NEW to chickens

[mooseknuckle]

planning on 10-12 chickens what should the ratio of hens to roosters? should i get adults or chicks

 

[Firsttimehens1234]

planning on 10-12 chickens what should the ratio of hens to roosters? should i get adults or chicks

I would say that you only need one rooster to take care of 10 hens. I would also get mine as chicks if you want to watch them grow up and if you would like almost pet chickens. If you just want them for the eggs you it’s cheaper for you to just buy adult chickens. It really depends on what you want

 

[Sussex19]

planning on 10-12 chickens what should the ratio of hens to roosters? should i get adults or chicks

Welcome to BYC!
One rooster should be perfect for that about of hens.
Chicks need a brooder and heat source until they are 6 weeks old, were as adults don't. However, when I was starting out, I got adults, and possible a disease (Mareks) along with them. So now I don't want to sell any, for fear of passing it on. Based on that, I would recommended chicks from a reliable source, thus saving any anxiety about that in the future.
But I really think its up to you, and what you think would work best in your situation.

 

[saysfaa]

One rooster. Or zero. A surprising number of people don't realize that a rooster isn't necessary for a happy, egg laying flock.

If you do want a rooster or want fertile eggs, you might consider having just hens first. Especially if you start with chicks. Adult hens will teach a young cockerel manners better than his peers can.

 

[Callender Girl]

You're getting good advice already, can't disagree with any of it.

I love to hear my two roosters sound off. However, one is permanently housed in a coop and run with his two hens because Sir Henry the Loud will "romance" any hen, any time if allowed to free range during the day. The other, Bantam Billy Boy, will attempt to breed the loose hens and his coop mates, but the full-sized girls -- and even the two fierce Bantam hens, generally rebuff his efforts. It echoes what @saysfaa said: my girls were grown up when they met Billy Boy and just don't tolerate his nonsense.

Aside from fertilizing eggs, roosters really aren't necessary.

I lucked out with the few chickens I've gotten as adults as none have brought any illnesses with them (after suitably quarantining them just to be safe). It's nice to have eggs right away. But I really prefer getting chicks and watching the little fuzzballs grow up. Sometimes, that means friendlier adults; sometimes, it doesn't.

In any case, good luck with your venture, and let us know what you do!

 

[3KillerBs]

planning on 10-12 chickens what should the ratio of hens to roosters? should i get adults or chicks

Welcome to BYC. Thanks for including your location, it makes it easier to give better-targeted advice.

To answer your specific questions,

I was initially advised to keep hens only for the first year and only deal with males later. This is because cockerels often present problem behaviors that spoil the joy of chicken-keeping for many newbies and so having a year of experience with chickens helps you deal with that and also, as mentioned above, because cockerels raised by adult hens learn better chicken manners.

The usual suggested ratio for maximum fertility is one male for every 10 females. BUT that really doesn't have anything to do with backyard conditions. Some people keep more males, some fewer, but every additional male comes with an increase in likely problems -- from barebacked hens to bloody fights to the death.

There are advantages and disadvantages to raising your own chicks. One main advantage is that you can choose exactly what you want from the hatchery or, at least, pick out chicks from the farm store bins.

The disadvantage is the space, equipment, and setup necessary to brood them and the time it takes for them to get to the point of laying.

The advantages of buying chickens -- Point-of-Lay pullets are the most desirable (that is, young females who are within a month or so one way or the other of laying their first eggs), are cost (POL's are the most expensive), the chance that the stress of moving will stop them laying for a while, the chance that an unscrupulous dealer will deceive you about their age and production capabilities^, and the chance of bringing disease or other issues into your flock.

One option, if you know anyone who already keeps chickens, is to have your chicken-keeping friend who already has the necessary brooder setup, raise the chicks for you -- maybe splitting an order from the hatchery.

^I sell both POL and cull adults on Craigslist and try very hard to make sure my buyers understand that an 18-month-old hen sold in September will probably molt and stop laying until spring but a lot of sellers will not make that extra effort.

 

[3KillerBs]

And now for some questions you didn't ask.

Chickens housing needs, especially space and ventilation:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

12 hens

• 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
• 12 feet of roost
• 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
• 12 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

My article on coop ventilation. Repecka Illustrates Coop Ventilation

Since you're in moderate-to-hot climate: Hot Climate Chicken Housing and Care

You said you eventually want 10-12 chickens. Are you intending to cycle your flock or keep them as permanent "pets with benefits"?

Hens lay best during their first season then their laying capabilities fall off more and more after each molt. Two common ways to deal with this problem are to replace half the flock every year or to replace a third of the flock every year so that you always have young girls laying at their peak along with the older ladies, who will usually lay fewer but larger eggs.

 

[Ridgerunner]

planning on 10-12 chickens what should the ratio of hens to roosters?

Why do you want a rooster? What are your goals regarding a rooster? The only reason you need a rooster is if you want fertile eggs, everything else is personal preference. Nothing wrong with that, I have a few personal preferences myself. But those are wants, not needs. I find it easier to respond with meaningful advice if I know what you are working with and what you are trying to accomplish.

My basic suggestion is to keep as few males as you can and still meet your goals. That's not because you are guaranteed more problems with more males but the more you have the more likely you are to have issues. Some people are happy to not have any roosters, some people would not have a flock without a rooster. So if we know your goals and reasons maybe we can help you come up with a number. Then maybe we can work with you to determine how to manage having that number.

should i get adults or chicks

If you get adults you know the sex. It doesn't always work that way with baby chicks. You do not have to brood them, so you avoid the equipment and facilities for brooding and the work of brooding. Adults can manage whatever weather you have, baby chicks probably need heat and more shelter. You should get eggs quicker with adults unless you get an unscrupulous seller.

If you get baby chicks from a reliable source like a hatchery the risk of them bringing in a disease or parasites is really small. If they come from a feed store the risk is still small but not quite as small. If they are older than just hatched chicks or come from a private individual the biosecurity risk goes up. If you get them all at the same time and don't already have chickens quarantine is not helpful. Lots of people bring in older chickens without issues but the risk is there.

If you want lap chickens it is usually easier to train them if you start with baby chicks. You can still train older chickens but it will probably be harder and they may never be as trusting. If you start with baby chicks all the same age, even from different sources, integration should be a breeze. Even if they are from the same source integration with older chickens can be more difficult. They are going to have to set up a new pecking order. Sometimes that is really easy but sometimes it can get pretty violent.

If you start out with baby chicks you have to take them through puberty. That can be really rough with an immature cockerel or two but even an all-girl flock can have issues. Watching juveniles go through puberty can be really hard to watch, but sometimes it is really peaceful. You never know but often it is not that peaceful.

I have no idea which is best for you. It has to be your decision because my goals, wants, preferences, facilities and so much more are going to be different from yours.

 

[Iluveggers]

I hope you don’t mind me making a suggestion! I would get 6 chicks this year, and then get 4-6 chicks next year. Doing this, you spread out molting a bit and help replenish eggs when your older group takes a break (the new ones will just be starting when the old ones take a break). Next year, if you decide you want a rooster, you can add him in the second group, and the older hens will put him in his place when his hormones start picking up.

If you really enjoy one or two of the breeds you picked for the first group, you can add your favorites as the second group.

Good luck!

 

[SourRoses]

I came here to suggest starting with less and I see others have already said so

As unexpectedly fun as chicken keeping can be, a dozen is a lot to start out with.
It means more chores and a harder time picking out individual behaviors and getting to know your hens.
The exception to this is if you have egg customers lined up and that's your main goal.

If you're ordering from a hatchery and picking sexed chicks, the accuracy ratio means that more than likely at least one will be a cockerel. Unless you choose a breed that is autosexing in one way or another (there are quite a few where coloring indicates sex).