new update..........losing them all

roll8221

Songster
13 Years
Sep 4, 2008
111
0
202
Central Florida
I have some week old poish chicks that i purchased from welp and they are drooping thier wings,chirping alot,no blood in stool, eyes are half closed,stop eating and drinking as much and just kind of lay down and die.some it takes awhile, some not so long. i lost ten just this morning alone. no other symptoms that i can see. what could it be and how can i treat it? ive been told everything from cocci to pollorum, and been told to treat with a brew of feed and bcomplex and vitamin e and water to sulmet to teramycin from welp themselves. the teramycin actually seemed to cause alot of them to worsen. the hatchery has said that they may be able to compensate me which was very nice of them but i want my polish. me and the mrs have wanted them for some time now. i figure at least half of them are gone. really sad. they were all the colors we wanted and bearded too. exactly what we wanted. there is only one left of two of the colors so even if some do survive we will be short a few colors. sorry to ramble on but it kinda sucks........ anyway....thanks for any help given or thoughts on the subject.
 
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When I hear convulsions, I think two things: Poison and injury. In this situation, I lean poison. You should probably check out your bedding, your brooder, adn everything else they can get their mouths on. What kind of bedding are you using? Is your brooder painted? Is there metal? Is there medicine in their feed or vitamins in the water? Things like that.
 
they are in pine shavings (the large flakes) in a plastic rubbermaid bin. and they are eating medicated chick feed and tap water. they may have gotten ahold of a scrap corn on the cob.
 
they now have another symptom. brownish orange snot-like poo. does that help?? ive lost about six more and two more on thier way. i am isolating them as i catch them and changing the bedding just dont know how to treat or what it could be.
 
you have gotten chicks that have E.coli infection
you must give them strong Vit E and B complex

do this for the whole group of chicks don't mix the sick onee with not sick ones but feed both groups this
wet mash (for each chick)
2 tsp of dry crumbles for amt of chicks to feed
4 tsp of water for each chick feed
multiply by number of chicks to be fed
Add dry vits before water amt

now crumble in a tbsp 3 of the Vit B complex pills and add to the amt for 9-10 chicks

also take 1 Vit E 1000mg per chick fed each time and cut the end off the pill and add to the wet mash
add the liquid Vit E to wet mash after water is mixed in

stir good so both vitamins are mixed good for all the chicks

email me for more infor matrion to help you out PM me
 
All animals, including you and I, have e-coli in the pooh
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Like I said, try treating coccidiosis.
 
I doubt that they have coccidiosis and only be that young
have they been on soil at all?
Did the manure have blood in it?

and the coccidiosis meds is very strong

yes just get the vit's at walmart as they are for humans and really clean up this manure issue
Vit E is very important in this treatment

This is from my friend Nathalie Ross about the issues you can have

Nathalie Ross
(1) I think it might be helpful for you to know that coccidia are very VERY hard to trace in a fecal. When I worked as a vet tech, it
was common procedure to go ahead and treat with a combination antibiotic/antiprotazoan medication like Sulfa products (Sulmet being the most common) based on symptom diagnosis rather than physical evidence of the
oocysts. ( sulmet is too harsh on chicksGLH)

(2) This is less true of other parasites like roundworms and such, but still true. Often vets recommend a routine worming program to kill worms not found. Worms aren't always shed into the fecal matter, nor are their eggs, but that doesn't mean they aren't up there chowing down on your birds' food in the gut and leaving scars which make it harder
for the birds to digest feed in the future.

(3) So, think about a twice a year worming program. My personal program is
to worm in the fall with Ivermectin, in the spring with either Ivermectin or another BROAD spectrum medication like tramisol or worm-ex.
(4) Note: I didn't mention piperazine. Piperazine is a one-worm wormer - rounds only. You'll want to use it for your very first worming to decrease the parasite loads (which are undetectable unless they're really very
heavy) to prevent the possibility of the bird going into anaphylactic shock or being blocked. These two last dreadful things can happen if there are parasites up there you don't know about, and you use a
super-wormer (like the 2 mentioned above) which kill everything all at once. So
do piperazine the first time, or with new birds with unknown histories,
then use the super-wormers from then on.

(5) Anyway, back to your problem. At 2-7 weeks, the babies are still in the
process of getting their gut bacteria in order. See, they're born without any bacteria at all in their gut. So they eat at day 2, and put
food in there as a food source for themselves but also for bacteria.
Basically, it's first-come-first-serve for bacteria. If the bad ones get there first, they take over and your birds get ill. IF there are some
good but mostly bad, the same thing happens.
(6) If you give your birds probiotics (substances containing live beneficial bacteria) your GOOD

bacteria will have the advantage. Those good bacteria crowd out the bad,
make it impossible for the bad bacteria to live in anything but minimal numbers, and thus help your birds to stay healthy. So I always
recommend giving probiotics weekly from week 2 til point of lay. Then I move to once a month or as needed.

(A) You can use live-culture yogurt (1 tsp per 8 newly hatched, moving up to 1 teaspoon per point of lay bantam,
(B) 1 tablespoon per point of lay large fowl - no more please). You can
also use powdered livestock probiotics (Probios dispersable powder
being my absolute favorite - it's the choice of exotic bird breeders, and I also have hookbills).

(7) Or, you can go to the human health food store and pick up a human supplement like "acidophilus" (Lactobacilus
acidophilus), or a combination of acidophilus and B. bifidum sold to combat
yeast infections.

(8) The latter is a particular useful thing for a poultry hobbiest to have.

(9) The addition of b. bifidum helps combat thrush.
Thrush is essentially a yeast infection that is common to birds because of
the way their crops store feed in wet conditions.

(10) Things tend to get fungus and yeast there, and thus the yeast infection. That infection
goes throughout the bird's system and is really a mess, so that bifidum/acidophilus mix is the best. Try to find a non-dairy liquid, and you'll
have the ultimate probiotic.

(11)So, there are some options. I'd tend towards those. Also, if you're
prescribed antibiotics for your birds' infection, you'll want to give
PRObiotics daily during treatment. Antibiotics are unfortunately going
to kill the good bacteria which are having such a difficult time getting
established in y our babies as it is. The antibiotics will possibly do
as much harm as good, so combat that bad effect with probiotics. Try
giving them daily for about 3 days after the last batch of medicine.

In case your babies are said to have an infection of E. coli (most
likely case)

(12) then you can try putting some vitamin E in their feed.
Vitamin E helps fix E. coli overpopulations. You know what else helps fight
E. coli? Guess: b. bifidum. It secrets a substance that E. coli just
can't stand. See where this is going?

Anyway, I'll just give you that to chew on. Let me know what you
think or if you need more help. I'm here if you need me.

Nathalie Ross, Houston, TX
 

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