. If I leave everything as is, does it hurt to have them both share the nest and eggs?
Maybe yes, maybe no.

This is what I would do: If you must have shipped eggs, realize that there is a very good chance that you may have very poor success, with either broody hen or incubator. So, I would set up an incubator with calibrated thermometer and hygrometer. (read all of HE101). I would give half of the shipped eggs to the broody, ad keep half of them in the bator. I would also get some local hatching eggs. Back yard mutt eggs will be fine for your purposes. I would give half of these eggs to the broody, and keep half in the bator. That way, you will be sure to get some chicks. If Mama fails, you can slip some bator chicks under her. If bator fails, then hopefully Mama will succeed. If all of the shipped eggs fail, you should have a very good hatch from the local eggs.

While I have had 2 Mallard ducks share a nest and do fine, I would be tempted to try to separate your 2 broodies. But, you know your flock dynamics best, and you should manage them in a way that seems best to you. There is no right or wrong answer to this situation!

Thank you for taking the time to respond and for all of the great information! I will read through both of the articles you recommended. I think I will definitely separate the hens. Even though they are good buddies, I don't want to take any chances. I'll also see if I can find some local eggs that I can use as well to up my chances of a good hatch. Thanks again

 

[BlueShadow]

-What are your preferences when incubating shipped eggs?
Here is what I am doing with mine - let set for 24 hours, then set them in the incubator. Don't turn the first 2 days.

-Which do you think would have a better hatch rate?
I have 2 hens currently broody and I set my shipped eggs in my incubator. I will put the chicks under the hens after hatching if hens are still broody at that time. Shipped eggs hatch better if incubated upright and not turned hte first two days, neither of which is possible under a hen. Plus I don't want to risk these eggs in case she decides to leave the nest.

-Should I separate momma if she sits on them?
I always do. Even with barnyard eggs. I make a separate nest out of a cardboard box, put fake eggs in it, and move it elsewhere in the coop. I put a makeshift pen so she can't go back to her other nest, and has food & water close by. If she stays in it a day or two, then I give her eggs to hatch.

-If so, when should I reintroduce her and the babies back to the flock?
I put broody and fosters together in a very small pen or large cardboard box until her "sit on nest" hormones stop and she is mothering the chicks adequately - leading them to feed & water, warming them up, etc. Then I leave them in a somewhat larger pen in the corner of the coop. When she is ready to introduce them to the flock, she will fly out of the pen. (My broody - like 2 weeks or so. I thought it was too young, but there was no keeping her in). At that point, I open up the pen a little so they all can get in & out easily.

-If we incubate and then sneak them under her after hatch, do I separate all of them from our flock?
See above. DO THIS WITH CAUTION, NOT ALL BROODIES WILL ACCEPT FOSTER CHICKS. SOME WILL KILL THE CHICKS.

-When we get the eggs, before incubation either way, what are the best steps to take to give them the best chance at survival? Candle? Sit for 24 hrs?
Candle very gently, let sit upright for 24 hours.

-Should I candle to check progress?
Days 7, 14, and 18 (lockdown)

-Also, I have 2 broody hens who refuse to sit on separate nests. If I leave everything as is, does it hurt to have them both share the nest and eggs?
I don't like to do this. I have had some terrible boodies, that poop in the nest box. Yucky eggs, don't hatch. 2 hens = double chance of this happening. Also, when I have 2 laying hens try to use the same nest box at the same time, I sometimes get broken eggs. I don't see why this wouldn't happen with broodies. Finally, sometimes 2 broodies will fight over the chicks, this can result in injuries to chicks and/or hens, or dead chicks. 2 broodies = 2 nest boxes and 2 pens (or at VERY least, nest boxes far enough apart and positioned so they can't see chicks that tumble out of the other nest.)