Newly hatched chicks dying

Sorry, I don't believe in the "survival of the fittest" thing, normally. With chicks dying shortly after hatching and being chilled is usually human error, not natures. Were they totally dried before transferring them to the brooder? Depending on the distance between light and chicks I would use at least a 150w bulb. And I personally dip chicks beak in electrolyte water instead of plain water when putting them in the brooder. It's a tiring job, pipping and zipping and all.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I will get a second lamp and higher wattage bulb too. A second lamp is a good idea, especially as a back up in case the first bulb malfunctions. Looking forward to better success with the next batch of chicks. I'm suprised they are getting chilled. I keep them in the laundry, a windowless room, right in the middle of tge house and got the specialized bulb from the lady who sold me the eggs. She sells baby quails by the thousands each week.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, I don't believe in the "survival of the fittest" thing, normally. With chicks dying shortly after hatching and being chilled is usually human error, not natures. Were they totally dried before transferring them to the brooder? Depending on the distance between light and chicks I would use at least a 150w bulb. And I personally dip chicks beak in electrolyte water instead of plain water when putting them in the brooder. It's a tiring job, pipping and zipping and all.
I use Nutri-Drench in their water, I'll swear by it, it does wonders for a weak chick. Your right masmom, it is tiring dipping their beaks in the waterer, just be glad you don't raise prairie chickens, it's a hundred fold worse!
 
Here is an a good guide with excellent illustration guide of the what the distribution of chicks in a brooder should look like. Temperatures are approximate...once the chicks are started, I regulate my chicks temps according to how they congregate under their light as the illustrations below.:)

Age of Chicks (Weeks) Room Temperature
1 95° F (35°C)
2 90° F (32°C)
3 85° F (29°C)
4 80° F (27°C)
5 75° F (24°C)
6 70° F (21°C)


The above table should be used as a guide only. The best thermometer to use in determining proper brooder temperature is the chick or poultry itself. If the birds huddle too close to the brooder, the temperature is too low. If the chicks tend to congregate some distance away from the heat source the temperature is too high. If the proper brooding temperature is used, the chicks should be evenly distributed over the entire brooding area. The diagrams below show how to use chicks as a guide for the correct brooding temperature.

hover1.jpg

JUST RIGHT

A contented peep, and evenly distributed chicks around the hover indicates comfortable conditions.


hover2.jpg

TOO DRAFTY

When the chicks chirp and wedge behind the hover, There is a draft.



hover3.jpg

TOO COLD

If too cold the chicks will group and pile up under the hover.




hover4.jpg

TOO HOT

If the chicks move away from the heat source and are drowsy the temperature is too warm.
As the birds grow older, lower the temperature about 5 degrees per week until 65° is reached. A temporary increase in brooding temperatures of about 5 degrees may be of value for reducing side effects of stress resulting from handling and moving.
 
Yes piling does cause weakness which could account for those chicks not wanting to be in the pile and then dying.

A special bulb? :) I like using a dimmable red light - keeps the chicks from pecking at each other, lets them get solid rest (not eternally day time) and then I just turn the dial according to how the chicks act like in the helpful post above mine until they don't need it anymore :D no raising/lowering the lamp with a dimmable dial.

I also like to put a big pair of fluffy socks/small stuffed animal under the heat lamp so the chicks can rest against it instead of always pushing against each other lol (they're looking for mom).

Beware of the socks - one time a tiny chick wedged itself in the folded pair of socks, I got it out but I don't think it would have been able to get out by itself :o
 
I use Nutri-Drench in their water, I'll swear by it, it does wonders for a weak chick. Your right masmom, it is tiring dipping their beaks in the waterer, just be glad you don't raise prairie chickens, it's a hundred fold worse!
Forgot to add that I use the Nutri-Drench also. And I meant it's a tiring job for the chicks while pipping and zipping. However, if you have dozens of beaks to dip, that could get tiring too. Especially for prairie chicks lol
 
Yes piling does cause weakness which could account for those chicks not wanting to be in the pile and then dying.

A special bulb? :) I like using a dimmable red light - keeps the chicks from pecking at each other, lets them get solid rest (not eternally day time) and then I just turn the dial according to how the chicks act like in the helpful post above mine until they don't need it anymore :D no raising/lowering the lamp with a dimmable dial.

I also like to put a big pair of fluffy socks/small stuffed animal under the heat lamp so the chicks can rest against it instead of always pushing against each other lol (they're looking for mom).

Beware of the socks - one time a tiny chick wedged itself in the folded pair of socks, I got it out but I don't think it would have been able to get out by itself :eek:
A dimmable dial, what a BRIGHT idea! I use big fluffy Christmas stockings (not the thin felt ones) as a comforter for the chicks. Of course I sew the top so no one gets inside. Machine washable, too!
 
Yes, the bulb that the quail breeder recommended was a silver based globe that reduces glare so it's more comfortable than a standard bulb. I keep the chicks in the house for the first week so previously, i used a 60w, then 40w old style globe as i find those generate a lot more heat. So far, i've had 4 casualties out of about 4 dozen strong chicks. A few laggards are still hatching on day 19. I will tally the results once the incubator is switched off. We all know the old saying about not counting your chicks before they hatch...
 
Everything is good now. 50/70 hatched. 45 chicks survived and are fighting strong. I've had no casualties so far... all the casualties were within 24 hours of hatching. The first to hatch were bigger and stronger, would peck the head and feet, then trampled their younger siblings. That resulted in the affected bird sulking in the dark corner to get away from the mayhem. A newly hatched bird in a cold corner would waste away. Newly hatched quails are disadvantaged as it takes a couple of days for their toes to uncurl and get enough leg strength to run. I will seperate the next batch and isolate the late hatchers for a day to allow them to recover. Quail chicks are so tiny and cute but can be so mean. Like being in high school, it's tough being the little guy. Here is a pic for comparison of the sizes of an early and late hatcher. Hard to believe they are from the same brood... them little buggers surely grow fast. Thanks for all your help peeps.
 

Attachments

  • 20170713_020549.jpg
    20170713_020549.jpg
    221.5 KB · Views: 8
Last edited:

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom