New puppy needs training asap *Updates and training tips for your puppies!*

I posted this in another thread recently so sorry if this is repeat info but here is the method I use to train my dogs:

I have a pit-bull mix and three pugs. The pit and two of the pugs are rescues from urban shelters with mixed histories of abuse. All four dogs are out in the yard with my 5 chickens everyday without any problems. In fact I once had a chicken attack a dog but never the opposite. Everyone guaranteed me that the pit would kill my chickens but she has never been a problem.

Here is what I personally recommend: The most important thing to focus on overall is controlling your dogs impulse control. Especially with a new puppy. Good basic training makes teaching them anything else so much easier. Make sure that you can snap your dogs attention back to you even when they see something they want. (I can't snap so I use an "aht." noise - this means sit and pay attention to me) One of the best ways to work on this without a live animal present is during feeding. Do you free feed your dogs or do they eat at regular times? I would recommend taking them off of free feeding if you are doing that. Focus on training your dogs so they they will not eat anything unless you give a specific command. I set down all four bowls of food and make the dogs wait. They do not eat until they hear their own name and see a hand gesture. Also work on them stopping eating at a command and willing stepping away from their food. I say "Name, wait." and they stop and sit until told to continue. These skills help with impulse control in many areas of training. It may seem unrelated but to a dog, the one who controls the food is the ruler of them all.

I would introduce the dog to the chickens on a leash and just sit and be calm. As soon as she starts to fixate on the chickens in any way other than simple curiosity or barks or is excited (even happy excited) I would scold her with the same word every time (you only need to say it once, firmly) and immediately take her inside. With my dogs I brought them back when they were calm and started all over again. and again and again. lol. It took a bit of patience but within a few days all of the dogs ignored the chickens and now find very little interest in them at all other than a sniff here or there. I never yelled or hit them or used a choke or a shock. I just said no and took them away immediately at any sign of fixation or barking. Patience is the key and consistency. It sucks because sometimes you are busy and don't want to deal with it but starting and stopping will just make it worse.

Dogs want to make you happy so bad, so if you can just find a way to tell them what you want then they will do it.

For fun, here is my dog, Lou, with a silkie chick who fell in love with her.




Oh my goodness, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for posting this, I am going to use this method and I'll get back to you occasionally and tell you how it's going!
 
I posted this in another thread recently so sorry if this is repeat info but here is the method I use to train my dogs:

I have a pit-bull mix and three pugs. The pit and two of the pugs are rescues from urban shelters with mixed histories of abuse. All four dogs are out in the yard with my 5 chickens everyday without any problems. In fact I once had a chicken attack a dog but never the opposite. Everyone guaranteed me that the pit would kill my chickens but she has never been a problem.

Here is what I personally recommend: The most important thing to focus on overall is controlling your dogs impulse control. Especially with a new puppy. Good basic training makes teaching them anything else so much easier. Make sure that you can snap your dogs attention back to you even when they see something they want. (I can't snap so I use an "aht." noise - this means sit and pay attention to me) One of the best ways to work on this without a live animal present is during feeding. Do you free feed your dogs or do they eat at regular times? I would recommend taking them off of free feeding if you are doing that. Focus on training your dogs so they they will not eat anything unless you give a specific command. I set down all four bowls of food and make the dogs wait. They do not eat until they hear their own name and see a hand gesture. Also work on them stopping eating at a command and willing stepping away from their food. I say "Name, wait." and they stop and sit until told to continue. These skills help with impulse control in many areas of training. It may seem unrelated but to a dog, the one who controls the food is the ruler of them all.

I would introduce the dog to the chickens on a leash and just sit and be calm. As soon as she starts to fixate on the chickens in any way other than simple curiosity or barks or is excited (even happy excited) I would scold her with the same word every time (you only need to say it once, firmly) and immediately take her inside. With my dogs I brought them back when they were calm and started all over again. and again and again. lol. It took a bit of patience but within a few days all of the dogs ignored the chickens and now find very little interest in them at all other than a sniff here or there. I never yelled or hit them or used a choke or a shock. I just said no and took them away immediately at any sign of fixation or barking. Patience is the key and consistency. It sucks because sometimes you are busy and don't want to deal with it but starting and stopping will just make it worse.

Dogs want to make you happy so bad, so if you can just find a way to tell them what you want then they will do it.

For fun, here is my dog, Lou, with a silkie chick who fell in love with her.



My pup is a lab mix rescue from the shelter....I asked if they knew what she may be mixed with and the reply was that every pup that came in with that litter looked like it had a different daddy so, 'no". Anyway, I sort of trained her like ChckensRDinos did. I adopted her on April 13 and started with impulse control the day after she came home. I didn't have chickens yet, but remembered how much easier a dog with impulse control is to handle.

When I got my 2 day old chicks in June, I would take her with me every time I checked on the chicks. I let her "look" at them, but anything beyond that and she got the firm "no" and got taken inside (which is a real punishment in her eyes). Anyway, I don't let her outside with them when I"m not home yet, but this past Saturday, she was out there all day while I was mostly inside cleaning. Whenever I looked out the window and could see her, she was just laying around looking at them.....none went missing so I'm guessing she left them alone!!!

Since she's just six months old, I'm afraid to leave the chickens out of their run when I'm not home....but I really don't think she'll mess with them.

Then again, a lot of it depends on the dog's personality and such...
 
Oh my goodness, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for posting this, I am going to use this method and I'll get back to you occasionally and tell you how it's going!

Yay! I'm glad I can help. I really believe that all dogs can be good dogs if you give them the right tools. I'd love to hear how it's going and feel free to message me. I can give you some more little exercises to work on if you want.
 
I'm so glad you put up this post Simmonsfunnyfrm. I've been thinking about getting a puppy so will be reading about your progress with real interest. :)
 
my method is very similar. Rayden, my eldest GSD, loves fresh rabbit meat. He hunts wild rabbits all the time. However, he accepts any animal that I want him to as a part of his pack. Except the rat; he never did like her. He finally settled for just pretending that she didn't exist.

If you intend to use this little girl for hunting, you shouldn't be leaving her unattended in the yard anyway. She will need to be secured so that she doesn't decide to go hunting all on her own. Dogs that do that often never come home.

Find the closest distance that the dog first notices the birds in the brooder. This might be in another room if he is one to constantly glance at the door. Put your dog on leash and get some extra special treats that he only gets for this work - bacon, grilled chicken (no spices!), hot dog chunks, etc. When the dog glances toward the birds, say his name and "leave it" If he looks at you, give him a treat - if he doesn't, give a light pop on the leash (think tap on the shoulder). When he looks at you reward him.
You can also teach him "watch me" the same way. You can practice this at random times though out the day. If you have a couple extra minutes while you're watching TV or whatever, just say his name, pause, "watch me" When he makes eye contact, then reward him. You can also (if you get in the habit of keeping a small treat in your pockets) catch him looking towards you say "watch me" and then reward. Or just praise him verbally.

Once the dog is reliably paying attention to you and the birds at a distance, move a little bit closer. If he absolutely blows you off, you're too close. Just back up a bit and begin again. Eventually you will be right amongst the birds. You can then start at a distance or with a long line (20' leash or so) and work from there. I never ever leave my dogs/chickens loose unattended together.
I don't even trust Rayden
I don't mean I constantly hover over the dogs when they are out with the birds, but I am in the area and aware of what they are doing. Think of it as a small child. Even though you've taught them not to play with matches, would you leave them alone in the house with matches scattered all over the floor?

The most important part of the training is to set the dog up to succeed. Don't give him a chance to chase the birds. Don't give him a chance to disobey.

ETA: The best thing about teaching "leave it" is that it works for everything. Drop something on the floor and don't want the dogs to touch it? "leave it" See dog running toward a snake? "leave it" Lots of training and work, but it pays off!
Of course, some dogs just can't be trusted off-leash. Period. They are just too focused on the birds. In that case, just confine the dog when the birds are out.
 
Everyone has had wonderful suggestions. I grew up around dogs, but they were other people's dogs, I had cats so I am really grateful for this little education session. Thanks everyone! Oh, and if anyone else has more suggestions, you are welcome to post here!
 
I grew up around hounds and free-range chickens. Same hounds served inadvertantly as guardians for poultry and other livestock. Pups could be problematic around birds but training could be used to stop losses. Best technoque to prevent losses in beginning was to house pups in very close proximity to adult birds. Then follow training techniques suggest if desired to dissengage attention towards birds. Key consideration though concerning evaluation of training is you do not want dog to react towards birds as shown in some of the preceding photographs posted. Adorable yes but dog is not ready to be trusted with bird when that still occuring.
 
Hello everyone! I thought it was about time for a little update on Naga's training progress. As far as general behavior, she is a perfect angel compared to other puppies I have known. She is calm indoors and playful outdoors. I have been taking her with me to my parents' place (they have several dogs) and the local running trail to get her socialized (not that she needs a whole lot of work in that area.) Several joggers have stopped what they were doing and asked to cuddle her
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and yesterday I brought her to hubby's friend's mother's place to hang out while he helped his friend move next door. She has a large assortment of dogs, some huge and friendly and some small and downright vicious. She was also watching her little grandson, so at times it was loud and chaotic in the house. She just chilled with me on the couch, never whined, never had an accident, and she made friends with the bullmastiff/pitbull mix who fell in love with her
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it was adorable. But enough about what she's good at, let's get down to business.

Chickens: I have been taking her out to the fenced in yard where the chickens live on a short lead and at first we will just sit out there and watch. She has made a little progress in leaving them alone. If she tries to chase them I give her a little jerk on the lead, just enough to get her attention and say 'leave it'. It only takes one time and she will not try again for the remainder of the 10 minute session, but the next time we go out there she still tries to run up to them and we will do the 'leave it' command once and she quits again. All in all, I am pleased with her progress in this over a 5 day period. We do this once a day. I will say the chickens are no longer afraid of her on sight. The 2 RIR girls will even come right up to her and let her have a sniff, but of course they all scatter if she tries to run and play with them.

Potty training: Naga has done well with potty training from the start and has had few accidents. I have been training her by lots of praise and occasional treats when she goes outside. When she does have an accident, I remove her from the area but I don't scold her. While she can't see me, I clean it up with vinegar and as soon as I'm done we go outside. This seems to be working, but lately it's kind of like she has decided she prefers going inside. She still doesn't mess in the house often, but for example, last night when we got home I put her on the ground to see if she would do anything for a couple minutes. She didn't and soon ran up to the door like she does when she's ready to go in. Not five minutes after we went inside, hubby saw her pee on the floor. Incidents like this are actually starting to happen more often than when I first got her. What am I doing wrong? I am afraid she is regressing in this department.

General obedience: Naga has 'sit' down perfectly after four days of training. She even tends to pay attention to me when there are small distractions, like if the cat decides to interrupt a training session for a petting. She has about a 60% response on 'leave it' and 'stay'. We started learning 'lay down' a few days ago and she doesn't quite get that one yet, but she is making an effort to learn it and has done it a few times with my assistance. I am training her mostly with praise, but sometimes I give her a treat just to keep her on her toes. During mealtimes, we practice 'stay'. I pour the food and have her watch me put it on the floor but I make her wait 10 seconds before letting her eat. Once or twice, I have her stop eating and wait, then let her have it again to teach who's in charge of the food like Chickensrdinos suggested. She is doing well in this! She has gotten to where she will do it as long as I have my hand making a 'stop' sign close to her face, but she can't resist if I just give her the command yet. Good progress in this area. The only thing we are having a little problem with is how she plays with the cat. I know she is just playing but sometimes she can kinda scare the kitty by chasing her too enthusiastically. Mai has stopped hissing at her and even tries to play back sometimes, but Naga does not yet know her boundaries and can get too much in Mai's face which scares her a little. When she is playing too rough, I grab her by the collar, make her sit, and tell her to calm down while petting her. She will, but the moment I let her go it's on again. This is one area where she more often will not listen to me. The cat's fine, she can always jump up where Naga can't reach her, but I wish this would stop so she doesn't do this when she weighs 60lbs. Any suggestions?

Crate training: This last area is also going very well. Half the time when I put her in (usually during the day when hubby and I are both leaving for work) she will whine for about 5 minutes but eventually calms down. At night, she is whining less and less, and last night she only did for a few seconds. I always put her toys in with her and a few treats so she associates it with something pleasant. Unfortunately all we have is a nylon pop up crate (if you recall, she came as a surprise and we weren't immediately prepared) so it is flimsy. Luckily, she is calm enough that it still serves its purpose but that would definitely not be the case with all puppies/dogs. Sometimes I wake up or come home and it is half collapsed either from her trying to get out or the cat antagonizing her when she's unable to get her back
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We are getting a proper kennel for her this week. She generally does good about sleeping through the night (about 6 hours right now), and has been sleeping an average of 20-30 minutes longer every night. I quit giving her food or water three hours before bed so she has not been waking me up to go out. When she did do that, I took her out, not roughly but uncerimoniously and we went outside, very businesslike. As soon as she did her thing I just said 'good girl' and then immediately took her back in. This has been working for us.

Well for those of you following I hope this has been informative! It was certainly not a 'little' update, sorry
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but I hope this thread will serve as a help to those of you who find yourselves in my position in the future. Thank you for your input! Any advice is, as always, much appreciated.
 

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