NY chicken lover!!!!

Wood does have electrical insulative properties. Not like plastic or glass, which have excellent insulative properties. Wood poles are often used for fencing because it does not conduct electricity very well, however conductivity does change with the water and mineral make up of said wood. I have seen, electricity jump from the wire, to the wood pole during rainy weather, or when things are holding more water. If wood was a total non conductor of electrical current, we would not need to put insulators on wooden poles for our electric wires. It would not hurt to cover the wire with electric tape, in my opinion. Good luck with your new fence! Hopefully that dratted fox will stay clear and get a good ZAP should he try to get in!!!
So, if you peeked at that thread, should I add an extra ground wire or something grounded to a high up wire on a wood coop? Now I have one about 6' to prevent climbing and I am pretty sure only a bear would still have his feet on the ground at that point. :p
 
Lemme think.. I lost one today /sniff, but right now I have.. 6 old biddies, 17 in the growout coop (at least a few roos in there that need to go), 15 in the pullet coop.. and 19 adults + 12 chicks in the big coop. 6 or so of the chicks will be rehomed soon and most of the growout chicks will go over there. So I'll probably have 60ish when all is said and done. Will sell off a few before winter and end with about 50 is my guess.
 
It just occurred to me that I had read that fox stop exert so often to reposition they prey in their mouth, and that you might be able to follow the feathers back toward his den, and put your trap closer to his home.

I did try that when I lost my hen, but the trail vanished.
 
It just occurred to me that I had read that fox stop exert so often to reposition they prey in their mouth, and that you might be able to follow the feathers back toward his den, and put your trap closer to his home.
I did try that when I lost my hen, but the trail vanished.
I did that, but the trail went cold so to speak. =( he must have run down the street with her as the feathers are all on the asphalt. IF the den is near where the trail is it might not actually be on my property, which would be sticky if I found the den. Not even sure who owns THAT property.

Good news is I might have found a home for my remaining older ladies that will allow them free ranging again. =)
 
Last edited:
So, if you peeked at that thread, should I add an extra ground wire or something grounded to a high up wire on a wood coop? Now I have one about 6' to prevent climbing and I am pretty sure only a bear would still have his feet on the ground at that point. :p
I reread the other thread. Now you got me thinking.........I have two wires running around my permanent pen...a wire about 6 inches off the ground and one on top of the fence, both on extended insulators. The fence is 2"X4" welded wire. When I did the electric wire I figured that anything going over would touch the electric wire then the 2x4 wire fence and then ground, but if it tries to climb the coop the top wire sound similar to yours. HHmmm.........I am thinking that a wire unattached to electricity, but to the ground might be a good idea. So that if something is going over, it will hit both wires, be grounded, then get zapped. Did that make sense?And did I answer your question?
 
I reread the other thread. Now you got me thinking.........I have two wires running around my permanent pen...a wire about 6 inches off the ground and one on top of the fence, both on extended insulators. The fence is 2"X4" welded wire. When I did the electric wire I figured that anything going over would touch the electric wire then the 2x4 wire fence and then ground, but if it tries to climb the coop the top wire sound similar to yours. HHmmm.........I am thinking that a wire unattached to electricity, but to the ground might be a good idea. So that if something is going over, it will hit both wires, be grounded, then get zapped. Did that make sense?And did I answer your question?
That's what I was thinking. A separate ground wire. But then I was thinking, I have a tree above this coop. Predator could drop down on roof and climb down also. So was thinking I could staple chicken wire or fencing behind the wiring, on the wood, and ground that - so there'd be a metal 'pad' they step on whether from above or below. But as you can see, the peeps on that thread seem to think the wood boards would be enough grounding. (hey, I created that thread to not clutter up this one and look here I am cluttering up this one! Sorry! :))..

Not sure my relocation of my old biddies will work - the lady is nice and has a ton of land (if you are on here, hi!!) but I think she wants lots o' eggs. I was honest and said they were 2+ year old hatchery hens that have been egg machines so after the next molt the eggs are probably gonna slow down a lot.
 
That's what I was thinking. A separate ground wire. But then I was thinking, I have a tree above this coop. Predator could drop down on roof and climb down also. So was thinking I could staple chicken wire or fencing behind the wiring, on the wood, and ground that - so there'd be a metal 'pad' they step on whether from above or below. But as you can see, the peeps on that thread seem to think the wood boards would be enough grounding. (hey, I created that thread to not clutter up this one and look here I am cluttering up this one! Sorry! :))..

Not sure my relocation of my old biddies will work - the lady is nice and has a ton of land (if you are on here, hi!!) but I think she wants lots o' eggs. I was honest and said they were 2+ year old hatchery hens that have been egg machines so after the next molt the eggs are probably gonna slow down a lot.

OK, I think I got it. It could work. While wood is not exactly an insulator it also is not a conductor..It has too many variables to count on it to work as you want(water content mineral content etc) and as Marsquiella[sp] has said, she did not get a shock when touching a hot wire with wood. If you used insulators instead of staples,and just had the metal"pad" touching the ground it would work very well. If you were using a metal "pad" to prevent overhead predation how would it be grounded? I think I am confused.....

My only wire fence is on metal t posts. When the hot wire touches it,It is not supposed to touch, unless something is going over(fox) and forces it to touch then the entire fence is hot....nasty hot. The fencer goes down to about 2 or 3, but that fence will knock me on my butt.

I hope I am helping and not getting you more confused. What is the fencing that is around the run...the non electric? This is how my fence is set up. you may need to copy and paste
http://books.google.com/books?id=Gx...d=0CFgQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=scare wires&f=false
 
Last edited:
Vmdanielson...

My idea for the pad would require running a ground wire from it to a ground stake. I think my run will work fine as it's a welded wire fence with insulators, but the high up wire on the coop is on wood using insulators.

Typing on my iPad, so hard to blather on much Hee Hee.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom