Old and Rare Breeds

This was also said to us when we went to see the Grand Canyon. There was rain forecast for that day and it was heavily clouded as we drove there from the hotel. When we got there the clouds had broke and only a few remained. We even got to see what look like a thin small piece of cloud come up the side of the canyon wall.
That's a beautiful sight.
I love being in the mountains when wisps of clouds climb over and fly away.

I am hoping someone on this thread can suggest ways I can improve my hatch rate.

I am not worried about fertility (2:85 failed to develop, and those 2 eggs were outside overnight.)

After tinkering with the temp/ventilation/humidity and adding a daily cool-down period, I got my hatch rate from 0 to 62.5%. I have begun storing eggs in a wine fridge at 55 degrees prior to incubation, but those haven't had time to hatch yet. On another Internet discussion forum, I read that ~60% was the best hatch rate any Dorking owner was getting.

People in my geographic area, using the same brand of feed, are getting excellent hatches.

I plan to save more birds this year to do more test pairings to see if I can identify individual birds or pairs with more vigorous embryos/better hatchability.

Any and all suggestions are welcome. I appreciate your help.
Best wishes,
Angela

IMO, the wine cooler is a great idea.
I can't see much candling and I don't trust many hygrometers so I weigh for humidity and chart weights. They should lose 0.65% each day.
I also don't trust a lot of thermometers. I love this one. http://thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt301wa.html
My hatch rate rose dramatically when I started using it.
You said you aren't worried about fertility so you must not have any inbreeding going on.
 
Angela, I can think of some things to try. You have probably already tried them.

One is a breeder ration designed for the purpose. I realize that a lot of feed is fine, but I saw a better hatch rate and bigger chicks with it. It was a measurable improvement. I am guessing that they are getting some fresh greens everyday.
Since it sounds like you are trying now, so I wouldn't change the feeds, but give them a little Calf Manna.

I saw better rates with the eggs upright.

Other than that I really do not know. Fertility is not your issue.
 
Thank you ChickenCanoe, I think the wine cooler is a great idea for eggs and wine!!

I have used 7 thermometers, 4 hygrometers, and lots of candling (to judge approximate air cell size.) I thought weighing eggs to chart their weight loss was too fussy, and when I got the air cells to about the right size, hatching improved noticeably. The most dramatic improvement came after adding the daily cool-down period.

I have opened every failed-to-hatch egg to date, with quitters noted at all stages. However, as my hatch rate improves, the quitters are generally more fully developed.

Gjensen, I have looked for breeder rations, but haven't found any in the 4 local feed stores. I do feed a locally ground chicken ration that has no soy or gmo grains, but does have fish meal and organically sourced vitamins and minerals. I have been adding the recommended 2 Tbsp of Calf Manna per adult bird daily since October. I have tried dribbling a teaspoon or so per bird of cod liver or wheat germ oils, red cell, grain-free dog or cat kibble, all without noted effect.

They get either fresh greens or a handful of alfalfa pellets about every other day. (On the days I feed. On the days my husband feeds, no greens are given.) I can certainly try sprouting oats or something similar, hadn't thought of that.

I have been hatching with the eggs upright all along.

Thank you!
 
..
One is a breeder ration designed for the purpose. I realize that a lot of feed is fine, but I saw a better hatch rate and bigger chicks with it. It was a measurable improvement. I am guessing that they are getting some fresh greens everyday.
Since it sounds like you are trying now, so I wouldn't change the feeds, but give them a little Calf Manna.
.
..
The breeder ration is recommended by most experienced breeders.
Grower feed and layer feed is basically adequate nutrition to raise up layers and broiler or to produce eggs but inadequate for optimal fertility.

Thank you ChickenCanoe, I think the wine cooler is a great idea for eggs and wine!!

I have used 7 thermometers, 4 hygrometers, and lots of candling (to judge approximate air cell size.) I thought weighing eggs to chart their weight loss was too fussy, and when I got the air cells to about the right size, hatching improved noticeably. The most dramatic improvement came after adding the daily cool-down period.

I have opened every failed-to-hatch egg to date, with quitters noted at all stages. However, as my hatch rate improves, the quitters are generally more fully developed.

Gjensen, I have looked for breeder rations, but haven't found any in the 4 local feed stores. I do feed a locally ground chicken ration that has no soy or gmo grains, but does have fish meal and organically sourced vitamins and minerals. I have been adding the recommended 2 Tbsp of Calf Manna per adult bird daily since October. I have tried dribbling a teaspoon or so per bird of cod liver or wheat germ oils, red cell, grain-free dog or cat kibble, all without noted effect.

They get either fresh greens or a handful of alfalfa pellets about every other day. (On the days I feed. On the days my husband feeds, no greens are given.) I can certainly try sprouting oats or something similar, hadn't thought of that.

I have been hatching with the eggs upright all along.

Thank you!
I can't tell you how many thermometers and hygrometers I went through till I started researching ones with a guaranteed accuracy of less than ~±1°F. I realized if the accuracy was say, ~±2 or 3°F I could be way off for incubating and barring spending a hundred bucks, I found the one cited in my last post.

The fishmeal feed could be a good idea.
I'm currently feeding a 16% organic grower (no gmo) and add fishmeal for growing birds, molters and breeders.
A 10:1 ratio gives me a 20% ration. Less for breeders.

The main reason I started weighing is because some of the eggs are so dark, I can't see the air cell. At least not clear enough to accurately determine its size.

All the people that raise fodder recommend barley, sometimes BOSS, peas or wheat. Most say they don't have good luck with oats.
 
After tinkering with the temp/ventilation/humidity and adding a daily cool-down period, I got my hatch rate from 0 to 62.5%.
Angela, can you give me details on what you did, above? I want to see how it compares with what @ronott1 does with my Dorking eggs.

You already know this, but I thought that I would mention to others that I am having similar hatching issues with my Dorkings. So, I'd like to hear possible causes & solutions. I know diet is not the problem, in my case. My Delawares are hatching well. I fed Calf Manna & fish meal in years past and they did not make a difference. I am feeding a breeder ration.
 
You guys are doing all of the right things. That means it is the birds. Other than trying a little later into the season, I do not know if there is anymore that you can do.
You guys are smart people and are not new to this. I do not know Dorkings well enough to even try to think of a suggestion. I have heard a lot of people saying the same things about a lot of breeds this year. Maybe I am just noticing it more.
 
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My hatch rate this year has been in the 90 percentile. However, due to the surgery and the fluctuation of temps, I lost a good number of chicks in the 6 weeks range because of the cold. I can't complain though because I have rarely been able to even go out to the cock yard and hen house. If it weren't for my youngest son they'd all be dead. We have some rather large hatches planned the next 6 weeks and that will make up for any losses. I just hate hatching them so late. I really prefer Jan and Feb hatches. The chicks seem to grow better for me. Besides, chicks from those hatches are ready for the fall shows. These hatching now won't be ready until Jan or Feb of next year.
 

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