New babies in coop!

[AmandaLou]

We just let our 11 week old silkies sleep in the coop (in a kennel for protection) for the first time!!!! The older ladies we have didn’t seem to mind, and during the day seem to be curious but not necessarily aggressive. What signs should I watch for that show me it’s ok (or not ok) to let the babies free and up close and personal?!? During the day all that separates them is some garden/deer netting….

 

[DobieLover]

We just let our 11 week old silkies sleep in the coop (in a kennel for protection) for the first time!!!! The older ladies we have didn’t seem to mind, and during the day seem to be curious but not necessarily aggressive. What signs should I watch for that show me it’s ok (or not ok) to let the babies free and up close and personal?!? During the day all that separates them is some garden/deer netting….

If you can keep the bigs in one section and the littles in another section I'd let them get to know each other that way for a few days and then allow them to intermingle provided you have lots of space, things to hide behind and climb on and multiple feed and water stations.

 

[aart]

I'd say longer than a few days,
What are the breeds and ages of the older birds?

Integration Basics:

It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[Mrs. K]

I prefer to let the chicks and chickens work this out. At 4 weeks there should be enough size difference, that you can create openings in the fencing, that allows the chicks to come out and explore the big world, and big birds, and then scurry to safety if needed through openings the big girls can't fit through.

I let my laying hens out of the set up when I go to do this, and then sit down there with a cup of coffee and watch. After a while, the chicks will get brave and explore outside of their area. I let them do that for a while, then I get up, and give a mock chase, so that they scurry back to safety in the safety zone.

Then I let the big girls back in.

I do have a lot of hide outs in my run. I will put a pallet up on cement block so it is pretty close to the ground. Chicks can get under it, and so can a determined hen, but it really slows her down, and the chicks can out run her. I generally have a feed station here too.

Multiple feed stations around the run, out of sight of each other, and one in the safety zone is important.

Mrs K

 

[AmandaLou]

I'd say longer than a few days,
What are the breeds and ages of the older birds?

Integration Basics:

It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

We have 5 ISA browns, and 6 gold-laced Wyandotte’s, all right about 1 yr old….. they are very social and sweet for the most part….

 

[Mrs. K]

We have 5 ISA browns, and 6 gold-laced Wyandotte’s, all right about 1 yr old….. they are very social and sweet for the most part….

How they act with each other, is no indication how they will act towards strange birds entering their coop. Most mature birds will attack chicks if they are not raising them. Some will be heartless and kill them. However, once they get used to them, they will be fine.