Need others advice with still air LG incubators?Need advice pg2

You have to place the bator in a VERY controlled environment. I use my "dinning room" and actually put a blanket in the operning to this room and I have a space heater in there.

I have taped the small holes on the bottom of the bator and punched a fair sized one in the lower side.

The turner motor will put off a substantial amount of heat, so be sure this is on and the bator is calibrated with this turning.

I have connected the reserviors in the base of the unit and run a rubber hose to this from the outside so I NEVER open the unit once the eggs are in and turning.

I use a digital thermo/humidity thngy I bought off ebay. It works really well. The small holes on the top of the bator need to be open and not obstructed. I have turned the top around and taped the cord from the front to the back because this is how it should have been in the first place. So the lid is actually on backwards as compared to the way it came.

I DO NOT candle the eggs until day 18. Then I take the turner out and replace it with the screen. As mentioned in a post on this thread, put an extra container of water in there when the turner comes out. Take ONE red plug out NOT two and continue on with the hatching.

When you get peeps, DO NOT open the lid. When you get a chick, DO NOT open the lid. WAIT....... until all that are going to hatch do so. I use the egg carton method (after making sure the chick is in the correct orientation to the air sac). This way I do not worry about the hatched chicks and the unhatched ones.

Candling at day 18 is crucial, take your time. For some reason they are good right after the turning and then they HAVE to find orientation in a steady environment. How a mama hen knows not to turn is beyond me.

If you find that you JUST HAVE to help a chick from the egg, take that one out as quickly as you can and place them in a closed container with a heat lamp and all preset to 95 degrees with a container of water. After the chick is sucesfully hatched remove the water and the lid. Wait unti they are fuzzy butted and then transfer them to your brooder. Usually though, if you just leave the bator alone, the humidity will work with you instead of against you andt he chicks should find their way out.

Remember, once you see a peep, be sure you can see the beak. If the membrane is obstructing the hole, the chick will die eventually. They tend to rest for some time right after they peep.

If you see a peep and withn a few hours you do not see a beak, you will need to open the bator and make the hole so the chick has air to the outside of the shell. This is why the egg carton method is so well tailored to this. Some chicks are so big for the shell, they do not have the required room to get this done.
 
and get the small springfield thermometer ($6) it fits perfect by the turner, i can't get the acurite to fit so i can see it and it just slides off the turner racks
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Ok i am doing a test run on my new incubator. Hum is running between 46-51 and temp I just can't seem to get it right...Has been inbetween 80 and 106. little twist here it goes up a lil twist here it goes down. So i am working and working. Ok so now Whats with the red light? Does it always stay on or does it go off and on?
 
The red light comes on when it is heating, it will go off when the bator has reached the temp you have it set to (by turning the knob). Example: While testing your bator, if the light is off but the temp is too low you will turn the knob just a little until the light comes on. That indicates the bator will put out a little more heat to raise the temp.
I hope I explained that well enough and didn't confuse you.... it's hard to explain and not show.
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I used a still air LG for my first hatch ever. I just added water everyday ( I did not have a gauge for the humidity) and I ended up with 37 chicks out of 42 eggs. Not bad for a first timer. And yes, all are still alive and will be 3wks tomorrow. I have not read all the threads but maybe you can use test eggs then you know what to do for the next hatch. If I can do it, so can you.
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I just took inventory and counted 6 LG. out of 12 bators I own.

I am running a test right now with my oldest LG. No fan, wafer thermostat..

it is at 84F and 89% humidity..

I have a bad wafer, so I cannot get the temp any higher.. but that can be fixed, I am testing the humidity and have that figured out,

I do not have any sponges etc in there..

All I did was duct taped the top to the bottom all the way around..

I only moistened the reservoirs and dumped the excess water out.

.Now I only have to decrease the water and I should be set..

all of the 5 other LG bators have forced air and solid state thermostats.. they are a little touchy to set up, but once set they hold right on.. I am going to duct tape one of them to try to get the humidity up also..
 
I am hatching for the first time with a LG still air with a wafer thermostat. It was the only kind available around here. I will be candling tonight day7-8. I put them in last thursday at 10:30 at night. I had temp problems too. I finially got it steady then when I added the eggs it went all crazy again. so i hope they are okay. it flucuated between 98.9 and 103.5 it finally started staying steady last Tuesday. I found when I thought I was only turning it down a tiny bit it was really more then that. you just barley have to touch the knob at all. My humidity has been between 45 and 52 most of the time I removed a vent plug yesterday because I wanted more air in there and it dropped to 37 When I candle my eggs tonight I will wet the sponge I keep in there. I am not using the reservors because its to hard to get to them with the turner in place.I just lean the sponge up against the side of the bator on the side the turner motor is on.

Good Luck Hope we both have good hatches.
 

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