Official BYC Poll: Which waterer is better: Nipples or cups?

[aart]

HN's all the way, baby!!
Exceptions: just hatched chicks and for dosing electrolytes during heat waves.

When I switched from open water to HN's, I monitored/measured the water usage for a couple weeks before and for weeks after the switch. They drank the same amount from each, maybe more with the HN's because there's no evaporation with HN's like there probably is with open waterers.

That said, I would not recommend switching to from an open waterer to HN's in extreme weather(hot or cold)...it does take some times for them to 'learn' how to use the nipples, some catch on fast while others can take a week or more to really 'get it'.
I always offer an open waterer late in the day to make sure they get enough water to digest properly before going to roost during the 'training' period.

ETA: HN's are the best for freezing climes:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-heated-waterer-with-horizontal-nipples.67256/

They can also be put into almost any vessel(bottle) is care is used to install:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/gallery/albums/aarts-small-water-bottles-and-holder.7427546/

 

[ronott1]

HN's all the way, baby!!
Exceptions: just hatched chicks and for dosing electrolytes during heat waves.

When I switched from open water to HN's, I monitored/measured the water usage for a couple weeks before and for weeks after the switch. They drank the same amount from each, maybe more with the HN's because there's no evaporation with HN's like there probably is with open waterers.

That said, I would not recommend switching to from an open waterer to HN's in extreme weather(hot or cold)...it does take some times for them to 'learn' how to use the nipples, some catch on fast while others can take a week or more to really 'get it'.
I always offer an open waterer late in the day to make sure they get enough water to digest properly before going to roost during the 'training' period.

ETA: HN's are the best for freezing climes:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-heated-waterer-with-horizontal-nipples.67256/

They can also be put into almost any vessel(bottle) is care is used to install:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/gallery/albums/aarts-small-water-bottles-and-holder.7427546/

Nice setup!

 

[Beer can]

I have no preference cause I've only used the vertical nipples. Have a ten gal container in one coop and a five gal in another. It's nice cause you hardly ever have to fill them compared to open waterers.
I've had no issues, work fine.
And as far as them not getting enough water on hot days, lol, seems like they would be right there trying to drink, hoping those 'drips' are enough to sustain them...lol.
They don't just 'drip', when the chicken drinks from them the water comes out pretty good.

 

[aart]

I have no preference cause I've only used the vertical nipples.
They don't just 'drip', when the chicken drinks from them the water comes out pretty good.

One you try HN's you'll never go back....much easier to keep thawed in harsh winters like yours.

Yes, they can make a heck of a mess.

 

[cwelte]

I live in central VA and it can get pretty cold overnight in winter (it usually can hit a night or two of single digits), but the days usually warm up pretty nicely.

That said, had anyone tried heat tape (gutter heaters) to keep lines from freezing in the winter?

As for the size of my coop - I read that you want 2-3 sq. ft. per bird, and at 6 birds, 16sq. ft = about 2.6 sq.ft. per bird. More room would definitely be better, but then we're not counting that all our girls will turn out to be hens & keeping roosters is not an option for us. They're going to have near 100% access to a 56 sq.ft. run that is 100% inclosed. I plan on over-engineering the perimeter to keep out predators. My design is loosely based (and scaled) on my neighbor's coop who has 13 birds no issues. Once the birds get acclimated, we have 1.5 acres that they'll have access to as well.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

The coop needs to be 4 sq. ft. per bird IF they have outside access. 2-3 is way too small for large fowl or even small for bantams.

 

[cwelte]

The coop needs to be 4 sq. ft. per bird IF they have outside access. 2-3 is way too small for large fowl or even small for bantams.

I'm not trying to highjack the intent of this tread, but I'm going off what I've read (in books, not the Internet) and by my neighbor's advice. He has raised chickens for well over 10 years and his coop is only 4' x 8' with 13 birds. None of his birds fight. They all lay (except for his rooster), all look healthy, and "sing" constantly. (He raises mostly reds and orps.) I have to believe that what I have is adequate. If I see my birds getting stressed out, I'll reduce the flock size.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

2-3 sqft is fine. More run space is always better but if the coop is only used to roost at night and lay eggs they don't need much space. The caveat to that is they won't be "cooped" in cold months or if your on vacation. They will need to have access to the run.

I use a "small" coop and for our winters up North park the coop in front of a lean to structure that is covered sides with tarps or plastic excepting open doorway. Essentially their small summer coop is extended into a huge winter coop days and they roost, are locked in the actual coop at night.

 

[cwelte]

Yup- plan is to not lock them up unless absolutely necessary. Maybe only a few days here and there in the winter months. We have plenty of neighborhood help for IF we ever get to go on vacation.

Back on topic- I think I'm leaning more towards cups at this stage, but the best part is that this process can evolve and I can always try other things.

Thanks everyone!

 

[bruceha2000]

You could, GASP!, get a couple of cups and a couple of horizontals and the chickens can choose to use the ones they like best. Which might be BOTH! And if that is the case, they will have the "less likely to freeze" horizontals for the colder parts of winter.