Nutrition especially for your Peas

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frenchblackcopper said:
My feed will be mixed tomorrow. I'm going to use soybean meal this time at 48% protein but it's 26cents per pound bulk. Corn distillers gluten is 22-23% protein and is 13 cents per pound bulk. I've been feeding all my peas cracked corn mixed with their 16% crumbles for the past two weeks to get them used to whats going to be in their feed bowls tomorrow.When this first ton of feed is gone,we plan on getting hempseed in the next batch,and then seeing about using fish meal as a protein source.Do some checking on both hempseed and fish meal. Compare the Omega 3 and Omega 6 in hempseed compared to flaxseed and the fish meal is supposedly the very best source of protein,although I do not know it's cost but when needing 600 pounds per ton,protein is your highest single cost factor.
My first ration to get everyone broken in will be right at 18.6% Protein tomorrow.Not naming everything in this mix,I expect it to cost close to $300 per ton,compared to buying Nutrena 16% crumbles in 50lb bags would cost me $558 @ $13.95 per 50lb bag. I know from reading countless feed analysis tags the Nutrena will not have near the B Vitamins,Amino acids,trace minerals,ir total digestable protein. It does no good to make a 20% protein ration if the Peas digestive system cannot extract most or all of it.
This amount of feed should last me 6-7 weeks,it will feed every bird on the place we have and that number is close to 150,including 2012 and 2013 hatched birds that are here.The next time we make feed we will make two seperate batches and the birds that will be breeding will have added calcium and selenium added. I'm also wanting to try the powder form of Safeguard,which one pound packets can be mixed with 330 pounds of feed. The label at this time only shows it being fed to Turkeys but it would be so convenient to mix enough feed to use with the mixed safeguard to last 12 days,thus overlapping the life cycle of the intestinal worms.The liquid is okay if you take away all water during the day,then use the mixed water with the 10% Safeguard for Goats and watch every pea drink,then move on to the next pen and repeat.The seperation of this in water makes it useless after a few hours once it settles to the bottom of the water bowl.
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Frenchy remember the males do not need the same amount of calcium as the females. Here is an article on diets: http://www.unitedpeafowlassociation.org/CaptiveBirdDietsVersesWildBirdDiets.html
 
I'm not planning to add any extra calcium now,I'm pretty sure after reading the analysis of everything going into the feed plus adding 10lbs of trace minerals I should be fine.
 
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frenchblackcopper said:
He must be from the same genetic branch as Thang
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I think I'll call him Wild Thang II, or maybe WT2, lol. Caught him by myself, sat him in my lap with his legs between my thighs. Then I pinned him against my torso with my left arm while I opened his mouth, inserted syringe *and* took the picture, lol. This is not something every should try as bodily injury to either is a real risk if you aren't comfortable doing this sort of thing. I'm also *very* strong, so it's that much easier for me.
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-Kathy
 
Just a reminder but hopefully we have about 4-5 more weeks before egg laying begins. It's now time to consider what your peas diet needs for egg production and fertility.My winter ration has very little calcium since the hens aren't laying so if you mix feed according to the seasons it's now time to start getting calcium levels into the peas diets at around 2% of the total feed. Remember a hen will use the calcium that she has stored up inside her bone marrow then her legs last.If she is deficient on calcium she will become weak and stop laying eggs altogether. One thing I learned tonight by speaking with Mr Bonnette is even if your feeding a 30% protein ration the egg itself will only be around 14% protein.Increasing this level in a diet does not get into the egg being produced. But the hen herself can build up reserves and what she doesn't need she will poop out. It is better now to start building her reserves up than trying to play catchup after breeding season has begun.Granted over the wintertime we are basically just maintaining the hens body condition and giving her a balanced ration to be able to cope with the cold temperatures. Proteins and fat are needed during the colder seasons where fat can be phased out when it's warmer. Another interesting fact I learned is molasses can be used in peafowl diets,upwards of 15lbs per ton.My feed fed during the winter was around 16.9-17% ptotein levels with a total digestible nutrient (TDN) level of close to 65%.
Mr Bonnette said my ration wasn't bad for making my own "home brew" recipe.He suggested during breedng season to keep protein levels close to 22% and not lower than 20%.Sprinkle oyster shells in top of the feed daily,or course limestone so your birds has to go thru it first to reach the feed otherwise it will stay on the bottom of the feed pan.This should give you adequate calcium during laying season.Trace minerals are cheap and unless you know the analysis of your feed add it to the main feed ration.One vitamin or mineral that is short in a diet can make a very large impact on eggs laid and hatchability.
 

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