New to chickens! Please help with diet question!!

[Repochick78]

Hello! Forgive me if I’m posting this in the wrong spot, I’m new to this site as well as chickens!! Eeeek!! I will be getting 8 adult chickens this week. I dont know what kind of feed they have been getting. I’m assuming for various reasons that it’s most likely the cheapest that can be found at the store.
I’m a firm believer in eating clean and natural as much as possible and that you absolutely eat what your food eats. So my question is, once I get them and begin feeding them a diet I am comfortable with, when could I consider their eggs “clean”? TIA!!

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC.

I have nothing to say in re: the "clean" issue, but many people here recommend using an all-flock type feed in the 18-20% protein range with oystershell served on the side instead of the common 16% layer feed that has calcium included.

The reasoning being that said layer feed was developed specifically to feed high-production commercial layers at the lowest cost point that would keep them going for their first laying season. Long term health was not a consideration because commercial layers are culled when they enter their first molt.

Dual-purpose breeds are often larger, lay less efficiently, and are often kept through multiple molts as pets-with-benefits rather than strictly livestock so a higher-protein feed *generally* has better results -- especially if indulgent owners offer a lot of "treats". A

Are these chickens currently laying? Sometimes the disruption of being moved will send them into a molt or, at least, stop them laying for a while.

 

[3KillerBs]

P.S. If you put your general location into your profile people will be able to give you better-targeted advice. Climate matters.

 

[Repochick78]

Welcome to BYC.

I have nothing to say in re: the "clean" issue, but many people here recommend using an all-flock type feed in the 18-20% protein range with oystershell served on the side instead of the common 16% layer feed that has calcium included.

The reasoning being that said layer feed was developed specifically to feed high-production commercial layers at the lowest cost point that would keep them going for their first laying season. Long term health was not a consideration because commercial layers are culled when they enter their first molt.

Dual-purpose breeds are often larger, lay less efficiently, and are often kept through multiple molts as pets-with-benefits rather than strictly livestock so a higher-protein feed *generally* has better results -- especially if indulgent owners offer a lot of "treats". A

Are these chickens currently laying? Sometimes the disruption of being moved will send them into a molt or, at least, stop them laying for a while.

I don’t know Much about them prior to last week. From what I gather they have not been free ranging but stuck in a coop for a couple months (although they are being cleaned up after and taken care of). They told me that until about a month or so ago they were laying 6-8 eggs a day but now only about 2 a day (out of all 8) so I’m not sure if it’s due to the time of year or that their feed may have been changed. They were taken from their owner and put in a lot until someone claimed or “adopted” them. So I know for sure they have been under a little bit of stress for at least 2 mo. However, when I saw them they looked very healthy and happy considering all things.

 

[Repochick78]

P.S. If you put your general location into your profile people will be able to give you better-targeted advice. Climate matters.

Ok, will do! Thank you!! Still learning

 

[3KillerBs]

I don’t know Much about them prior to last week. From what I gather they have not been free ranging but stuck in a coop for a couple months (although they are being cleaned up after and taken care of). They told me that until about a month or so ago they were laying 6-8 eggs a day but now only about 2 a day (out of all 8) so I’m not sure if it’s due to the time of year or that their feed may have been changed. They were taken from their owner and put in a lot until someone claimed or “adopted” them. So I know for sure they have been under a little bit of stress for at least 2 mo. However, when I saw them they looked very healthy and happy considering all things.

Good luck with them.

You'll find a lot of information here -- one of our members describes it as trying to take a sip from a firehose.

 

[Sally PB]

Have you looked into what feed is available, at TSC or FFH, if you have those stores nearby?

I'm firmly in the "all flock" or starter/grower feed camp, with a protein percentage of 20%. I was feeding organic starter/grower, but due to cost have had to switch. I found what I thought was a good compromise in "non-GMO, 20% flock maker" from Kalmbach.

I like the 20% protein because then I don't need to worry that they are shortchanged on protein if I give them some treats. That said, their #1 "treat" is their regular food, wetted down into a mash. They love it, and I can dress it up with vegetable scraps or whatever I have on hand that they might like to eat.

If you have questions, and I'm sure you will, start a new thread. That's more likely to get answers than to keep adding on to this thread. Give the thread a name with what you're specifically asking, and people who know will be more likely to see it and respond.

And,

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

Okay… what I would do.

1 chose a higher protein feed that is whole grain and a good pellet or crumble feed, start mixing 50/50 and gradually transition it to 100% whole grain mix and seeds type mix. The reason I would do this is most likely they have been fed pellets or crumble their whole lives prior to you. I start my chicks right away on a mix of chick starter crumbles, seeds, grit, small whole or cracked grains, bugs and fresh fruits, sprouts and veggies… they do great and transition great onto whole grain feed as they get older.

I avoid corn based feed myself, I have my reasons, because I feed no corn my only option is organic no soy as well. I am not anti soy and organic does raise feed cost just so you are aware. I have hand mixed but it takes research, creativity in getting nutrients and lots of hunting around for feed ingredients. I did it because at the time no one in my county sold corn free chicken feed… it was an adventure... good premixed feeds have made my life easier.

2 supplement water with probiotic, electrolytes, oregano tea, or poultry vitamins for water (ACV only if your watering system has no metal.. vinegar will leach out metals of waterer into water and hurt your birds).

3 add lots of fruits, veggies, herbs, spices, sprouts, greens, kitchen scraps, seeds, seaweed, bugs, worms, dried and frozen shrimps/fish, liver, other protein sources to diet… if your lawn is not treated they usually like grass clippings too. Cottage cheese even. Chickens are omnivores, never forget that when thinking about their nutritional needs.

4 offer grit and oyster shells

The Eggs for You

If I was worried about their eggs health for my end use.

