New hens not roosting

Joecarbs

Chirping
Jan 11, 2018
26
59
79
Québec
hi,
I just got my chickens today. 3 Plymouth Rock and 1 buff Orpington.
They all went in the coop when it started getting dark but only the Orpington went straight on the roost the others stayed at the bottom of the coop.
It’s only the first night I have them.
Should I go in and put them on the roost or wait it out 1 day or 2 and they will realize to go on by themselves?
 
I would give them time. They are just getting oriented to their new home. Glad to hear they went in the coop! That's the important part....
Good luck!
 
hi,
I just got my chickens today. 3 Plymouth Rock and 1 buff Orpington.
They all went in the coop when it started getting dark but only the Orpington went straight on the roost the others stayed at the bottom of the coop.
It’s only the first night I have them.
Should I go in and put them on the roost or wait it out 1 day or 2 and they will realize to go on by themselves?
How old are your birds?
How much roost length do they have?
Pics of coop and roost would help here.
 
137DC6E8-EEC3-449B-8A87-87C2254F42B9.jpeg
hi, the birds are 14 weeks old.
As you can see on the picture the Orpington stays on the roost pretty much all day. My 3 other hens chase her when she goes down in the run and she comes back up.
I put some food and water in the coop so at least she gets to feed.

The roost seems long enough for all 4 but I can always put one lower
Thanks
 
View attachment 1508924
hi, the birds are 14 weeks old.
As you can see on the picture the Orpington stays on the roost pretty much all day. My 3 other hens chase her when she goes down in the run and she comes back up.
I put some food and water in the coop so at least she gets to feed.

The roost seems long enough for all 4 but I can always put one lower
Thanks
Roost space seems fine.
Were all the birds raised together?
Are you sure they are the same age?
More mature birds are likely to pick on the more immature ones, even a few weeks can make a difference.
But really sounds like typical pecking order stuff.
I'd give it a few more days then if situation is still the same might want to change something up.
What does your run look like?
Places to 'hide' and distract can really help, see pic below, click on pic to see other pics in album.


FYI.....semantics, maybe, but can be important communication terms when discussing chicken behavior.
Female chickens are called pullets until one year of age, then they are called hens.
Male chickens are called cockerels until one year of age, then they are called cocks(or cockbirds or roosters).
Age in weeks or months is always a good thing to note.

 
Wow your run looks great.
Mine is about 8’x8’ but I will definitely had some obstacles and different things to make it more interesting. They were in separate inclosures when I went to get them. The guy told me they were all 14 weeks but the Orpington seems a bit smaller.
 
They were in separate inclosures when I went to get them. The guy told me they were all 14 weeks but the Orpington seems a bit smaller.
Ahh, there's the clincher...so you are doing a bit of a 'single bird' integration here.
Often if all are put into a new place it removes the territoriality aspect,
but could be the maturity aspect is trumping that.
Might be good to have a separate enclosure so you can do some 'chicken juggling',
put the 'bully' birds in there and let the 'bullied' have free reign of the main coop and run for a few hours, then add one of the other birds to the main area and see what happens.
Mix and match between the two areas to throw the pecking order thing off a bit.

Pic of all of them together might tell the tale on age difference.


Here's some tips on integration that might help your situation.
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
 
Ahh, there's the clincher...so you are doing a bit of a 'single bird' integration here.
Often if all are put into a new place it removes the territoriality aspect,
but could be the maturity aspect is trumping that.
Might be good to have a separate enclosure so you can do some 'chicken juggling',
put the 'bully' birds in there and let the 'bullied' have free reign of the main coop and run for a few hours, then add one of the other birds to the main area and see what happens.
Mix and match between the two areas to throw the pecking order thing off a bit.

Pic of all of them together might tell the tale on age difference.


Here's some tips on integration that might help your situation.
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Thanks for all the info,
I added a piece of wood that separates the run in 2 but with openings on either side with another feeder and waterer and I already saw a difference. The Orpington is going down to the run more often and is less bothered by the others because they can’t see her.
If the bullying continues I will try removing the bully and putting her back in the day after
 

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