I would eliminate corn as it is linked to cholesterol in animals such as farm raised fish and cattle. Different countries use different grains to feed chickens and is probably why nutritional data from Asian countries is different from Western countries. What you feed the hens is reflected in egg taste, yolk colour, yolk consistency (my chicken produce eggs that are always bright yolk and the consistency is not like water whereas the store ones are always pale yellow and the whites watery), and end nutrition to you. Junk feed = junk eggs for you is my philosophy on eggs, even organically fed commercial chickens may not be getting proper nutrients for best egg quality for you. Your goals here should be proper nutrition for your birds first and lowering bad cholesterol causing elements in their feed... think heart healthy for them = healthy heart for you too. You want good fats in their diets via good sources. A little corn is okay now and then but should be just a treat in my opinion, not the daily feed.

I would document the eggs they lay as follows as I change their feed…
weight, photo and inspect uncracked eggs, crack eggs (thin or thick shell… do I notice a change in shells), look at yolk colour, and egg white consistency, number of eggs flock lays daily... if it is possible to match eggs to individual birds I would probably do that too… to help gauge how each hen is doing.

My expectations based on my flock keeping experience and comparing my bird’s eggs to friends flocks eggs who are on different diets and store bought organic and non organic eggs is you should see a gradual improvement in egg shell thickness (the eggs should get dang hard to break), egg yolk should get bright, whites should thicken up. My birds tend to have super bright dark yellow yolks, thick whites, hard shells regardless of breed but then my feeding goals are to feed them to live long to the best of my ability, in addition I allow them to free time in my yard, they have a big communal pen as well, so lots of exercise potential, sunshine, foraging time on top of me doing my best to feed them well. I have had my ups and downs in learning what my flock needs too, so expect you might have to tweak the diet as needed. I learned some of my breeds needed more protein early on to prevent them craving new feathers of fellow birds and egg eating… I try to always get extra protein and vitamins in them during molting for example on top of normal feed.

I think you will notice the improvement within a month. If your worried about medications or something like that probably a thirty day waiting period would be good.

PS you can crush the shells and scramble the eggs you crack open cook and feed back to them, it won’t hurt them and will just be extra supplement. Yes there might be trace elements in these eggs but by the end of a reasonable wait period it should be okay. Always cook the eggs never feed raw or shell in such away they know it is eggs… they will start cracking and eating own eggs... eggs are yummy.

Ethical and Religious considerations in feed… okay if this is an issue you need to be very honest with yourself about chickens not being humans… so please consider their nutritional needs first… there are ways to do everything but make sure you choose feeds after understanding their nutrition a bit so they stay healthy. You are keeping feathered dinosaurs who in nature forage for lizards, worms and bugs on top of wild seeds, grains and plants. Chickens are a Kosher and Halal food source both from eggs and meat. (Disclaimer I am not a rabbi, this is my understanding) To be Kosher your chicken must have 4 toes, three in the front one in the back. What a chicken eats does not make the chicken meat or eggs not Kosher or Kosher… it’s the fact it meets the rules in the Bible/Torah. The religious rules even state animals do not need to be fed human food… you can of course, but it is not an expectation or even practical for society or nutrition of the critter. Big Kosher egg/meat commercial facilities feed their birds special diets to make their life easier… Passover requires that 5 grains be absent from hearth, home and farm under modern orthodox rules… just easier not to feed those all year, then to purge a huge operation of the 5 grains yearly. For regular folks these grains are temporary removed yearly and returned, pets, zoo animals and livestock simply fed differently for that time period only. The main thing is if you do feed your animals non Kosher food you must keep it away from human Kosher food… for instance store not with your food. Pretty simple really. Some people do feed only Kosher human quality feed too, but then they are usually mixing feed… and the grain is for both them and animals.

I hope this helps

 

[3KillerBs]

1 chose a higher protein feed that is whole grain and a good pellet or crumble feed, start mixing 50/50 and gradually transition it to 100% whole grain mix and seeds type mix.

The caveat here is that in many, if not most, cases such feeds are better fed fermented or, at least, wet, in order to make it more difficult for the birds to pick out their favorite bits and give themselves nutritional deficiencies.

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

The caveat here is that in many, if not most, cases such feeds are better fed fermented or, at least, wet, in order to make it more difficult for the birds to pick out their favorite bits and give themselves nutritional deficiencies.

Yes wetting the feed or fermentation might help as well. My birds will eat anything almost… lol so I can be a bit more cavalier with them. But when feeling out a new group of birds, introducing new feeds you do have to sometimes really experiment. Fermentation has some good advantages. Wetting is probably going to be the easiest though for a new keeper. I fermented the chick starter I use at first and in a natural setting of no commercial feeds baby chick feed on a lot of moisture containing foods vs dry as the bone crumbles... so I wanted that moisture content and to start getting grit and probiotics in them as soon as possible being my logic. I did super small batches as a result.

I am thinking the main thing here is getting the flock‘s digestive system and nutritional needs met in a way that Repochick78 is comfortable with and not overwhelmed. Then making sure the eggs are meeting her food safety goals for her as well.

Don’t be afraid to try new things Repochick78, but it’s okay to do so in steps. Also don’t be surprised if you get conflicting advice, lol we all have different experiences, knowledge bases, lifestyles and interests that influence our chicken journeys so ask lots of questions. I’ve learned a lot from folks and there are folks here that we will probably always disagree on a few things but I respect and they give good solid advice even if we disagree something.

Repochick78 also don’t be afraid to explain to us what your nutrition goals or concerns are for you concerning your birds eggs or long term flock goals. Most of us are cool supporting folks. It makes it easier for us to direct you to threads or resources you will find useful or even specific BYC folks who we know are legit experts or doing something similar.